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Old 05-07-2003, 09:55 PM   #41
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I will PM anenomeman, so he can answer your questions. Sorry for the lack of responces, I will pm LoganJ also, he knows about diy lighting.
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Old 05-07-2003, 10:02 PM   #42
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The photocell has three different plugs that come with it. One black, one green, and one clear. Use the black one. I'm not sure how Mark did his, but I think I would screw the mounting posts into an outdoor conduit box and come out of that with a cord...if you have enough room to do that. You don't want any chance of any uninsulated/loose wires getting wet.
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Old 05-07-2003, 10:07 PM   #43
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I believe the lights that Mark got were the shop lights. They do not have a photocell on them.....
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Old 05-07-2003, 10:46 PM   #44
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Electrobes,
This is what I did. I drilled some small holes in the white part in front of the ballast and along the top to allow air to be drawn in thru the top holes, thru the holes in the white part (in the fixture behind the socket) and up thru the fan. Don't know if it needs it or not since the bulb is the big heat generator IMO. The ballast may put out some heat, don't know since I mitigated it pretty well.

For the light detector I used some highly technical electrical tape and covered it up! Since the detector sees dark all the time, whenever the power is on the light is on. I wired both lights to the same plug and plugged it into a timer.

Putting them 90 degrees to the way I have them is smart. Having them my way makes them protrude too deep into the tank necessitating a lower water level to keep water from touching the lense. This is not a problem for a 'fuge but I now have them over a 55 and may have to do something similar to what you describe. Post a pic when you get it done.

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Old 05-07-2003, 10:49 PM   #45
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Quote:
I believe the lights that Mark got were the shop lights
Timbo, I have the outdoor lights.
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Old 05-07-2003, 10:54 PM   #46
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Quote:
I would screw the mounting posts into an outdoor conduit box and come out of that with a cord...if you have enough room to do that. You don't want any chance of any uninsulated/loose wires getting wet
Getting it wet wasn't a concern for me. If it drops in the tank it's a disaster with or without the conduit fittings. I removed the mount (see my pics a few posts back) and ran the wires out of a ballast vent hole.
I forgot to mention, before drilling the vent holes for the ballast be sure to remove (or at lest loosen and pull away) the ballast assembly so you can locate the holes easier.

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Old 05-07-2003, 11:21 PM   #47
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okay cool, tell me your opinion on this... I decided on one of these lights.. to be mounted on a hood, because I have a freshwater tank. I figure the 65 watts with the 6,825 lumens is enough... but I am not sure. If I have a pretty decently planted tank.. should I use two of these lights in the way you have them, or have one light in the center, but rotated so it needs the hood to lay on???? Thank a bunch!!!
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Old 05-07-2003, 11:29 PM   #48
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I guess where you got them they look the same...Here, it either looks like a street light or the ones you have except for they do not have a PhotoCell, they have an on/off switch. That is why I thought you had the shop lights.
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Old 05-08-2003, 12:37 PM   #49
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Quote:
I figure the 65 watts with the 6,825 lumens is enough... but I am not sure. If I have a pretty decently planted tank.. should I use two of these lights in the way you have them, or have one light in the center, but rotated so it needs the hood to lay on?
If it were me, I would use two of these lights. I would not use a hood or glass tops. I would use a spacer to raise the lights about 3/4" or so so the lense will not touch the water. You may have to experiment a little to get a satisfactory set up. That's the thing with DIY, it takes a little tweaking to get it right. If the lights fit end to end then go ahead and arrange them that way.
Modifying the lights the way I did was not a no-brainer. There are some mods which aren't immediately obvious from the pictures. I removed the metal reflector and put mylar (shiny) tape on the inside to make a new reflective surface and facilitate having a hole in the top for the fan. Without the metal reflector the socket/ballast assembly isn't very solid and will allow the bulb to sag. The bulb clip they give you is junk. One broke and the other doesn't do much. Here's what I did. I took the metal reflector and cut off 2 or 3" (at the ballast end) with a Dremmel cut-off wheel. I used that partial reflector piece to wedge under/around the ballast housing the way it was in the original configuration before I took it out. Then I drilled a hole in the middle of the metal piece to screw it to (through) the top to hold it secure. This made the ballast housing stay put.
Does all that make sense?

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Old 05-08-2003, 12:59 PM   #50
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Okay cool,
hehe you should see my parents and fiance! They are giving me the most scared looks, they think either my fish will be ultra cooked, or will have the worst case of skin cancer ever. I like the spacer idea, I was on the prowl of wondering how to make the hood AND lights fit nicely on the top without the lights too near the water and without cutting out the lights reaching the tank at full blast. So for my 29G I should use two lights? Man, the cool thing about DIY is that one finds interesting ways to put things together, but better redesign the top with two lights... but I had an interesting idea...

I was thinking of using almost like bars or sticks of acrylic, making what would look like a skeleton of a hood. It would hold the lights in place as Mark has it on his tank. the way for the actual skeleton to hold onto the tank would be something like a wedge (like two fingers spaced out) on each corner. The tanks edge would fit between each of these "fingers", supporting the rest of the skeletal structure.

Anyways dunno if its already been thought up of, but I'll see it it works somewhat Thanks everyone!!!
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