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Old 12-29-2004, 08:42 PM   #1
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question for those experienced working with acrylics...

i would like to use my table saw to cut acrylic. i have a 200 tooth blade. would that work to make good clean cuts?
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Old 12-30-2004, 01:27 AM   #2
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Generally depending on your clean up methods any blade that will cut will suffice (if using a jointer or router to clean rour edges) Recommended is a triple chip carbide blade. I personally run an 80 tooth Oldham triple chip carbide. There are a few tricks to getting good seems with just table cut blades, but for pretty joints I recommend one of the above with the router preferred.

What is your project? I'd be happy to help.

R-
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Old 12-30-2004, 04:45 AM   #3
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well, i thought i would take a try at making a sump! i have a wet/dry (no bio-balls) that i am using as a sump, however, i would like to make something "custom" for my needs (wants), not to mention that i think it would be a great project to learn how to work with acrylics. what sort of router bit do you use?

btw, i made the mistake of using rototool to cut some acrylic once and all it did was melt the acrylic and break the bits (sign of a newbie). i have cut the acrylic the old fashion way with a scribe and breaking it along the line, however, with 1/4", it takes a long time.

ok, basically i want to work with my table saw. i have a 200 tooth blade so i was wondering if my cuts would be clean.
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SW - 75 gal
Amiracle SL-350 Wet/Dry (no bio-balls)
AquaC EV-180 Skimmer w/Mag 7
2ea Maxi-Jet 1200 & 2ea Maxi-Jet 900 PH
Captive Purity Refractometer w/Calibrator
LCD Digital 250 W Titanium Heater
48in Coralife 4x65 watt PC
Won Pro Heat II
Tunz level alarm
Approx. 200lbs Sand (3-4" DSB)
RO/DI unit - 110 GPD

Please feel free to advise me!
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Old 12-30-2004, 10:06 AM   #4
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I'm interested in the same project, I have to find excuses to buy new power equipment,LOL!

I just saw on tv , I think it was Overhaulin, they were making something out of acrylic. The way they cut it was they scored it on both sides and then squirted alcohol on one side and lit it on fire. As the alcohol was burning they kept bending it at the joint until it broke at the seam. It didnt show how clean the edge was after it was cut, but seemed like it was pretty clean.

Keep us updated on your project.
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Old 12-30-2004, 01:27 PM   #5
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i have cut acrylic in the same fashion, except i didn't burn it. if you score the acrylic and place in on the edge of a workbench just at the scored line, it can be snapped clean. however, i have had snapped edges that weren't perfectly square. i believe that the edges need to be square and clean to make good joints especially for something that holds water.

and besides, we can have excuses for new power equipment and tools!!!
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SW - 75 gal
Amiracle SL-350 Wet/Dry (no bio-balls)
AquaC EV-180 Skimmer w/Mag 7
2ea Maxi-Jet 1200 & 2ea Maxi-Jet 900 PH
Captive Purity Refractometer w/Calibrator
LCD Digital 250 W Titanium Heater
48in Coralife 4x65 watt PC
Won Pro Heat II
Tunz level alarm
Approx. 200lbs Sand (3-4" DSB)
RO/DI unit - 110 GPD

Please feel free to advise me!
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Old 12-30-2004, 02:09 PM   #6
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when using the score and break method, I've found it helpful to use some sort of block or board to hold the acrylic down to the workbench. This helps keep it from acidentally lifting or twisting. Helps to get a square break.
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Old 12-30-2004, 07:27 PM   #7
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sumphead, what kind of router bit are u using to trim the acrylic. also, what do you use to drill the holes for bulkhead fittings.
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SW - 75 gal
Amiracle SL-350 Wet/Dry (no bio-balls)
AquaC EV-180 Skimmer w/Mag 7
2ea Maxi-Jet 1200 & 2ea Maxi-Jet 900 PH
Captive Purity Refractometer w/Calibrator
LCD Digital 250 W Titanium Heater
48in Coralife 4x65 watt PC
Won Pro Heat II
Tunz level alarm
Approx. 200lbs Sand (3-4" DSB)
RO/DI unit - 110 GPD

Please feel free to advise me!
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Old 12-30-2004, 07:39 PM   #8
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OK check out this link to a stickied thread here on AA: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewto...257&highlight=

This should halp a little.

I am using two routers: On the table I now run a 2 1/4 hp Hitachi and I also use my 1 3/4 hp Poter cable quite often. I use a large 1 1/2" diameter strait bit for shaping and edge prep with a fence on a router table. I use a flush trim bit for the sides when finishing projects (this is pictured in the link I think)

For holes; I used to use a cordless drill and a spade bit. Going slow yeilds good results. Now I drill prior to construction on a drill press using forstner bits just for a proffesional touch. But the handheld works just fine, just go slow so as not to melt the acrylic. If you are dilling for larger bulkheads you may have to find a forstner bit as I have yet to see a spade bit larger than 1 1/2".

I have to discourage the scoring, it just isn't reliable and can ruin a good chuck of acrylic. I am having a baby tomorrow (scheduled C-section) but I will chaeck back in a couple of days and answer any more questions you have. I'll post pics of more specific stuff if you would like.

HTH guys,
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Old 12-30-2004, 07:42 PM   #9
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OH, and never melt the acrylic unless using a proffesional heat bender. It gives off very toxic and possibly lethal gasses. And the rotozip isn't a bad tool at all, they actually make great router bits for it that will serve quite well with thinner materials.

R-
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Old 12-30-2004, 10:43 PM   #10
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thanks sumphead. i am looking forward to return and your new baby!
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SW - 75 gal
Amiracle SL-350 Wet/Dry (no bio-balls)
AquaC EV-180 Skimmer w/Mag 7
2ea Maxi-Jet 1200 & 2ea Maxi-Jet 900 PH
Captive Purity Refractometer w/Calibrator
LCD Digital 250 W Titanium Heater
48in Coralife 4x65 watt PC
Won Pro Heat II
Tunz level alarm
Approx. 200lbs Sand (3-4" DSB)
RO/DI unit - 110 GPD

Please feel free to advise me!
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