I found this awhile back, I can't remember where, but I saved it because someday I'm going to give it a try. I thought someone might find it useful.
Nilsen Kalk Reactor
The link I used to build my Nilsen Reactor reactor does not seem to be responding now, maybe it is just down temporarily here it is http://cereal.mv.com/nilsen.html
Here is another link with several DIY links for Nilsens, including the one I used (Bill Esposito’s): http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/V...nk/nilsen.html
I used the same concept as Bill Esposito, but built something a little different. My differences are listed below. I also used acrylic, which is harder to work with than clear PVC
, that is why mine has a small leak, hence the big green tub (easily fixable, but not a top priority of mine). I put two pictures of my reactor in the photo album called Tank Photos.
1. Instead of using an external pump to mix the Kalk
, I used a Rio 50, connected to a nylon tube that does a 180 degree loop. The only purpose of this (or the external pump) is to mix up the Kalk
. I mix three times a day (every 8 hours). You will need a digital timer (I have an Intermatic timer), because you won’t want to mix the Kalk
for more than 15 minutes. Most analog timers won’t give you less than 30 minutes between the on and off. I came up with 15 minutes, because in this time the murky mixed Kalkwasser reaches only half way up the column. So you can continue dosing while it mixes with the clear solution at the top of the column. Since I put the Rio 50 internal to the reactor, I had to cut the chord to the pump near the plug end, fish it through a small hole I drilled in the reactor, and then splice back together once I finished the assembly.
2. Instead of using a dosing pump, I went the cheap route and used another Rio 50 to feed the R.O. water to the reactor. It is on full throttle and I control the dosing with an airline valve that is in my sump. This works just fine, but it took about a week to get the drip rate to equal the evaporation rate. I also check it every day and shake it the sump to knock off any clogs that may be forming.
3. I used a rubber plumbing end cap at the top, which actually works better than what he used since it comes off easier, and you need to take it off to add more Kalk
4. My tank is 50 gallons, so I needed a 4” diameter acrylic tube, two feet long. The larger your tank, the higher your dose rate, the longer the tube must be. This is because you want to make sure you are only dosing with the clear mixture. After your timer goes off to do a mix, you want that mixed portion to be pushed slowly up the column while un-dissolved Kalk
falls to the bottom. So if you have a high dose rate due to a larger tank, a two foot column might not allow for enough time for the un-dissolved Kalk
to settle before it enter the airline feeding your tank.
5. Incase you didn’t know, the stubby airline at the top is to bleed of air that is in the column after you open it up to put Kalk
in. Remember the whole purpose of this is to have a completely closed reactor, not allowing air or Carbon Dioxide in.
I will be more than happy to answer question. My e-mail address is email@example.com