The Z-Flow, $7.50 pvc no hassle overflow

[Electrobes]

okay so wait should I get airline tubing stick it through the hole.. how far down should I go with it?

My current hole is 11/64. Ironcally the only drill bit that I am missing is the 5/32, I have tried the drill bit before it (the 5/64) but it was too small and created the super siphon effect, and the drill bit after is the 11/64 I am using now. What size hole is everyone else using?

 

[reefrunner69]

Yes, you can use the purple PVC primer to stain it purple, kida like instant coraline.

 

[BillyZ]

Electrboes, I would start with 1/8" and work up towards 1/4" should do it for most. I can't imagine needing to go farther than say 3/8". The airline suggestion works for the gurgling noise if you end up removing the cap entirely (is that right? I've never used it). But with the right sized hole you shouldn't need to remove the cap.

 

[sellis]

okay so wait should I get airline tubing stick it through the hole.. how far down should I go with it?

2" to 4" into the hole I would think. You will need to experiment with it. Try a long piece and start sliding it down. Air line tube should work but may need larger.

The Principle is to introduce all the air needed for smooth flow into the tube below where the water flows over into the down pipe.

 

[kidafius]

i made mine, much like electrbodes, with the small cup, but i used 3/4" pvc, as I am only allocating a Maxi 1200 to it (295 gph for the 55 gal). I can only get a slight trickle out of it. does it matter how tall the loops are or how low they go, relative to the tank lvl?

 

[BillyZ]

in theory, the height of the loops shouldn't matter as there is much pull from gravity as there is push so it should all balance out.

what do you mean by a slight trickle? is the overflow not keeping up with the pump? I would imagine 3/4" should be more than enough for 300 gph. Make sure you have all of the air out of the pipe that goes over the top, thats the only thing I can think of that would slow it down...

 

[Electrobes]

well make sure that the "T" is below the water line.. if I remember correctly

 

[wvdeadhead]

I was thinking instead of running the collection cup along a table saw to make teeth, why not drill a series of holes all the way around it. Make it look somewhat like a honeycomb. I would say somewhere around the 1/4" - 3/8" size. You may have to experiment to see what gives you the best flow for your application.

 

[reefrunner69]

If the water does flow directly over the surface of the overflow cup, it will suck the water from just below the surface and leave the DOC film on top of the water

 

[wvdeadhead]

Ahh, I see. Didn't think of that when I posted that last reply. The holes would then defeat the whole purpose of having the overflow wouldn't it?

 

[reefrunner69]

Not completely, but certainly the largest part for having an overflow in a small tank. You still need a way to move water to the sump

 

[dewman]

how is this working out

I'm courious to see how this overflow setup is working out, and who is still useing it? I thinking of useing this setup on my 30g reef

 

[BillyZ]

I think this experiment has been met with limited success by those who have tried it. I think there is still potential for the design but my own tank plans have somewhat been put on hold so i have not had the opportunity to play with as much as I had wanted to.

The good part of the design is the cost, it's quite cheap to "take a stab" at it and see if you can get the flow you want. I think there was a rather in depth review of the design in another post in this forum. here it is, take a look at that link and if you want to experiment please add your comments to that thread so we can continue to improve on it!

HTH

 

[baotchi]

Hi guys

I found this thread about that z-flow thing and I think it is amazing. I did one, using 1" pvc, and installed it on a test tank. It flows ok, but doesn't keep primed... is there anything I did wrong? To prime it I remove the top-cap and suck air with my mouth, then I replace the cap, and it keeps flowing, but if I stop the pump, it stops and doesn't restart.

The only thing I did different is I did not put the "collection cup". So the pipe end is bare in the tank.

Any help?

thanks already,

 

[Verbalkint]

Baotchi, Prolly whats going on is you didn't get all the air out of the pvc...

I primed mine by submersing it in the tank, and rotating it in all directions until i was sure 100% of the air was out of the system.

Right now, I am getting the 'super suck' effect. The siphon works GREAT, but once the water level in the main tank drops low enough, it sucks air into the system, much like a toilet flushing.

Not sure how to correct this, so I am still playing with it. Without the collection cup, it pulled the top 3" of water off my tank in less than 10 seconds. Not sure what GPH that works out to, but its impressive, to say the least. I have a submersible pump in the sump tank returning water, that flows at about 300+ gph, not sure of the exact rate.

Anyone have suggestions for the "toilet flush" effect? Once it sucks air in, that's it.. Siphon is over.

 

[greenmaji]

further discussion on the Z-flow is at http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=21243

 

[dskidmore]

It looks like mine, but mine's not working. I'm getting about 90 GPH out, it looks fully primed any suggestions?

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?p=497456#497456

 

[krap101]

what if the power goes out? is that what the T thing is for? i havent really read much on overflows

 

[dskidmore]

See concept Diagram.

The siphon takes the water over the side of the tank. The two siphon maintaining loops keep that siphon from breaking when the power goes out. The siphon break keeps those siphon maintaining loops from getting sucked dry when the power goes out. The drain is the level the water should fall to on both ends of the assembly.

Some assemblies work better than others however. The PVC one mentioned here can only handle a low flow rate.