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Old 12-19-2010, 09:16 PM   #1
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Need some input on DIY plumbing

I am finally ready to do some plumbing but want to get a game plan first.

The tank is a 65g with an overflow built in but the person I got it from didn't have the bulkheads that go on the bottom piece of glass. There are (2) holes. One is a 1.76" which seems to be for a 1" bulk head and the other is a 1.48" which seems to be for a 3/4" bulk head. I was told the 1" bulk head should be good for about 600gph correct?

My question is, can I get the plumbing parts from Lowe's for this setup? Mainly something to use for bulkheads? I am using an MTC HSA-250 skimmer that will be sitting in a 20g breeder tank I'm adding baffles to. I'd like to run hard lines to as much as possible. I have a Mag 7 for the return pump which should be able to do around 425gph with the 48" head height. Should I try and get closer to 600gph? I have a Mag 9.5 but was told that would be best used on the skimmer. I'd like to go ahead and make one of the Durso standpipes. Those look like a nice edition to have.

I'd also like to maybe have the exit of the return line in the top of the tank have 2 outputs? I think that should be pretty easy but it should make for some better circulation in the tank?

Any and all suggestions and opinions are welcome! I'm very new to all this and trying to absorb as much info as possible. I'll most like have some basic drawings tomorrow sketched up of what I plan on doing that I can post to make things a bit clearer.
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:57 PM   #2
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a 1.5" bulkhead is about 700 gph i thought.
if that's the case, then you are going to be draining 400 gph or so.

you can get all of the 1" stuff from lowes, but you might have a little trouble finding some of the 3/4" 90s and 45s.
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:00 PM   #3
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The 1.75" hole will fit a 1.5" bulk head?
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_X View Post
a 1.5" bulkhead is about 700 gph i thought.
if that's the case, then you are going to be draining 400 gph or so.

you can get all of the 1" stuff from lowes, but you might have a little trouble finding some of the 3/4" 90s and 45s.
Shouldn't have any problems with the 90's and 45's at Lowe's or Home Depot.
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:27 AM   #5
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Ok guys I've read a little more into it. Still need some input on what I can use for bulkheads though.

The MTC recommends a SEN 700 pump to run the HSA-250 skimmer. That's rated for 700gph so I think I'm just going to use my Mag 7 to drive that. Which means I can use my Mag 9.5 for the return pump. I will use a ball valve on the Mag 9.5 to control the flow.

I've attached how my sump will be setup. would you guys recommend using vinyl tubing from Lowe's or would you make it rigid PVC?
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:51 PM   #6
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vinyl tubing (not clear) will have less friction and less head loss than hard piping, due to all the elbows that are needed. also, if you want to move stuff around, you can easily with flexible pipe.
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:57 PM   #7
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I do like the idea of using something flexible.

For the plumbing that would be coming from the tank and draining into the sump, can the tubing go all the way to the bottom of the sump tank or should it be cut short above water level?

It looks like some people are making DIY bulkheads using male and female PVS adapters and putting a rubber gasket in between. How reliable is that?
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:59 PM   #8
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i would have the tubing go below the water level, or it's gonna sound like niagra falls!

no DIY bulkheads!

here. if you can't find them locally:
Bulkheads - Glass-Holes.com dope aquarium stuff

btw, hot tub and pond supply stores usually have them.
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Old 12-20-2010, 02:08 PM   #9
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Thanks! When they mention "slip" what is that for? Is it meant for something to be glued into place? I think I'd go with a threaded fitting even if I'm going to use flexible tubing.
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Old 12-20-2010, 03:12 PM   #10
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Yes, "slip" are for glue-up jobs. Use threaded parts wherever you can so you can take them apart for cleaning.

You can find a barbed to thread fitting to connect flex hoses to threaded fittings. I have also seen locked barbed fitting ... It has a threaded cover over the barbed part to lock everything in place so the flex hose can't come off even if you pull on it.
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