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Old 02-13-2011, 06:03 PM   #1
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Yet another sump thread! Yea!

Howdy!

In preparation for my new 90g tank I am trying to nail down my sump. I'm going to use my old 55g tank as the sump. I will be building my own stand once I have all the preliminary measurements down to make sure I'm fine with height/etc. I appreciate any advice.

Keep in mind that after my tank is established (8-10 months) I would love to get a mandarine. I'm would like to setup my sump now to help support that future growth. Here is what I have thought of (using paint!):



In the thought of future growth for pods I can make the live rock rubble section 16" wide and the skimmer section 8" wide. I can also adjuster other things if I need a larger return section.

I would also place two heaters in the return section, at least that is where I would think it would go. The return pump is a Mag 9.5. It is a custom made skimmer for a 125g tank.

Thanks!
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:03 PM   #2
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Looks like a good plan you have there. Look forward to your sump build as I will be doing the same in a couple weeks and watching others build theirs always helps. Also looking forward to some pics of the tank and your stand build. Good luck.
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:11 PM   #3
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you could put heaters in the intake, and/or skimmer sections too, as well as the sand bed section. the return section is the only place i wouldn't keep heaters due to it's constant fluctuation. also, you may get some microbubbles from the water toppling over the partition between the sand bed and the return area, depending on the gph going over there.

i would also put the skimmer in the intake section, not after the live rock. the reason is, i don't want to skim that water and the pods out of it. i would want the pods to have only 1 pump they'd have to get through in order to make it back to the display.
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:18 AM   #4
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Good idea Mr X. I think I will re-design it with the skimmer in the intake and move the live rock over. I actually designed it backwards as I wanted the return on the left side as the drain/return for the tank is on the left side of the tank. I'll also move the heaters to another part.

Hmmm... let me get to cracking on a 2nd design.
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:28 AM   #5
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following along
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Old 02-14-2011, 05:22 AM   #6
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Ok, here is sump mark two. Wasn't sure how high the baffles should be so here is a guess at 14". The tank is around 19" tall so that should give plenty of room in case of the power going out. The bubble trap is 1.5" off the bottom in the middle and 1" apart.

EDIT: The drawing says check valves... I meant ball valves to adjust flow or close off the sump.



This will put the return closer to where it is in the tank so I can have it just about straight up/down. The intake into the sump will have to have some angles. Is it preferred this way, or better to have the intake straight down and the angles on the return? I do not know what the GPH is on the drain, it is a single down pipe that looked to be 1.5" in diameter but haven't measured it and the tank isn't at my house right now so I can't measure it.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:06 AM   #7
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if it's 1.5" it's probably able to handle 1200gph or so.
i wouldn't add the check valves. they are not 100% effective. a little slime or feather duster or starfish in it and it will continue to leak.. you are better served planning the returns so that they break siphon quickly after a power outage.
also, the split to the DSB i would want with a ball valve, not a check valve.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:41 AM   #8
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Ah you know what, I have ball valve in the first drawing and have check valve for the second. I meant ball valve for all. I had a 101.5 fever and was not doing well when doing that second drawing! The idea with the ball valves was to be able to close off the sump so they will stay in there, just labeled it wrong.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:22 AM   #9
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Anyone have any thoughts on if the 14" tall baffles are good? Or if any should be higher/lower than others, like having the fuge walls at 16-17" since the only water going into it is from the pump and if the power goes out it won't overflow.

Also, I do plan to have macro in the fuge with a light... is it Chaeto?

I was also thinking of having the heaters with the skimmer instead of the live rock as if something needs to be adjuster I don't want to dig through the live rock to get at them.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:25 PM   #10
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your partitions can be as tall as you want them, but you may have to build a stand to keep the skimmer in 8-10" of water. that's what i did-
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