question for those experienced working with acrylics...
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
sumphead
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Generally depending on your clean up methods any blade that will cut will suffice (if using a jointer or router to clean rour edges) Recommended is a triple chip carbide blade. I personally run an 80 tooth Oldham triple chip carbide. There are a few tricks to getting good seems with just table cut blades, but for pretty joints I recommend one of the above with the router preferred.
What is your project? I'd be happy to help.
R-
What is your project? I'd be happy to help.
R-
well, i thought i would take a try at making a sump! i have a wet/dry (no bio-balls) that i am using as a sump, however, i would like to make something "custom" for my needs (wants), not to mention that i think it would be a great project to learn how to work with acrylics. what sort of router bit do you use?
btw, i made the mistake of using rototool to cut some acrylic once and all it did was melt the acrylic and break the bits (sign of a newbie). i have cut the acrylic the old fashion way with a scribe and breaking it along the line, however, with 1/4", it takes a long time.
ok, basically i want to work with my table saw. i have a 200 tooth blade so i was wondering if my cuts would be clean.
btw, i made the mistake of using rototool to cut some acrylic once and all it did was melt the acrylic and break the bits (sign of a newbie). i have cut the acrylic the old fashion way with a scribe and breaking it along the line, however, with 1/4", it takes a long time.
ok, basically i want to work with my table saw. i have a 200 tooth blade so i was wondering if my cuts would be clean.
GrndHog
Aquarium Advice FINatic
I'm interested in the same project, I have to find excuses to buy new power equipment,LOL!
I just saw on tv , I think it was Overhaulin, they were making something out of acrylic. The way they cut it was they scored it on both sides and then squirted alcohol on one side and lit it on fire. As the alcohol was burning they kept bending it at the joint until it broke at the seam. It didnt show how clean the edge was after it was cut, but seemed like it was pretty clean.
Keep us updated on your project.
I just saw on tv , I think it was Overhaulin, they were making something out of acrylic. The way they cut it was they scored it on both sides and then squirted alcohol on one side and lit it on fire. As the alcohol was burning they kept bending it at the joint until it broke at the seam. It didnt show how clean the edge was after it was cut, but seemed like it was pretty clean.
Keep us updated on your project.
i have cut acrylic in the same fashion, except i didn't burn it. if you score the acrylic and place in on the edge of a workbench just at the scored line, it can be snapped clean. however, i have had snapped edges that weren't perfectly square. i believe that the edges need to be square and clean to make good joints especially for something that holds water.
and besides, we can have excuses for new power equipment and tools!!!
and besides, we can have excuses for new power equipment and tools!!!
BillyZ
Aquarium Advice Addict
when using the score and break method, I've found it helpful to use some sort of block or board to hold the acrylic down to the workbench. This helps keep it from acidentally lifting or twisting. Helps to get a square break.
sumphead
Aquarium Advice FINatic
OK check out this link to a stickied thread here on AA: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=30257&highlight=
This should halp a little.
I am using two routers: On the table I now run a 2 1/4 hp Hitachi and I also use my 1 3/4 hp Poter cable quite often. I use a large 1 1/2" diameter strait bit for shaping and edge prep with a fence on a router table. I use a flush trim bit for the sides when finishing projects (this is pictured in the link I think)
For holes; I used to use a cordless drill and a spade bit. Going slow yeilds good results. Now I drill prior to construction on a drill press using forstner bits just for a proffesional touch. But the handheld works just fine, just go slow so as not to melt the acrylic. If you are dilling for larger bulkheads you may have to find a forstner bit as I have yet to see a spade bit larger than 1 1/2".
I have to discourage the scoring, it just isn't reliable and can ruin a good chuck of acrylic. I am having a baby tomorrow (scheduled C-section) but I will chaeck back in a couple of days and answer any more questions you have. I'll post pics of more specific stuff if you would like.
HTH guys,
R-
This should halp a little.
I am using two routers: On the table I now run a 2 1/4 hp Hitachi and I also use my 1 3/4 hp Poter cable quite often. I use a large 1 1/2" diameter strait bit for shaping and edge prep with a fence on a router table. I use a flush trim bit for the sides when finishing projects (this is pictured in the link I think)
For holes; I used to use a cordless drill and a spade bit. Going slow yeilds good results. Now I drill prior to construction on a drill press using forstner bits just for a proffesional touch. But the handheld works just fine, just go slow so as not to melt the acrylic. If you are dilling for larger bulkheads you may have to find a forstner bit as I have yet to see a spade bit larger than 1 1/2".
I have to discourage the scoring, it just isn't reliable and can ruin a good chuck of acrylic. I am having a baby tomorrow (scheduled C-section) but I will chaeck back in a couple of days and answer any more questions you have. I'll post pics of more specific stuff if you would like.
HTH guys,
R-
sumphead
Aquarium Advice FINatic
OH, and never melt the acrylic unless using a proffesional heat bender. It gives off very toxic and possibly lethal gasses. And the rotozip isn't a bad tool at all, they actually make great router bits for it that will serve quite well with thinner materials.
R-
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jsoong
Aquarium Advice Addict
Congrats Sumphead! on the pending new baby!
I am by no means as experienced with sumphead on acrylics, but I have cut & shaped acrylics. First thing is that you need carbide tipped tools - and it has to be sharp. Non carbide cutters tends to generate too much heat & make a mess with melted blobs of stuff on the cut line. Feed rate is also important, feed too slow & the cut tend to melt & make a mess. Practice with scrapes to get a feel of your tool's response.
Final result depends a bit on the saw - how much vibration/wobble is there in the blade. But I find there is always slight machine marks on the edges with my saw, so I cut slightly oversized (1/16") & clean up the edge with a router. I use a Porter-cable with a 1/2" straight cut on my router table for that.
I've read about cleaning up the edges on the jointer too. But maybe because I don't have carbide blades on my jointer, the edges don't come out clean.
I am by no means as experienced with sumphead on acrylics, but I have cut & shaped acrylics. First thing is that you need carbide tipped tools - and it has to be sharp. Non carbide cutters tends to generate too much heat & make a mess with melted blobs of stuff on the cut line. Feed rate is also important, feed too slow & the cut tend to melt & make a mess. Practice with scrapes to get a feel of your tool's response.
Final result depends a bit on the saw - how much vibration/wobble is there in the blade. But I find there is always slight machine marks on the edges with my saw, so I cut slightly oversized (1/16") & clean up the edge with a router. I use a Porter-cable with a 1/2" straight cut on my router table for that.
I've read about cleaning up the edges on the jointer too. But maybe because I don't have carbide blades on my jointer, the edges don't come out clean.
sumphead
Aquarium Advice FINatic
OK baby and Momma are home, things are settling down, where do you want to start?
R-
(oh and thanks for the kind words)
R-
(oh and thanks for the kind words)
sumphead
Aquarium Advice FINatic
This is my 3rd and last I think. Boy 11, Girl 4, and lilman 1 week. thanks!
I see you are in Hawaii, Sears perhaps? Also if you are planning on using a router or jointer then the blade is of less importance, though you will have to allow a little extra on the cuts for clean-up. Solid square cuts are far more important than the cut itself.
jsoong, To avoid that wobble a little more use the 1/2" collet and a larger bit. That should help a great deal. As for your jointer not having carbide blades, that's OK too. The router gives a little better results but the jointer is fine*. It is more important to have square clean cuts than perfect edges. Also try Spiral cut router bits if you can find them, they make cleaner cuts that a strait flush trim bit.
*note on the jointer - A jointer will not make cuts sqaure, only clean edges as sqaure as the piece was to begin with.
Anything in particular you guys want to see? I'll try to get a pic of anything you like.
R-
I see you are in Hawaii, Sears perhaps? Also if you are planning on using a router or jointer then the blade is of less importance, though you will have to allow a little extra on the cuts for clean-up. Solid square cuts are far more important than the cut itself.
jsoong, To avoid that wobble a little more use the 1/2" collet and a larger bit. That should help a great deal. As for your jointer not having carbide blades, that's OK too. The router gives a little better results but the jointer is fine*. It is more important to have square clean cuts than perfect edges. Also try Spiral cut router bits if you can find them, they make cleaner cuts that a strait flush trim bit.
*note on the jointer - A jointer will not make cuts sqaure, only clean edges as sqaure as the piece was to begin with.
Anything in particular you guys want to see? I'll try to get a pic of anything you like.
R-
BillyZ
Aquarium Advice Addict
not sure which you were trying to say. A joiner will make the edge square to the face of the material, but will not make the length of the side square to the perpendicular sides. Was that what you were trying to say?
sumphead
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Exactly, but with a router and a router table with a fence you only need one square corner to make an evenly square piece. The long and the short of it is; the better your cut off the table saw the better the project.
R-
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