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Old 03-21-2015, 11:44 AM   #11
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Needs cross bracing and Jack studs. A piece of 1/2" ply glued and screwed to the top wouldn't hurt either. As it stands now?? Not worthy..

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Old 03-22-2015, 12:54 AM   #12
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By the looks of the picture, all of the weight will be supported by the screws at the corners. If those did not go in well and work out, or they flat out bust, there's trouble. In an ideal world, you would wedge in vertical 2 by 4s between the horizontals at each corner, so the weight would be supported by the 2 by 4s should the screws get stressed.

You said 36 by 49 by 19, and I'm used to reading measurements by length by width by height. I'm assuming from the picture your stand is 36 inches tall rather than 49 or 19. If so, you'd be looking at roughly 4-8 29 inch 2 by 4s cut to fill the vertical gap. You'd want to cut it tight enough you have to work a bit to wedge them in then screw them into the 4 by 4s.

I did a 40 breeder on a stand built like yours years ago, held up fine, but after a couple years I could see it was pretty unstable. That's not fun when the mere thought that a bump could send the whole thing crashing down. I built another stand this winter for a 40 breeder following a youtube video by Joey the DIYfishkeepers guy using the verticals between the top and bottom horizontals and it is rock solid, probably a bit overbuilt but 2 by 4s are cheap.

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Old 03-22-2015, 08:15 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Calqless View Post
I used 4x4 for the legs and 2x4 for the outline i plan on putting more braces up top and bottom just waiton on weather...this just my skeleton for the moment.

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Take the twist out of the noggin! Ensure top is flat.
You can just fix it back to the wall. That's how mine are. No cross braces just one fixing per side at the rear.

I used 3x2 for the legs and front to back (sides)
I think they were 1 1/2x1 3/4 from left to right.
18mm ply on new stuff and 15mm furniture board on old stuff (in vid)
These have held for years.

Both shelves in vid and pics are the same basic design. They work.

Holding 18",24" (left) and 30",36" (right)
(Tanks are now full! In progress shots.)
Right side holds around 510lb water weight.

Shelf from video, modified after move. Add one central leg and span for additional support (T shape) and double shelf thickness.
Held until I built fish house.
5ft x18" x18"
(VERY HEAVY! Approx 270lb slate, 440lb water, plus glass and gravel)

FW-750L DIY, 120L, 2x110L(not my)DIY. BW-60L DIY. Sw (nearly!)(http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums...se-284360.html)
^almost a DIY Fish House^ https://m.youtube.com/user/4tanks2day (L=litre)
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Old 03-23-2015, 11:35 AM   #14
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Looking closely at Mcpeak's shelves reveals a very important design characteristic often overlooked when building fish tank stands (or any other heavy static load). All the joints should be designed so that they are under compression rather than tension or shear (for example, the weight bearing joints of your stand are in shear). Shear or tension joints will fail if the fastener should loosen or fail, compression joints do not rely on fasteners to bear the weight.

Adding 2x4's to the sides of each of your 4x4's, wedged in between the upper and lower rails, will change the load bearing path to a compressive nature, the weight would then travel straight down from the tank to the top rail, top rail to the vertical 2x4, 2x4 to the bottom rail.

A compressive jointed stand will still be able to hold the weight of a tank with no fasteners at all (granted it would be as stable as a Janga tower!!). The screws should be used to create stability, not capacity; cross-braces and the like are screwed in to give stability, etc.

If you looks closely in a couple of Mcpeak's pictures, you can see the rails under the tanks are notched into the side rails. The side rails in turn are notched into the upright legs. All the notches create compression joints and the entire stand could theoretically hold the tanks without need for a single fastener!
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:59 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Calqless View Post
I used 4x4 for the legs and 2x4 for the outline i plan on putting more braces up top and bottom just waiton on weather...this just my skeleton for the moment.

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I think your better option would be to put another 2x4 infront of each 4x4 on the outside. I personally dont like how the 2x4 is just nailed to the side of the 4x4 with nothing but nails supporting it. Making sense? Probably not I speak in irratic mindless tongue sometimes.
I am planning on helping my buddy build a stand while I do mine so we can split materials.
I am going to use 4x4 as well but propbably do a sort of tongue and groove notch with the 2x4 so it rests INSIDE and not ont eh side of the 4x4s.

guy above me says basically the same thing..... derp
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Old 04-15-2015, 12:42 AM   #16
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Just put a piece of plywood on top so the tank sits flat that stand looks plenty strong as it is the 4x4 will support all the weight easily maybe a few more screws but thats it

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