A new method for CO2?

[Momotaro]

First things first, this is a friendly conversation! We can't sit and talk face to face, so a lot of the little nuances are lost.

You honestly believe it was the 30ppm CO2 level that eliminated the algae in your aquarium? Solely the CO2 level? Nothing else? You think it had nothing to do with your aquarium finding it's balance? Getting the fertilizers just right? Only the 30ppm of CO2?

If you haven't had a hint of BBA, well...

If by this you are implying that I just got lucky in avoiding BBA because I maintain lower levels of CO2, you are quite mistaken. I have grown E. stellata, P. stellatus, B. japonica, Blyxa species "Vietnam", L. aromaticoides, A. senegalensis and Nessaea species in 15ppm of CO2. All of the plants we 100% algae free.

See, the message I am getting from you is that 30ppm of CO2 is the "magic anti algae bullet". You are giving the impression that if a person maintains a CO2 level of 30ppm of CO2 in their aquarium, they will not have any algae issues. None whatsoever. Despite lighting, water parameters, water circulation, fertilizing regime, plant load, or fish load, maintaining a CO2 level will prevent algae from rearing it's head. That is not true.

Now on the other hand, the old way of thinking in Europe I believe was much more on the low side for C02, like 10 to 15ppm.

I have been called old fashioned and stubborn Robert!!

Mike

 

[malkore]

yep, mg/l and ppm are interchangable...they just express the same quantity in different values.

Also, I can attest that once, in my first week of CO2 injection, i had CO2 up to 85ppm. I lost one tiny yo-yo loach...the rest of my 20+ fish were fine.
I'm smarter now about dialing in CO2 on the needle valve, and maintain 22ppm in the day time, and not over 30ppm at night (thanks to a KH of 8 degrees)

 

[betowess]

Well, I was stating my experience with CO2 at plus 30ppm to control BBA. I never stated it was the only thing which eliminated algae. I think we all strive for that "balance" for a healthy tank. Yet we all have different water parameters in different parts of the country. So a common baseline is impossible to achieve. Nonetheless, I maintain that a 30ppm CO2 level is what successfully controled BBA in my tank with this nasty algae. I still have bits of BBA, but its check mated and this formula works for me.

 

[TankGirl]

Right - there are unknown factors in every tank that influence things, and we just try to control the known factors.

I think the anectodal evidence Betowess relayed about his experience with BBA is extremely valuable, but ultimately all I need to do is get better control of my CO2 and raise the concentration and see what happens. If I continue to have BBA then I will learn that this was not the factor responsible. Others might find this not to be the solution to their BBA problem but it makes sense in my situation.

I too monitor every parameter I can and try very hard to maintain them where I want them, based on my own trial and error and from suggestions I have gotten on the boards. My CO2 concentration seems to be my Achilles' heel at the moment, so that's where I'll focus my attentions.

Dogma and "rules" abound in this hobby and are always subject for debate, and that's a good thing because we won't continue to learn anything if we don't hash it out.

 

[Gyration]

you mean the pressurized CO2 just goes boom? without the ticking? j/k

 

[sunni]

I bought one of these, but I could send it back (not in use yet). The reason I was interested is because I am totally confused and mysitifed my the CO2 tank method.

Could someone talk me through how to set one up and what I need, I have a 75 gallon and 58 gallon.

 

[Guest]

If you want to run both tanks from one cylinder and the tanks are close together then you need a cylinder, regulator, manifold, two needle valves, two reactors, two bubble counter, tubing, and assorted small threaded pipe and fittings. You can set the whole thing up for around $150 if you are willing to build your own bubble counters and reactors.

You are best off buying the cylinder locally. See my FAQ for ideas on where to find cylinders. For running two tanks the size of those that you have I would recommend a 20 lb cylinder.

You will need a standard beverage regulator. See this link http://www.kegworks.com/shoppingcart/customer/home.php?cat=427 the top item is what you want.

Then you need two Clippard MNV-4K needle valves, a manifold, plugs for the manifold, and in my system 1/8" brass pipe. Go to www.clippard.com to find your local distributor. They should be able to provide you with the needle valves, a simple bar stock manifold, mine is made my FabCo and the plugs for the manifold. The brass pipe is found at Home Depot. You will also need some pipe joint compound to seal the threads on the pipe fittings.

While at Home Depot you can find most of the items you need to build your reactors. See my FAQ for a picture of my DIY reactor and bubble counter. Anyone that has some basic tools and ability can assemble everything in a couple of hours. You do have to wait a couple of days before you use the reactors to give the cement time to dry though.

If you have more detailed questions ask away.