Metal Halide/Power Compact DIY - N00b Needs Help - Aquarium Advice

noteworthy · 10-12-2005, 10:10 PM

Hey!

I really want to upgrade my lighting from my 40w [acronym:fba8eeb33e="Normal Output Fluorescents"]NO[/acronym:fba8eeb33e] on my 55 [acronym:fba8eeb33e="Fish only with live rock"]fowlr[/acronym:fba8eeb33e]. I'm going to build a canopy to put over my tank and I'm looking into [acronym:fba8eeb33e="Do it yourself"]DIY[/acronym:fba8eeb33e] metal halide because I refuse to pay $$$ for something that could be done myself.

I would like to keep an anemone in the future about half a year down the road when my tank settles more. If my starfish ever passes on I can add corals.

I know I need a ballast and I looking for something cheap with lots of wattage. I found a previous post that mentioned this one:
http://prolighting.com/sousm400q-k.html

I also need a bulb. How is this?
http://prolighting.com/mh400-u.html

The aluminum guard I'm not sure what I need exactly. Also would I be better off with the tube shaped lights. I know [acronym:fba8eeb33e="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:fba8eeb33e] is also better because of the more focused light it penetrates the water better. I would like to add moon light leds with a cheap 30 dollar kit.

What would you guys recommend? I've never really build lights but I did replace a ballast on my mom's 10 gallon tank that went out.

As for cooling I am very familiar with computers but not so much with using A/C. Would I have to buy a converter and hook a couple of 80 or 120mm fans to the canopy to expel light?

On my canopy I'm thinking 15 inches tall or so.

Please help a noob.

Brenden · 10-12-2005, 10:37 PM

I bought my [acronym:a56bf64460="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:a56bf64460] retro kits and cooling fan kits from captivereefs.com. They very easy to wire etc. If you want to do the fans yourself all you need is a transformer with the correct volt/amps. The fan kits are nice because they have a built in thermometer and do not run constantly. I bought my moon light kit from ledworx on ebay. Also very easy all you need is soldering iron and solder. I ripped a 1"piece of the low gauge [acronym:a56bf64460="Plastic pipe"]pvc[/acronym:a56bf64460] down the middle to make my moonlights. Drilled the holes small and the LEDs just pressure fit in.

**BillyZ** · 10-13-2005, 09:13 AM

couple quick questions and comments.

Is your canopy going to rest on top of the tank or will it be suspended, like a big pendent light? If you'll be suspending it you'll want to consider the weight of the materials used but you wont have to worry as much about heat. If it will rest on the tank, you don't need to worry as much about weight, but you'll need to do more to keep it cool.

There are a number of [acronym:18f393929f="Activated Carbon"]AC[/acronym:18f393929f] driven fans, check radio shack. I bought an 4" box fan the same style as you would see in a [acronym:18f393929f="Power compact fluorescent"]PC[/acronym:18f393929f] case, at radio shack for 9 or 10 dollars IIRC. Just used an old appliance cord, put a fuse in line and it was all set.

(also, going to move this to the [acronym:18f393929f="Do it yourself"]DIY[/acronym:18f393929f] forum for proper placement and better exposure)

noteworthy · 10-13-2005, 06:08 PM

Thank you for moving my thread. I wasn't aware of the other forum subject.

Am I right thinking one bulb is enough in the center? On 5 tap it shows multiple wattages supported. Does that mean I should run two 200w bulbs from the same ballast or just one 400 watt?

My canopy will rest on top of the tank. So I will need to get an [acronym:6e44d0ee2a="Alternating Current"]AC[/acronym:6e44d0ee2a] fan or wire one in from captive reefs.

I see some retro kits on captive reefs for 240. From what i see I can have the same thing for about 100 if I buy it all seperate and wire it together.

greenmaji · 10-13-2005, 08:45 PM

Ive asked the same question.. 3 foot is the maximum for a [acronym:e352b405ec="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:e352b405ec] bulb to cover.. so youll need two for your 55..
the 5 tap ballasts should show multiple voltages.. magnetic ballasts are only designed to be used with one bulb. There are some electronics that are designed for multiple bulbs though..
from my reaserch.. depending on what type of bulb you use.. the ballasts will run you minium around ~$120 for two.. If you want to buy prefab. reflectors.. the best price ive seen on those is $60 for two (I think these can be DIYed by the way).... then the bulbs.. the prices run the gammit performance costs $$ (then again the wrong spectrium can cost $ as well)
Im not positive on how long [acronym:e352b405ec="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:e352b405ec] bulbs last for reef use, Ive gotten multiple answers on that question making this desision tough for me (wether or not to do [acronym:e352b405ec="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:e352b405ec]). If they last on average 3 years say, then the project would be worth ALOT more to me..
I hope this helps..
I would say you would be fine with a pair of 175watt bulbs for clams and [acronym:e352b405ec="Small Polyped Stoney"]sps[/acronym:e352b405ec]... maybe some [acronym:e352b405ec="Large polyped Scleractinian (stoney) coral"]LPS[/acronym:e352b405ec] on the bottom.. I would shade mushrooms and low light softies with this setup.. just my oppinon though.

noteworthy · 10-13-2005, 09:55 PM

Well would you guys think of Power Compact as a better option? I really want to keep the costs down but putting in two bulbs and two ballasts really jack up the price.

I want to keep anemones and corals down the road. I've always read you should have [acronym:9566a9444c="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:9566a9444c] though for anemones.

greenmaji · 10-13-2005, 10:01 PM

If your tank is taller then 20 inches then Id be willing to say yes.. [acronym:a53ee57df8="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:a53ee57df8] would be one of your only options.. T-5 [acronym:a53ee57df8="High Output Florecents"]HO[/acronym:a53ee57df8]'s and or [acronym:a53ee57df8="Power compact fluorescent"]PC[/acronym:a53ee57df8] would be an option.. but depending on [acronym:a53ee57df8="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:a53ee57df8] usefull lifespan they might be more expensive long term..
what coarls are you intrested in? [acronym:a53ee57df8="Small Polyped Stoney"]SPS[/acronym:a53ee57df8]? [acronym:a53ee57df8="Large polyped Scleractinian (stoney) coral"]LPS[/acronym:a53ee57df8]? Soft? mixed?

greenmaji · 10-13-2005, 10:04 PM

In other words.. Im asking a question in your question.. sorry.. a bit of a hijack.

What is the average usefull lifespan of [acronym:d0217346e9="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:d0217346e9] bulbs for reef use?..
Maybe [acronym:d0217346e9="Saltwater"]SW[/acronym:d0217346e9] general discussion would get this answered faster..?

noteworthy · 10-13-2005, 10:12 PM

I like the [acronym:ee1a9b0df4="Large polyped Scleractinian (stoney) coral"]LPS[/acronym:ee1a9b0df4] and soft corals.

The water depth in my tank is 17-18" but suspending it 7 inches off the water would have some more effect on it I suppose?

greenmaji · 10-13-2005, 10:31 PM

that will be a tough mix..

good luck.

You wont need to suspend T-5 [acronym:abcd769536="High Output Florecents"]HO[/acronym:abcd769536]'s or [acronym:abcd769536="Power compact fluorescent"]PC[/acronym:abcd769536]'s near that far off the surfase of your water.. you could put them in a [acronym:abcd769536="Do it yourself"]DIY[/acronym:abcd769536] striplight with some fans and be fine (a couple of inches from the surfase tops, most likely less)

10-12-2005, 10:10 PM	#1
noteworthy Aquarium Advice Freak Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Texas Posts: 359 Images: 14	Metal Halide/Power Compact DIY - N00b Needs Help Hey! I really want to upgrade my lighting from my 40w [acronym:fba8eeb33e="Normal Output Fluorescents"]NO[/acronym:fba8eeb33e] on my 55 [acronym:fba8eeb33e="Fish only with live rock"]fowlr[/acronym:fba8eeb33e]. I'm going to build a canopy to put over my tank and I'm looking into [acronym:fba8eeb33e="Do it yourself"]DIY[/acronym:fba8eeb33e] metal halide because I refuse to pay $$$ for something that could be done myself. I would like to keep an anemone in the future about half a year down the road when my tank settles more. If my starfish ever passes on I can add corals. I know I need a ballast and I looking for something cheap with lots of wattage. I found a previous post that mentioned this one: http://prolighting.com/sousm400q-k.html I also need a bulb. How is this? http://prolighting.com/mh400-u.html The aluminum guard I'm not sure what I need exactly. Also would I be better off with the tube shaped lights. I know [acronym:fba8eeb33e="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:fba8eeb33e] is also better because of the more focused light it penetrates the water better. I would like to add moon light leds with a cheap 30 dollar kit. What would you guys recommend? I've never really build lights but I did replace a ballast on my mom's 10 gallon tank that went out. As for cooling I am very familiar with computers but not so much with using A/C. Would I have to buy a converter and hook a couple of 80 or 120mm fans to the canopy to expel light? On my canopy I'm thinking 15 inches tall or so. Please help a noob.

10-12-2005, 10:37 PM	#2
Brenden Aquarium Advice Addict Join Date: May 2005 Location: Piedmont, NC Posts: 3,878 Images: 32	I bought my [acronym:a56bf64460="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:a56bf64460] retro kits and cooling fan kits from captivereefs.com. They very easy to wire etc. If you want to do the fans yourself all you need is a transformer with the correct volt/amps. The fan kits are nice because they have a built in thermometer and do not run constantly. I bought my moon light kit from ledworx on ebay. Also very easy all you need is soldering iron and solder. I ripped a 1"piece of the low gauge [acronym:a56bf64460="Plastic pipe"]pvc[/acronym:a56bf64460] down the middle to make my moonlights. Drilled the holes small and the LEDs just pressure fit in. __________________ The fact that no one understands you doesn't make you an artist. If guns kill people...Spoons make Michael Moore fat.

10-13-2005, 09:13 AM	#3
BillyZ Aquarium Advice Addict Community Moderator Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Western NY Posts: 3,623 Images: 6	couple quick questions and comments. Is your canopy going to rest on top of the tank or will it be suspended, like a big pendent light? If you'll be suspending it you'll want to consider the weight of the materials used but you wont have to worry as much about heat. If it will rest on the tank, you don't need to worry as much about weight, but you'll need to do more to keep it cool. There are a number of [acronym:18f393929f="Activated Carbon"]AC[/acronym:18f393929f] driven fans, check radio shack. I bought an 4" box fan the same style as you would see in a [acronym:18f393929f="Power compact fluorescent"]PC[/acronym:18f393929f] case, at radio shack for 9 or 10 dollars IIRC. Just used an old appliance cord, put a fuse in line and it was all set. (also, going to move this to the [acronym:18f393929f="Do it yourself"]DIY[/acronym:18f393929f] forum for proper placement and better exposure) __________________ Acronyms and Abbreviations

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10-13-2005, 06:08 PM	#4
noteworthy Aquarium Advice Freak Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Texas Posts: 359 Images: 14	Thank you for moving my thread. I wasn't aware of the other forum subject. Am I right thinking one bulb is enough in the center? On 5 tap it shows multiple wattages supported. Does that mean I should run two 200w bulbs from the same ballast or just one 400 watt? My canopy will rest on top of the tank. So I will need to get an [acronym:6e44d0ee2a="Alternating Current"]AC[/acronym:6e44d0ee2a] fan or wire one in from captive reefs. I see some retro kits on captive reefs for 240. From what i see I can have the same thing for about 100 if I buy it all seperate and wire it together.

10-13-2005, 08:45 PM	#5
greenmaji Aquarium Advice Addict Join Date: May 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 5,937	Ive asked the same question.. 3 foot is the maximum for a [acronym:e352b405ec="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:e352b405ec] bulb to cover.. so youll need two for your 55.. the 5 tap ballasts should show multiple voltages.. magnetic ballasts are only designed to be used with one bulb. There are some electronics that are designed for multiple bulbs though.. from my reaserch.. depending on what type of bulb you use.. the ballasts will run you minium around ~$120 for two.. If you want to buy prefab. reflectors.. the best price ive seen on those is $60 for two (I think these can be DIYed by the way).... then the bulbs.. the prices run the gammit performance costs $$ (then again the wrong spectrium can cost $ as well) Im not positive on how long [acronym:e352b405ec="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:e352b405ec] bulbs last for reef use, Ive gotten multiple answers on that question making this desision tough for me (wether or not to do [acronym:e352b405ec="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:e352b405ec]). If they last on average 3 years say, then the project would be worth ALOT more to me.. I hope this helps.. I would say you would be fine with a pair of 175watt bulbs for clams and [acronym:e352b405ec="Small Polyped Stoney"]sps[/acronym:e352b405ec]... maybe some [acronym:e352b405ec="Large polyped Scleractinian (stoney) coral"]LPS[/acronym:e352b405ec] on the bottom.. I would shade mushrooms and low light softies with this setup.. just my oppinon though.

10-13-2005, 09:55 PM	#6
noteworthy Aquarium Advice Freak Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Texas Posts: 359 Images: 14	Well would you guys think of Power Compact as a better option? I really want to keep the costs down but putting in two bulbs and two ballasts really jack up the price. I want to keep anemones and corals down the road. I've always read you should have [acronym:9566a9444c="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:9566a9444c] though for anemones.

10-13-2005, 10:01 PM	#7
greenmaji Aquarium Advice Addict Join Date: May 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 5,937	If your tank is taller then 20 inches then Id be willing to say yes.. [acronym:a53ee57df8="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:a53ee57df8] would be one of your only options.. T-5 [acronym:a53ee57df8="High Output Florecents"]HO[/acronym:a53ee57df8]'s and or [acronym:a53ee57df8="Power compact fluorescent"]PC[/acronym:a53ee57df8] would be an option.. but depending on [acronym:a53ee57df8="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:a53ee57df8] usefull lifespan they might be more expensive long term.. what coarls are you intrested in? [acronym:a53ee57df8="Small Polyped Stoney"]SPS[/acronym:a53ee57df8]? [acronym:a53ee57df8="Large polyped Scleractinian (stoney) coral"]LPS[/acronym:a53ee57df8]? Soft? mixed?

10-13-2005, 10:04 PM	#8
greenmaji Aquarium Advice Addict Join Date: May 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 5,937	In other words.. Im asking a question in your question.. sorry.. a bit of a hijack. What is the average usefull lifespan of [acronym:d0217346e9="Metal halide light"]MH[/acronym:d0217346e9] bulbs for reef use?.. Maybe [acronym:d0217346e9="Saltwater"]SW[/acronym:d0217346e9] general discussion would get this answered faster..?

10-13-2005, 10:12 PM	#9
noteworthy Aquarium Advice Freak Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Texas Posts: 359 Images: 14	I like the [acronym:ee1a9b0df4="Large polyped Scleractinian (stoney) coral"]LPS[/acronym:ee1a9b0df4] and soft corals. The water depth in my tank is 17-18" but suspending it 7 inches off the water would have some more effect on it I suppose?

10-13-2005, 10:31 PM	#10
greenmaji Aquarium Advice Addict Join Date: May 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 5,937	that will be a tough mix.. good luck. You wont need to suspend T-5 [acronym:abcd769536="High Output Florecents"]HO[/acronym:abcd769536]'s or [acronym:abcd769536="Power compact fluorescent"]PC[/acronym:abcd769536]'s near that far off the surfase of your water.. you could put them in a [acronym:abcd769536="Do it yourself"]DIY[/acronym:abcd769536] striplight with some fans and be fine (a couple of inches from the surfase tops, most likely less)