Algae

[aqua_chem]

I agree with the light being the issue, although I disagree that the 12000K bulb is a problem. 12000K bulbs have emissions in the ranges that plant needs, but their overall color is a bit more blue, which, aesthetically speaking, isn't very attractive in FW for most people. I would at least reduce the light to 2 bulbs (never 4) and see if you see any improvement. Also start spot treating your algae with either excel or peroxide to help get rid of whatever you have, or just snip it off (probably the better option).


Also, I do a 50% WC every weak, and have done back-to-back 70% water changes. As long as you have good WC technique (matching temp, dechlor, etc), it's pretty hard to even phase fish with WCs.

 

[jacpr233]

Thx. I just purchased the test kit and the amonnia

 

[Paxdaddy]

totally agree with the 50% water change not being a problem. I also do 50% weekly and when I had ich I was doing 50% water changes back to back every 3 to 4 days with no problems at all. Like aqua chem said. Just make sure the water you are putting in is as close to the same temp as possible and you use dechlorinator.

 

[jacpr233]

The ammonia is 0 ppm, Ph is between 7.4 or 7.6 and nitrite is 0 ppm. If this is not a factor for algae. What could it be?

 

[CorallineAlgae]

The ammonia is 0 ppm, Ph is between 7.4 or 7.6 and nitrite is 0 ppm. If this is not a factor for algae. What could it be?

Could be to much light, high nitrate, or a combo of both.

NitrAte is what you want to test for in this case. Ammonia and nitrite testing lets you know if your filter is working properly to keep your fish safe. Nitrate tests let you know, more or less, if your water changing schedule is aggressive enough to keep up with your bioload and feeding. If your nitrate levels are above 20ppm you will know right away that your system could use larger or more frequent water changes.

Lots of other things could cause excessive nitrates or algae blooms in general: over feeding, to many fish, fish are out growing the tank, poor substrate maintenance, low water flow, etc. Testing for nitrates is just way way important. Knowing the actual level can tell you a lot. I tested my own tank a couple hours ago.

 

[jacpr233]

Thx for the info. I will buy the nitrAte test tomorrow. How can I clean the substrate when there is plants and all the bio in it? Would that affect my Corys, plecos, otos, zebra snails and clams I have as bottom feeders

 

[jacpr233]

Is my fish stock too big for my 72 gal?

Bala shark 3
Serpea tetra 6
Penguin tetra 1
Zebra danios 6
Sterbai Cory 1
Odessa barb 2
Zebra snails 2
Rasboras 4
Bloodfins 4
Cory metae 2
Neon tetras 10
Black neon tetra 2
Unknown barb 3
Pleco 1
Siamese algae eaters 6
Clams 2
Otos 4

 

[Daxhua]

Too much nitrates, phosphates and liquid ferts is going to benefit the algae more than your plants. Most of your plants are heavy root feeders try using fert root tabs, stop using comprehensive at least for a little while
If your nitrate level is high stop dosing nitrogen.
Might want to get a phosphate test kit if phosphate level is high then stop adding phosphates.
Try increasing your daily excel dosage it will help fight algae, it will benefit your plants, and it won't hurt your fish.
I have a 54gal and I dose 15ml of excel daily that's 3 full caps. It hasn't affected my fish in any negative way. Keep scraping off algae regularly so your plants can outcompete the algae, once your plants get a head start you should be fine.

 

[bigbanker]

As far as stocking I would say you are pushing it.... what size are your balas? What kind of pleco? Are all your fish juvenile or adults?

Also you've got a number of fish that should be kept in larger groups than your current numbers ... let me know if you want more info on that.

 

[Daxhua]

Thx for the info. I will buy the nitrAte test tomorrow. How can I clean the substrate when there is plants and all the bio in it? Would that affect my Corys, plecos, otos, zebra snails and clams I have as bottom feeders

With every water change use a gravel vacuum like Python or Aqueon to vacuum all your open areas around your plants and maybe underneath your driftwood. It won't affect your bottom feeders.

 

[jacpr233]

Thx. I was scared of killing the bb in the substrate

 

[Paxdaddy]

Thx. I was scared of killing the bb in the substrate

What I usually do is I just gravel vac half the tank each water change. Do one side one one week and do the other side the next week. Don't worry about the bb that way. It will give it time to repopulate. If you usually don't clean your gravel. You won't believe all the stuff that's down in there.

 

[jacpr233]

Should I vacuum just the top? Or suck all the substrate into the syphon and then let it go?

 

[reefdiver]

Burrie the vacuum in the gravel. That is why its best to do it by sections

 

[jacpr233]

Thx for the info.

 

[reefdiver]

Once you get most gunk out you start weekly and vacuum your awhole tank

 

[Paxdaddy]

Yeah get all the way down. If you haven't been cleaning your gravel then that could me contributing to the algae growth. All the fish waste And food that may not have been eaten is being broken down and turned to nitrates

 

[jacpr233]

Ok I already purchased the syphon while working. I will do water change when I get home tonight. I'm going to scrape the algae then syphon the substrate.