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Old 02-19-2004, 09:43 PM   #11
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try looking at hydrophonics sites they carry the same lights just not in canopy for alot less.You can get a 400W MH w/bulb for like $250-300
That is almost triple the cost of what my project is costing me. Besides, what would be the fun in buying it if I can build it.

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Old 02-20-2004, 01:09 PM   #12
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Snapped some pictures this morning before I began working on the fixture again. First shot here shows everything sans the reflector. Man those Workhorse 7 ballasts are hugh!!
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Old 02-20-2004, 01:10 PM   #13
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Here is a shot of the switches. One for the MH and one for the fluorescent.
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Old 02-22-2004, 02:51 PM   #14
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biggen how did you set the wires up for the switch, i just made one and im working on the wiring i would like to know, and what kind of switches did you get. by the way it looks great ill be posting my pic's soon. thanks for any help.
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Old 02-22-2004, 04:19 PM   #15
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biggen how did you set the wires up for the switch, i just made one and im working on the wiring i would like to know, and what kind of switches did you get
Hello!

I have two switches built into the fixture. One is a basic single pole 15A 120VAC switch. Simply put, its a basic light switch. The other switch is a 10A 277VAC single pole switch for the MH bulb. I am not sure if I am going be able to hook the MH bulb up to the switch as it is a little screwy the way I want to do it. This is because I am wanting to put the switch between the capacitor for the ballast and the bulb instead of simply controlling power to the entire ballast by installing it in front of the ballast. Its weird... I am going to call Howard Ballast (company that built my MH ballast) and ask them if I can even do this.

So I will give you the basic instructions on how to wire the switch to the fluorescent fixture. That is much easier.

For the fluorescent fixture, I purchased a 3 prong 16 gauge extension cord and cut the female end off the cord. Then I stripped off a few inches of insulation to reveal the black, white, and green wires and then stripped those wires. I then connected the black wire of the extension cord to the bottom screw of the switch (it should say "LINE"). I then had to connect another black wire (spare wire I had laying around) to the top screw (it should say "LOAD"). Lastly I connected the green wire coming out of the extension cord to the green screw on the switch labeled "GROUND".

After the switch is wired you then need to take the black wire you connected to the top screw on the switch ("LOAD") and connect it to the black wire on the fluorescent ballast. Lastly, the white wire on the ballast is connected to the white wire on the extension cord. The white wire bypasses the switch completely as it is the neutral wire.

The extension cord uses stranded copper wire. Your not supposed to use stranded copper wiring when wiring outlets, switches, etc... However, it works fine for our purposes.

Hope this helps you some. Let me know if you need anything else.
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Old 02-22-2004, 05:46 PM   #16
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thanks for the help! good luck on the rest of the project
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