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Old 04-28-2011, 02:59 AM   #11
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here's my plan for a sump, certainly things can be added or adjusted if need be.

It's 20"x20" height is unknown currently but since I was building my tank I thought i might experiment with the caulk on something hidden first... I was thinking 15/16 inch height would be fine that would give me 20gal in the sump with i think 6 gal for overflow. is that enough?

the refugium would have a deep sand bed as well as live rock and cheato.

the "red" panels would be attached on the bottom but not going all the way up while the blue panels attached at the top but not going all the way down.
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Old 04-28-2011, 10:10 PM   #12
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The inlet section needs to be large enough (width) to fit your hand all the way down inside. I have had snails get in there and the can be hard to get out.

To help with the sump being quiet, make sure the water height between the "filter sock shelf" and your skimmer section are close. This would be determined by the top red line in your skimmer section. Mine are about 6 inches difference and I get some water falling noise from within the sock itself. I wish I had made them closer like within a few inches.

I think return section needs to be larger because this is where you will see the water loss from evaporation. If you make it too small your return pump might suck air with less than 1 day's evaporation. This section is also where you would put any float valves for auto top off later.

I really like the circular design!! Good luck!!
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Old 04-29-2011, 01:47 AM   #13
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great info on the return section, I certainly didn't know that was the area that the evap shows in... I was also thinking of using some type of grate system to keep the algae in the refugium, i want the pods and such to be able to go through. If i could find an acceptable system to replace the three panes of glass I would certainly us that, it would also give me a lot more room for evaporation.
I was quite pleased with the circular design it started out because i could have gotten 2 15gal tall tanks for cheap, so I started thinking one for refugium and the other for everthing else with plumbing in between. Then i got to thinking why not build a tank glass is cheap as well, and if i'm building the dt it makes sense to try it out first.
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Old 04-29-2011, 02:58 PM   #14
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when i showed this plan to my lfs they told me i should have a filter and carbon in front of the sock filter to add a bit of longevity to my sock filter, also he said that carbon is always a good idea. Are these additions that important?
If they are I think I could add a small box above the sock that could be removed to replace everything, it would just add a bit more planning and a few bucks to the build. I see his point but at the same time I'm concerned about sock filters lasting too long and becoming a nitrate factory
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:23 PM   #15
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No,I shouldn't worry about that.also I would make the skimmer section just big enough for your skimmer so you can make the return section larger.just have a spare filter sock so you can wsapit and clean the soiled one.I would.t bother about a crate,keep the baffles the pods will make it back to the dt easily,and as for the algae,as long as its growing well in the sump it shouldn't grow in the dt.
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Old 04-29-2011, 04:01 PM   #16
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well the skimmer I'm looking at is 12x10 so I'm not leaving much room around that area, but it wouldn't be a problem to exten the wall out a bit for the return pump section into the refugium. It's also going to be a little wider as I'm going to give myself some room to put my hand in the inlet section like itchyfingers said. Or I could flip it the the other way and have my refugium only 8" front to back, which would allow me to add about 4" to ththe return pump section

Now that the basics are out of the way on to more technical stuff...
The size of the pipes and pump are confusing me just a tad. which way do I want the pump/pipe ratio to work. Using 1/2 pipe should give me 420gph, if the pump is 550gph is that the right way? or would it run the outlet area dry? or is it better to have a 3/4" pipe giving me 660gph drain with a 550gph pump as this would give the pump water to pump constantly, and control how much water can enter by having the drain up high?
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Old 04-29-2011, 04:48 PM   #17
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Also at the lfs I was looking at the way they have things done and the used reef tanks they have for sale dont have overflow boxes, at least not that I could see. I saw two pipes coming up though. both were tall near the top of the water line. So by keeping the drain near the top of the water it looks like whatever water is above the water line is all thats able to enter an no need to worry about syphon for your overflow box. As long as i had a hole in the return pipe near the waterline there shouldnt be any issue right? or is an overflow box really necessary and I just missed them?
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:31 PM   #18
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Its always best to get a predrilled tank and have no syphon overflow box at all,as for the pump/pipe size it all depends on the size of hole drilled in the tank,whatever that is determines the rest.Always keep the pump gph after head loss slightly lower than what the pipework can take.
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Old 04-30-2011, 06:41 PM   #19
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Im building the tank myself so i guess that means I determine my gph?
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:40 PM   #20
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so how much flow do i want going through on a 60 gal tank? i was looking at the mag 5, is it enough? Ive heard 10x tank flow is good, but isn't that for powerhead flow or can I take care of it all with my sump?
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