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Old 12-20-2010, 03:40 PM   #11
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I really like the idea of the locked barb fitting. I think I've used other items that are similar. I found a local saltwater shop that has bulk heads in stock so I'm going to see what they have after work.
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Old 12-21-2010, 10:26 AM   #12
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I picked up a couple bulkheads but didn't like the way they worked. They fit the tank great but all they had were slip on fittings for the inside of the tank. I thought about just gluing in PVC pipe to the fittings since they can still be taken out by removing the bulkhead but couldn't find any PVC pipe that fit well into the smaller 3/4" bulkhead. I'm trying another place today for different bulks.

Do you guys just use Schedule 40 PVC piping for the plumbing? I read somewhere someone used schedule 26 since it has a thinner wall and larger inner diameter so did some reading. Here's what I came up with for PVC piping sizes. Looks like they all have the same OD, the wall thickness and inner diameter change. If I can find schedule 21 or 26 locally that would be the best to use right? I'm going to use a mix of PVC and flexible hose.

PVC Schedule 80
3/4" Nom - 1.05" OD / 0.724" ID
1" Nom - 1.315" OD / 0.935" ID

PVC Schedule 40
3/4" Nom - 1.05" OD / 0.81" ID
1" Nom - 1.315" OD / 1.033" ID

PVC SDR Schedule 21 (can handle 200psi @ 73.4F)
3/4" Nom - 1.05" OD / 0.91" ID
1" Nom - 1.315" OD / 1.169" ID

PVC SDR Schedule 26 (can handle 160psi @ 73.4F)
1" Nom - 1.315" OD / 1.175" ID
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:13 PM   #13
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You can convert a slip bulkhead to thread by gluing on a schedule 40 threaded coupler to the slip joint ... but if you can find threaded bulkhead, it would be cheaper (and less work.)

I would not disconnect the bulkhead too many times for cleaning. After a while the gasket may wear out & start to leak ... best to leave the bulkheads alone for as long as possible.

I can't find the thinner wall pipes locally, but you can use any of the pipes as long as the internal diameter is large enough. <I normally oversize drain pipes (by 1/2" or more) for safety in case of debris, so a fraction of an inch in the ID is not a concern.> Using thinner pipes is better looking (IMO), but pipes are mostly hidden ... so most people just use the cheapest (which is schedule 40).
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Old 12-22-2010, 12:17 AM   #14
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I think i have it figured out for the most part. I will be gluing in the adapter to the bulks so I can remove the stand pipe and return line in the overflow. Main reason i didn't want to do that was because once those fittings are glued in place the bulkhead can't be removed without hacking it apart.

Is it ok to use a flexible hose (kind of like what the hose on a shop vac looks like) attached right to the drain bulk head to direct water from the bulk head to the sump? Would that restrict the flow? It would clamp on the outside so i'm guessing it's probably close to 1.5" inside diameter?
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Old 12-22-2010, 09:29 AM   #15
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that will work fine.
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:38 AM   #16
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Ok I did some drawings to show exactly what I have. I still need to get the slip on threaded adapters so I can remove the standpipe and return line inside the overflow but that's easy. Here are the couple questions I have remaining.

- Is the standpipe overflow at a good height?
- What kind of adapter can be used on a male loc-line threaded adapter to get it to attach to 3/4" PVC? The elbow shown has a female threaded output so that I can make an adapter that I can take out. I have a loc-line adapter then a Y piece and will have two loc-line outputs.
- How does the ball valve assembly look? It's a little odd with the 1" down to 3/4" reducer but that was the best way I could find that allowed a true 3/4" vinyl tube to be adapted to 3/4" PVC.
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:06 AM   #17
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you are never going to remove the standpipe to clean it.
i would put that elbow as high as possible. you don't want water coming over the surface skimmer and crashing down and making noise like that.

locline makes a threaded adapter...i guess this is the one you are using-
Loc-Line - 3/4" NPT Connector
you can find a 3/4" threaded to slip fitting at HD, and then just glue a piece of pipe in the elbow and attach that way.

btw, i don't think you need the ball valve either. all you have to do is shut down your pump to stop water from coming down. you'll never use that valve.

are you dead set on that MTC skimmer? i would rather use an octopus with a sicce pump. they use much less energy and pull more air. i have also heard good things about the bubble blaster pumps.
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:22 AM   #18
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That is what the loc-line adapter looks like that I have but I'm thinking I might have the 1/2" version? I don't think the threaded end is 1". It's closer to 3/4" as it almost fits into the 3/4" PVC I have. I did find an adapter at Lowe's and started to thread it in to the loc-line adapter but it only made it 2-3 threads and started binding. I figured it wasn't the same thread.

The only reason I put the ball valve in was so that I had a way of reducing return water from the Mag 9.5 if need be? The drain is capable of 600gph correct? The Mag 9.5 should be pushing that much plus some?

As for the MTC skimmer, no I'm not dead set on it but it's what I got with the tank and my only option for the time being. I wouldn't be against getting rid of it in favor for something else if it doesn't do the job well.
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:28 AM   #19
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are you sure you didn't get this one?
Loc-Line - 3/4" BSPT* Connector


and your right...i got it backwards and was commenting as if it was on the drain pipe. DOH!

and lastly, yes, if you already have that skimmer, don't buy another one unless necessary.
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:31 AM   #20
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That could be the one I have. I couldn't say. I got it from the LFS cheap. It was just in his random parts and pieces bin so I snagged it. I wouldn't mind having some more of the actual loc-line tubing anyhow so maybe I'll try and find a new adapter to be sure it's correct. The part I have is black if that makes any difference.
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