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Old 04-29-2009, 04:29 PM   #11
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That is a really cool tank. Salt water I assume...
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Old 04-29-2009, 07:43 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the input, just order some live rock for the first section of sump. The only other thing I have'nt figured out is to use pvc, or a 1in flex tubing? If I use pvc how do you glue together? Is it safe to use regular pvc glue?
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Old 04-30-2009, 10:10 AM   #13
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you can find some nontoxic silicone to use between the pvc joints on the vacuum side of the pump. as far as the pressure side is concerned, i don't know that the silicone will hold it together, but you can use heavy scheduled pvc and hammer the joints together an it should hold well enough. you might also think about using threaded joints wherever possible but those can get up to a dollar apiece depending on where you get them and what size they are. Lowes is you friend!
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Old 05-02-2009, 12:21 AM   #14
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I have used PVC glue and primer (the clear not the ugly purple) on all my plumbing. My method is to trust your nose... At least wait until the smell of primer/glue is gone before running things. So far I have not seen any problems associated with using these products.
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Old 05-02-2009, 12:37 PM   #15
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I used goop thats made for pvc. I just let it dry for a day and it has worked great so far. I went with the goop so I didn't have to use primer since its just another chemical to worry about. I was carefull when putting the goop on though to try not getting any inside the elboe just to be safe. I spread it around the pipe and kept it back a little from the edge
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Old 05-02-2009, 02:23 PM   #16
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yeah i decide to go with pvc. Would 3/4 or 1 in pipe be better? Just order overflow box it is a CPR 1200gph. Should there be a inline check valve on the return line? I also have a refugium, I was going to put a T on the return line with a ball valve for the water flow over the refugium, would this be ok? Or should the water fill into refugium after the skimmer section before the return pump.
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Old 05-02-2009, 07:07 PM   #17
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I put a check valve on mine and it cut the water flow dramaticly so I took it off. I also used 1'' for the main lines and 3/4'' for the return line. you don't need a check valve if you leave room for the water to syphon. Just make sure your return line is high so you don't syphon to much. I didn't feel a ball valve was nessary.
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Old 05-02-2009, 07:18 PM   #18
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Thanks for input just waiting on new over flow box to arrive, should be monday. I am ready to get sump up and running, the protein skimmer has been hanging on the side of the tank for awhile now. Ill be glad when it is finally under the stand out of site. skimmer also takes up alot of the corner of the tank, Fish will have alitte more room to swim
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Old 05-02-2009, 07:24 PM   #19
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For my money, 3/4" pipe does not exist. For the drain from the overflow I like to go with 1 1/2". A 1" for the return line should be ok if everything is in the cabinet below the tank.

As for a check valve, you have to take into account what is going to happen when the power goes off. Both your drain line and return line are going to provide a path for water to make it's way down to your sump. At some point the water in the main tank will get low enough to allow these lines to start sucking air. That is pretty much the point where your sump will stop filling up. The higher in the water column your return line is, the less water it will suck out when the power is off. If this line has to be too low in the tank, a check valve will help. As mentioned though, there is no free lunch. Check valves come at a cost of head loss which equals reduced flow.

I like to use valves everywhere. A common practice is to place a valve right at the tank, one on a T for water to go to the fuge, and another at the sump. This allows you to balance water flow to the different chambers in your sump as well as provides a shutoff for the whole system without messing with your adjustment valves. For me it seems that you can not have too many valves. While messing with things I have never wished I did not place a valve someplace, but many times wish I had put a valve where I did not.

Consider a union in lines that you may be likely to have to remove at some point for maintenance. Like any pump that is hard plumbed, or an overflow line that would have to be cut to remove a sump.

HTH
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Old 05-02-2009, 07:43 PM   #20
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Yeah I am with you on having valves install, for serving the sump, skimmer. I bought a CPR 1200gph overflow it has two lines that will drain into sump. I just bought 1 in pvc and ball valves and T fittings today. Should the water flowing to fuge be from the inlet or return line?
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