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Old 10-01-2008, 09:30 AM   #21
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Also, I used a 1" strainer for the intake, in addition to the one that came with it, I think this is hampering flow...

What about the noise? As it is this is too much, is there any way to muffle it?
What do you mean you used a 1" strainer in addition to the one that came with it?

What kind of noise are you hearing? Is it the vibration of the pump or is it a sucking noise?
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Old 10-01-2008, 11:42 AM   #22
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I bought a 1" male threaded strainer for the intake of the pump, assuming it came with nothing. Instead, it came with a guard that slips over the intake, so I used both thinking it was extra protection from debris.

The noise is the opperation of the pump, the *whir* of the impellor?
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:33 PM   #23
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Question

I am going to start draining the tank, not going to waste this much water so long proccess...



This 55g plus a couple $5 rubbermaid bins from home depot should do it, though I assume when the water levels are equal the siphon stops and I will have to empty to ground level.

Please give feedback on piping return, won't the benifits of a 2" pipe end when it has to reduce to pass through a 1.5" bulkhead opening? Also I had installed male/female threaded pairs throughout setup to enable it's disassebly for cleaning, ect...

I now see that the vertical rigidity of the return pipe and the size of the pump won't allow me to unscrew this, but what about the ball valves?

The threaded ones can be removed/replaced but the green slip one is a permanent seal... depending on the use of a 1.5 or 2 inch return pipe, should I use a slip ball valve to be able to close it?
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Old 10-01-2008, 04:50 PM   #24
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The noise the pump creates is just that...It is a large pump and it is going to make noise. The only way to really eliminate the noise is to go with an external pump that is designed to be quiet.

What I did was get a threaded union and attache that directly to the pump. The union comes apart and will allow you to remove the pump and then remove the plumbing. Since your bulkhead is 1.5" you should use 1.5" plumbing. The "T" you have coming off the return and going back into the sump do you have that open or closed?
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Old 10-02-2008, 12:43 AM   #25
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The aquarium is in my living space, I knew it would be more noise than the Fluval or my computer, but this is much more than I anticipated. I guess I will decide if it is tolerable or not, and if not see if I can exchange by mail or whatever.

Piping: ok I will use 1.5" to redo the plumbing...
As for the immobility, I do have a threaded union attached now, but i have to seal that with the pipe and end up with a rigid, vertical pipe that must be cut and redone to move or change.
The T is closed, the spraybar puts most of the water out the sides, with little coming horizontally, though the fact that they are there disperses any pressure there was to begin with. I'm not sure how to design the next, it is frustrating because it has to come to the surface first...

Thanks for all your continued help

And jsoong, I uderstand the U now, will figure out that when I move on to the overflow, though I could use help with that design as well...
how high should pipes go and should I just keep it simple with open strainers or have something more sophisticated?
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Old 10-02-2008, 09:53 PM   #26
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how high should pipes go and should I just keep it simple with open strainers or have something more sophisticated?
You are talking about the standpipes? The height depends on how you draw water into the overflow box. If you are letting water go over the top of the box, that will set the water level. You pipes then need to be short enough that there is enough head room the drive the water through the standpipes. OTOH, if there is a big drop from the top of the overflow (tank water level) to the water level inside the box, it will be loud ..... I had to fiddle with the standpipe height a bit to get things right ... so I would suggest not gluing anything down without testing.

If you are drawing water from the bottom of the tank with any of my designs, the stand pipe height determines the water level in the tank.

Open strainers on stand pipes can be loud. Try it & see if it is acceptable to you. You might need to do Durso, Stockman, or other silencing methods.

One thing you might try to quieten the pump - put it on a block of coarse foam. My pump vibrates against the bottom of the sump & set up some kind of feedback loop that magnified the sound. Isolating it from the bottom & sides helped a lot.
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Old 10-02-2008, 09:55 PM   #27
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The T is closed, the spraybar puts most of the water out the sides, with little coming horizontally, though the fact that they are there disperses any pressure there was to begin with. I'm not sure how to design the next, it is frustrating because it has to come to the surface first...
I can't quite visualize your problem, can you elaborate?
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Old 10-03-2008, 03:37 AM   #28
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jsoong, thx for the pump silencing idea, I have it cushioned on top of a piece of filter foam, is that what you meant?

The spraybar I had before led to most of the flow coming out the tip of the cross, yet the multiple pathways left even the strongest flow pretty weak.

I have rebuilt with 1.5" pipe, and have a threaded coupling like you described, ziggy
My best ball valve is sealed too close to the T off from before, that and the lack of space and the desire to have as few joinings as possible led me to just pipe the pump to the bulkhead, with the ability to take apart to clean, add a valve, ect.



For the top, I had wanted some sort of flow to flush out the underside of the ramp/platform:



Though I think I will go with this instead, two outlets directed toward the opposit corner, with the lower one having the farthest reach:



With the Y split I hope to balance the flow, covering the greatest distance the length of the tank. Under the platform I hope enough water is moving in general, though cleaning with Python system might need to be more often if a dead spot developes.

I am going to tinker with the setup til I feel it's best it can be and cement it, then replace water.

If this works out, next I will figure out how to install teeth or eggcrate to keep turtles out of OF box, then U siphon and levels of standpipes.
Any thoughts?
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Old 10-03-2008, 07:10 PM   #29
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Ok, finished the return plumbing around 2:30am last night, decided to let it sit until I had more time to catch a leak or make an adjustment. Started siphoning water back in, out to store to see if 5 or 10 foot tubing (rather than the 50' tube that connects to faucet) is available for my python siphon so I can speed this process up...

With only 3/4 of an inch between platform and surface level, I made the ruturn pipe go as high as possible. It goes high enough for holes to be drilled above the water line, with a drain Y splitting flow (hopefully) between two horizontal jets that point toward different corners accross the length of the display tank.
Here is the design I went with:





I started the pump, using the water left in the sump, to see where the water would go, the majority of flow came out the lower jet but I think it might be different when everything is completely submerged, the flow might be better divided...
I dont know what else can realistically be done to split the flow in 2, and even if only one is going at least the flow moves accross the bottom to the other side.

Off to the store...
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Old 10-04-2008, 01:18 AM   #30
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Exclamation

Got all the water back in, went to top it off and... the return pipe drains the water to a level that is too low,
when the pump starts the sump is emptied as water gets up to the OF level and pump runs on air before water can flow back through the sump...







My holes are drilled into top of return line and do stop a back siphon, though the water slowly drains until it is below the upsidedown U. I am limited by platform hieght and cannot bring the pipe any farther up.

I hope someone has an idea, because the only alternative I see is redoing everything with the return coming out of the box and the hole under the platform plugged.
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