4 days into cycle stuff growing plus a question

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harmy4993

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ok im on day four of my cycle. no nitrite readings yet should be real soon im guessing. anyways i have something that is brown in color about 2-3 mm long growing on my small peice of driftwood i got from another tank. is it something i should wory about at this point or just let it be for now.

my other question is besides testing for ammonia, nitirite, nitirate, and ph what else should i be testing for in a planted tank once i plant. i plan on having a semi heavly planted tank. will have 2.2wpg and co2.
 
New tank? Sounds like diatoms - normal for new tanks. It's an algae that feeds on silicates.

Depends on your fertilization method as to what you should test for. WHen I started I tested for the above plus phosphate. You'll also want a kH kit to be able to determine your CO2 levels.
 
I had some brown stuff that showed up at one point too. From what I've read around, it just means that stuff is starting to grow in your tank and that's a good thing.

The other thing you might want to test is your water hardness. If I understand things right, if you have really soft water, you might be missing some minerals etc that plants need. Conversely some plants need softer water.
 
I had some brown stuff that showed up at one point too. From what I've read around, it just means that stuff is starting to grow in your tank and that's a good thing.

The other thing you might want to test is your water hardness. If I understand things right, if you have really soft water, you might be missing some minerals etc that plants need. Conversely some plants need softer water.

i dunno if im right about this but water hardness is ph level? if so my ph is 8.2 right now( just added a large peice of driftwood which will bring that down a little) and my tap ph is also 8.2. so if the drift wood drops the ph it will prolly drop to 8.0 im guessing then the co2 will drop it to about 7.0-7.4ish. if ph isnt water hardness then i have no idea lol.
 
hardness is a measure of the amount of minerals, ores, etc in your water. Some people have water that is relatively close to pure H2O, soft water. Other's water contains lots of disolved minerals, ores, etc. People who have hard water have to use a lot of soap and shampoo to get a good 'suds' then they travel to some place with soft water and spend the next two days trying to get the normal 'dose' of shampoo out of their hair because the water is so soft.

Those minerals etc can either be necessary for plants to thrive by providing necessary nutrients or those same minerals could be toxic to other plants.

I wish I could describe this better, alas, this is all I know on the subject. LOL.
 
hardness is a measure of the amount of minerals, ores, etc in your water. Some people have water that is relatively close to pure H2O, soft water. Other's water contains lots of disolved minerals, ores, etc. People who have hard water have to use a lot of soap and shampoo to get a good 'suds' then they travel to some place with soft water and spend the next two days trying to get the normal 'dose' of shampoo out of their hair because the water is so soft.

Those minerals etc can either be necessary for plants to thrive by providing necessary nutrients or those same minerals could be toxic to other plants.

I wish I could describe this better, alas, this is all I know on the subject. LOL.
so basically the more extra material water has the harderthe water is. im assuming there are things you can do to the water to make it harder or softer to be able to grow the plants you want? or do you pretty much find out what your water is and select plants based on that.

and sorry last question ( for now) does water hardness effect the fish at all?
 
PH just needs to be stable, mine is 8.0 and have not had any issues. All the LFS in my area have the same PH and the only tank they alter the pH for is for discus. Most fish will adapt and do well in many PH's, if there wild caught fish then they may be a little harder to acclimate.

Hardness is the buffering of the water, little to no buffer and PH can fluctuate/change or even crash. Since stability is what you want then its good to have buffer in your water.

Crushed Coral will raise and buffer the PH, I think it only raises the PH to ~7.8 area.

Peat lowers PH

Please do Not use chemicals to alter the PH as with out very very careful monitoring it will eventually crash.

Now on the CO2 it does lower the PH and fish are fine with it, I'm not exactly sure on the reason its OK. I think PH altered by CO2 is more of a false PH. Like My tap water is 7.4 out of the tap due to co2, then when it sits out or in the tank, it returns back to 8.0 because the CO2 is off gassed
 
Alkalinity is the measure of the waters ability to buffer, right? Off to google...

...back with answers and a clearer picture (and info to share):

Q. What is the difference between water alkalinity and general hardness? Why do I need to test these parameters?
A. Alkalinity, often referred to as "carbonate hardness," or German carbonate hardness, is the measure of carbonate and bicarbonate concentrations in your aquarium water. Alkalinity is a measure of the ability of a solution to neutralize acid without changing the pH. It both controls and maintains water pH. Carbonate hardness is measured in degrees (dKH), parts per million of calcium carbonate (ppm CaCo3), or milliequivalents per liter (meq/L). You should perform regular tests for alkalinity, because a low alkalinity can allow water pH to fluctuate, and cause undue stress for aquarium inhabitants.

In contrast to carbonate hardness, general hardness is the measurement of the total dissolved minerals in your aquarium water. Test kits generally measure the amount of calcium and magnesium salts present, and the result is expressed in degrees dH or dGH. This parameter is not critical in most aquariums, except those containing fish and plants with special requirements. For example, depending upon the types of plants, a freshwater planted aquarium may require soft water with a low general hardness in the range of 3-5 dH. Conversely, an African Cichlid aquarium requires water with a higher general hardness range of 10-15 dH. Saltwater is not tested for general hardness because calcium and magnesium levels are tested separately. Common terms for water hardness are somewhat arbitrary, but generally fall within the dH ranges shown in the table.

Differences Between Water Alkalinity and Hardness

BTW: a buffer is a solution that contains either a weak acid and the base of that same acid, or a weak base and the acid of that same base. The purpose of a buffer is to keep the pH of the solution constant. Some buffers will keep the solution acidic, some neutral, and some basic. That's why you see chemical buffers for different pH ranges. The base part of the buffer will bind up a certain percentage of H+ ions that would otherwise cause the solution to become acidic (i.e. the pH would decrease). The acid part of the buffer will bind up a certain percentage of -OH ions that would otherwise cause the solution to become basic (i.e. the pH would increase).

A substance like crushed coral raises the pH by either absorbing H+ or releasing -OH (or maybe both). Same with peat or drift wood but they lower the pH by doing the opposite.

Thus having a high alkalinity is good because that means you have something in your water that is a good buffer and will absorb lots of ions that otherwise could quickly change your pH. For example: Ammonia is a base. In water, Ammonia steals one H from water to become Ammonium leaving an -OH behind. Thus, in an uncycled tank, as the ammonia builds up, the -OH concentration builds up, and the pH will rise too if the alkalinity of the water is low. If the alkalinity of the water is high, the buffer in the water is able to absorb a lot of the -OH ions and the pH can remain stable.

(I hope I didn't just totally confuse you!!!!)
 
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Since you're just getting started out with plants, you will probably be selecting fairly common species that can grow in just about any water type commonly found in aquariums. It's only as you get bitten hard by the planted aquarium bug and start growing really rare plants that you might need to look into setting up an aquarium with softwater.
 
i found a test kit at petco that tests 9 diffrent things made by red sea. would that be a good test kit to test the stuff my api test kit doesnt cover?
 
The RedSea testkits are good. The Phosphate one is actually just about as good as a professional grade kit actually. For a planted aquarium you'll want: Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphate, KH, GH, pH. Don't bother with an Iron test kit as it won't be accurate at the levels we're dosing. They also don't make a Potassium hobby grade kit that I've heard of yet.

If you are at all inclined to DIY I'd recommend building a powered reactor over buying something less efficient and/or mor expensive. The Milwaukee regulator with solenoid is a pretty popular choice for the regulator, though some have had issues with it and it does have a breaking in period where you need to keep a close eye on it. I'm very happy with my custom built regulator from Rex Grigg. You can run your CO2 24/7 in which case the solenoid is unnecessary, run it only when the lights are on with a solenoid and timer, or controll the CO2 injection with a PH controller. Just a matter of picking which one fits your budget and habits.
 
i agree dont worry about ph its not that high and if u mess with it u will allways have to adjust when you do water changes most the time will go right back to what u started with unless u going to use co2 most hardy plants will be ok
 
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i agree dont worry about ph its not that high and if u mess with it u will allways have to adjust when u do water changes most the time will go right back to what u started with unless u going to use co2 most hardy plants ill be ok
im not really worried about what my ph is per say. ive read as long as its constant it doesnt mattr to much. i do plan on adding co2 thou. i have read with co2 you want a little higher ph to start with which it appears i have.

at this stage im just waiting for my tank to cycle( or actually waiting for nitrites to start appearing) so im looking at equipment like what light kit, co2 equipment and test kits i will need for the plantsand what ferts im going to end up needing.

i have my light kit choices down to 2. one online and one at my lfs. co2 im kinda lost on but reading alot about so hopefully i can figure that out soon. and test kits i have the api test kit just needto fill in the ones needed for plants. and ferts i havent even started researching yet but i have time.
 
for ferts it cheaper in the long run to use dry ferts, the combo pack here is what you would need
Fertilizers For The Planted Tank | Ferts

you also can get similar here
Shop online at AquariumFertilizer.com


thanks for the links. i found this while looking at the ferts

Dosing suggestion:

  • 20-40 gallon tank:
  • 50% water change each week
  • ¼ teaspoon KNO3 three times a week
  • 1/16th teaspoon KH2PO4 three times a week*
  • 1/8th teaspoon K2SO4 three times a week
  • 5 ml Plantex CSM+B three times a week (do not dose with KH2PO4)
  • 1-2 ml Iron three times a week (do not dose with KH2PO4)
im guessing that pretty much what i want to strive for? except seems 50% water change is extreme or is that needed for planted aquariums?
 
That seems like the "EI" method of dosing which many use, in that case the 50% is pretty much required/ highly recommended. Heres more info on that:

EI light: for those less techy folks - Aquarium Plants - Barr Report

That method is kind of over dosing to make sure you have enough ferts(and nothing bottoms out), then doing large water changes to basically re zero/reset it out before dosing more. It takes out watever fert is least used and dilutes it back to almost zero, that way your not overdosing one thing and you wouldnt know unless you had a test for it.

Its either that or having test kits for everything your dosing, measure them and find out exactly how much of each fert you really need. Then you would not need the large water change.

So its easier for most to just use the EI method and do the 50% water change
 
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