here are some pics of my design I have 3 sections and a refigium. The first section Inlet is the far right side, were the bioballs will be, then it flows into the skimmer and heater section. Last is the return chamber. above the return is the refugium
sump setup for 125 gal.
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would like to here what you think, only have about 80$ in sump so far. I cant decide on what over flow box to use. Would 300 gal per hour be enough flow or do I need more flow. It is around 4 ft to sump from top of tank. Also should I use pvc pipe or tubing 1in? thanks for the help
CaptainAhab
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Agree, 1200. Any particular reason you went with bioballs vs live rock rubble?
thanks for input, That is alot of flow. I would have to upgradet the return pump I bought. It is a Rio but I lose alot of head pressure moving water up 4 ft to tank. I have'nt bought bio balls yet, so smaller peices of rock would work better? Any ideas on a good overflow box for that much flow.This is a fish only tank and I also already have a rena XP3, and two power heads, would I still need that much flow with other filters?
CaptainAhab
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It's not uncommon to see dual 1200 overflows on a 125. Is that a 50g sump?
Yes it is a 50g sump, I still have'nt filled each section to see how much water they will take. Also should I put a top on the sump or leave it open? This was a all in one tank but I had to change it to fit under stand. Here is a pic of the back side where more rock can go and my heater.
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jparcell
Aquarium Advice Apprentice
that's a really nice looking sump! Your pump should keep up with your overflow becase it only overflows what your pump returns. I just installed a 1200 gph overflow with a rio 2100 and they work great togther
CaptainAhab
Thanx but no.....
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I leave mine open to help with gas exchange and some PH issues I struggle with. You can go with whatever size overflow you want but in the end you may need more PH's to make up for the decreased flow. I run a 600 on my 90 and have 2 k4's and a canister filter running. Some days I think I still need more flow
Thanks for all the input, just order some live rock for the first section of sump. The only other thing I have'nt figured out is to use pvc, or a 1in flex tubing? If I use pvc how do you glue together? Is it safe to use regular pvc glue?
you can find some nontoxic silicone to use between the pvc joints on the vacuum side of the pump. as far as the pressure side is concerned, i don't know that the silicone will hold it together, but you can use heavy scheduled pvc and hammer the joints together an it should hold well enough. you might also think about using threaded joints wherever possible but those can get up to a dollar apiece depending on where you get them and what size they are. Lowes is you friend!
SparKy697
Aquarium Advice Addict
I have used PVC glue and primer (the clear not the ugly purple) on all my plumbing. My method is to trust your nose... At least wait until the smell of primer/glue is gone before running things. So far I have not seen any problems associated with using these products.
jparcell
Aquarium Advice Apprentice
I used goop thats made for pvc. I just let it dry for a day and it has worked great so far. I went with the goop so I didn't have to use primer since its just another chemical to worry about. I was carefull when putting the goop on though to try not getting any inside the elboe just to be safe. I spread it around the pipe and kept it back a little from the edge
yeah i decide to go with pvc. Would 3/4 or 1 in pipe be better? Just order overflow box it is a CPR 1200gph. Should there be a inline check valve on the return line? I also have a refugium, I was going to put a T on the return line with a ball valve for the water flow over the refugium, would this be ok? Or should the water fill into refugium after the skimmer section before the return pump.
jparcell
Aquarium Advice Apprentice
I put a check valve on mine and it cut the water flow dramaticly so I took it off. I also used 1'' for the main lines and 3/4'' for the return line. you don't need a check valve if you leave room for the water to syphon. Just make sure your return line is high so you don't syphon to much. I didn't feel a ball valve was nessary.
Thanks for input just waiting on new over flow box to arrive, should be monday. I am ready to get sump up and running, the protein skimmer has been hanging on the side of the tank for awhile now. Ill be glad when it is finally under the stand out of site. skimmer also takes up alot of the corner of the tank, Fish will have alitte more room to swim
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SparKy697
Aquarium Advice Addict
For my money, 3/4" pipe does not exist. For the drain from the overflow I like to go with 1 1/2". A 1" for the return line should be ok if everything is in the cabinet below the tank.
As for a check valve, you have to take into account what is going to happen when the power goes off. Both your drain line and return line are going to provide a path for water to make it's way down to your sump. At some point the water in the main tank will get low enough to allow these lines to start sucking air. That is pretty much the point where your sump will stop filling up. The higher in the water column your return line is, the less water it will suck out when the power is off. If this line has to be too low in the tank, a check valve will help. As mentioned though, there is no free lunch. Check valves come at a cost of head loss which equals reduced flow.
I like to use valves everywhere. A common practice is to place a valve right at the tank, one on a T for water to go to the fuge, and another at the sump. This allows you to balance water flow to the different chambers in your sump as well as provides a shutoff for the whole system without messing with your adjustment valves. For me it seems that you can not have too many valves. While messing with things I have never wished I did not place a valve someplace, but many times wish I had put a valve where I did not.
Consider a union in lines that you may be likely to have to remove at some point for maintenance. Like any pump that is hard plumbed, or an overflow line that would have to be cut to remove a sump.
HTH
As for a check valve, you have to take into account what is going to happen when the power goes off. Both your drain line and return line are going to provide a path for water to make it's way down to your sump. At some point the water in the main tank will get low enough to allow these lines to start sucking air. That is pretty much the point where your sump will stop filling up. The higher in the water column your return line is, the less water it will suck out when the power is off. If this line has to be too low in the tank, a check valve will help. As mentioned though, there is no free lunch. Check valves come at a cost of head loss which equals reduced flow.
I like to use valves everywhere. A common practice is to place a valve right at the tank, one on a T for water to go to the fuge, and another at the sump. This allows you to balance water flow to the different chambers in your sump as well as provides a shutoff for the whole system without messing with your adjustment valves. For me it seems that you can not have too many valves. While messing with things I have never wished I did not place a valve someplace, but many times wish I had put a valve where I did not.
Consider a union in lines that you may be likely to have to remove at some point for maintenance. Like any pump that is hard plumbed, or an overflow line that would have to be cut to remove a sump.
HTH
Yeah I am with you on having valves install, for serving the sump, skimmer. I bought a CPR 1200gph overflow it has two lines that will drain into sump. I just bought 1 in pvc and ball valves and T fittings today. Should the water flowing to fuge be from the inlet or return line?
