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Old 08-26-2006, 02:44 AM   #1
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55 gal help

Ok so I have a 55 gal tank i want to set up for plants. I plan on having 4 55 watt lights for a total of 4 wpg. I was wondering if there was a set up i could do that takes the water out of the main tank, filters it, heats it and adds co2 then pumps it back into the tank to minumize clutter in the tank. What would the best set up for me be. Thanks
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Old 08-26-2006, 03:30 AM   #2
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I have heard of such things. I know inline heaters exist and some use canister filters as CO2 diffusers and I think there are inline diffusers but they would all be pressurized, which you need for a 55 anyway. Should be easy to find at www.bigalsonline.com
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Old 08-26-2006, 03:58 AM   #3
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Here's a setup:

XP3 Filter
http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS...canisterfilter

Hydor ETH 300 Inline Heater
http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS...lineheater300w

Then you could do a DIY inline reactor on the intake of the filter. Or you could place a glass diffuser directly under the intake of the filter.

So that leaves you with just the intake and output in the tank and nothing else.
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Old 08-26-2006, 01:20 PM   #4
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For a 55 gallon you only need the ETH 200. I use one on my 72g and it keeps the water at the set temperature. I used to use the ETH300 on my old 55 and it was really overkill.

Other than that, lonewolf is spot on. In-line Heater, Cannister Filter, and In-line CO2 reactor.

From the lighting (WPG) and CO2, the day you turn on that light, have the CO2 going and be ready with Macro and Micro ferts. If this is your first shot at plants, then that setup is like you are about to jump onto a Double Black diamond slope, and you have never been skiiing before.

Here is my old 55. It had 4x 65watts, inline heater, inline Co2, and inline U/V. The only thing in the tank is the intake and outflow for the filter. you can see the intake on the right side (gray tube). I later replaced that with a black tube which is nearly invisible against the black background.
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Old 08-26-2006, 01:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zezmo
For a 55 gallon you only need the ETH 200. I use one on my 72g and it keeps the water at the set temperature. I used to use the ETH300 on my old 55 and it was really overkill.

Other than that, lonewolf is spot on. In-line Heater, Cannister Filter, and In-line CO2 reactor.

From the lighting (WPG) and CO2, the day you turn on that light, have the CO2 going and be ready with Macro and Micro ferts. If this is your first shot at plants, then that setup is like you are about to jump onto a Double Black diamond slope, and you have never been skiiing before.

Here is my old 55. It had 4x 65watts, inline heater, inline Co2, and inline U/V. The only thing in the tank is the intake and outflow for the filter. you can see the intake on the right side (gray tube). I later replaced that with a black tube which is nearly invisible against the black background.
Actually, the ETH 300 worked great for me, and allowed my upgrade to be possible to my 75G without buying a new heater, as I had a submersable already and the Emperor 400, which is on my 55G now. But if no plans to upgrade later, then one thing to keep in mine when going with the smaller heater. There are 2 models, and 2 different fitting sizes. The ETH 200 is 1/2 inch and the ETH 201 is 5/8 inch. I have the ETH 201 on my XP2. The XP filters are all 5/8 inch fittings.
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Old 08-26-2006, 02:03 PM   #6
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Oh yah, the 300 is a great unit and works perfectly. I went with the 200 on the 72 just for the smaller fitting size. What I found was that it holds my water at a steady 82 deg without issue.
I once read that it is better to go with too few watts than too many. The thought being about how much you can cook your fish when (not if IME) the heater fails.
I had the "opportunity" to try the 200 because the 300 died on me. My wife called me at work saying there was a pop and some smoke from behind my tank, and now it smells like burn plastic. Er, I told her to just unplug everything until I got home.
Well that pop was the old heater dieing when some water dripped down into it. The water ran down the hose and into the heater. So the outside of these is not water resistant.
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Old 08-26-2006, 11:03 PM   #7
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Yup, completely agree with you, the Hydor ETH's, no matter which you get, are both excellent heaters. And for stability, none of my submersables even come close.
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Old 08-27-2006, 02:33 PM   #8
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WHta would I need for the co2? Just a tank, a regulator, and an in-line reactor? Is there any specific brand anyone would recomend?
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Old 08-27-2006, 03:06 PM   #9
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You would need the tank, a regulator combo which includes a soleniod, needle valve, and bubble counter, and the inline reactor. Then a ph controller is an option, but not necessary.
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