Algae or Somthing Else (Detailed Explanation)

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Swapped bulbs!

hey guys:
Just swapped the bulb. Currently up till now I was using the bulb with top image, swapped it with the bulb of bottom image, seems less green and more red in the bottom bulb. Pls. suggest. (again pls click on the image to make it readable).
 

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Took the shot.......... (Aaaaah!)

Hey folks:

Following are my changes:
1. Raised my dKH to 15 - So as to attain proper CO2 ppm i.e 29+ at pH of 7.1 (as suggested by Caliban07)
2. Changed to HPS bulb - To get more red spectrum, and it has 30,000 more Lumens.
3. Light Intensity 75% and for 8 hrs stretch - 9:30am to 5:30pm (as suggested by Bert2oo1)

After making the above changes my observations after 8 hours are:
a. Sporadic Pearling right after 5 minutes of Light On. This effect continued for entire 8 hours.
b. Plants are looking healthy at the end of the day (just looking more 'Alive')
c. Oxygen or CO2 bubbles on the wall, but no Algae visible yet (phew!)
d. It could be my imagination, but the fishes seems to be more happy

In future if I do not see an Algae bloom for next 3-4 days:
i) Raise the light intensity from 75% to 100%

Thanks again Bert2oo1 & Caliban07 for the interest and guidance..... I will keep updating my observations for at least couple of weeks.

Summary for other readers: My problem is hopefully resolved by providing CO2 at 29+ppm, and increasing light intensity from 50% to 75% with a span of continuous 8 hours straight without breaks.
 

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Hey folks:

Following are my changes:
1. Raised my dKH to 15 - So as to attain proper CO2 ppm i.e 29+ at pH of 7.1 (as suggested by Caliban07)
2. Changed to HPS bulb - To get more red spectrum, and it has 30,000 more Lumens.
3. Light Intensity 75% and for 8 hrs stretch - 9:30am to 5:30pm (as suggested by Bert2oo1)

After making the above changes my observations after 8 hours are:
a. Sporadic Pearling right after 5 minutes of Light On. This effect continued for entire 8 hours.
b. Plants are looking healthy at the end of the day (just looking more 'Alive')
c. Oxygen or CO2 bubbles on the wall, but no Algae visible yet (phew!)
d. It could be my imagination, but the fishes seems to be more happy

In future if I do not see an Algae bloom for next 3-4 days:
i) Raise the light intensity from 75% to 100%

Thanks again Bert2oo1 & Caliban07 for the interest and guidance..... I will keep updating my observations for at least couple of weeks.

Summary for other readers: My problem is hopefully resolved by providing CO2 at 29+ppm, and increasing light intensity from 50% to 75% with a span of continuous 8 hours straight without breaks.


Hi chat all sounds good except that it is impossible to increase co2 levels by manipulating dKH. It doesn't work that way.

Having said that if your tank is doing better that is good. If it starts to struggle turn co2 up.
 
If problems occur I'd say lower the light to 50% again but maintain the high level of co2
 
Day Three Progress/Setback.... :D

When changed light intensity from 75% to 100%, within 4 hrs developed green spot algae on wall area near the CO2 diffuser. So moved back to 75% intensity. The CO2 was maintained as per 15 kDH @ 7.1 pH i.e. between 28 - 34 ppm of CO2. NO3 = 10, PO4 = 1 and TDS 615. Other than that, plants are looking much healthier. Attached day 3 pic.
 

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When changed light intensity from 75% to 100%, within 4 hrs developed green spot algae on wall area near the CO2 diffuser. So moved back to 75% intensity. The CO2 was maintained as per 15 kDH @ 7.1 pH i.e. between 28 - 34 ppm of CO2. NO3 = 10, PO4 = 1 and TDS 615. Other than that, plants are looking much healthier. Attached day 3 pic.


Hi Chat. Glad things have improved. Just remember that in a theoretical sense 15dKH and pH 7.1 does equal 28-34ppm co2 but this does not apply to your tank. The chart over estimates the co2 because the chart assumes that the only impact on ph IS CARBON DIOXIDE and the only impact on dKH ARE CARBONATES but in your tank these are many other acids and ions that make up KH. So you probably have less than 28-34ppm co2.

I know you like charts but this one is no use[emoji39]

Increasing phosphates helps to stop the algae appearing on the glass if it is the green spotty type.
 
Day Four Progress/Observation

Upped the NO3 from 10 to 20, PO4 from 1 to 2, KH from 15 to 17, GH 8 to 11........ so going on full throttle (y), tomorrow I am going to add Flourish Comprehensive 5 ml. and repeat this cycle after every two days.... Also do a 33% water change after a week.

Observed very few leaves floating in tank...... Pearling randomly and slowly from various plants.

Caliban07: Give me the solution dear, so if my method of calibrating CO2 is wrong then what is the right procedure (kindly dont throw a long article link on me). "How would you measure CO2 concentration if it was you being in my environment?".

Regards;
 

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I'd just crank the co2 till your fish act funny and then dial it back a tad then u know your at the max u can pump in
 
Upped the NO3 from 10 to 20, PO4 from 1 to 2, KH from 15 to 17, GH 8 to 11........ so going on full throttle, tomorrow I am going to add Flourish Comprehensive 5 ml. and repeat this cycle after every two days.... Also do a 33% water change after a week.

Observed very few leaves floating in tank...... Pearling randomly and slowly from various plants.

Caliban07: Give me the solution (hahaha), so if my method of calibrating CO2 is wrong then what is the right procedure (pls. dont throw a long article link on me). What I need to measure and how is all I ask.
Regards;


It's pretty simple. You turn co2 up very slowly until you see no more problems with algae and the plants are happy and vibrant. Try not to chase pearling. Just focus on good plant health.

I'm in the camp that starts low and goes high. I have never seen my fish suffer as a result of co2 and would never push it to that point deliberately.

You don't need to increase dKH any more. Upping nitrates and phosphates was a good call.

You can use a drop checker to measure Co2 or a ph pen. Both are rough estimations but better than the chart because the only gas allowed in to the drop checker is co2 (carbonic acid in water) and the solution in the drop checker is a KNOWN dKH value that has been made up of carbonates so what you are reading from the chart is happening in the drop checker but the drop checker responds slowly and the colours can be open to interpretation and may change depending on placement.

The ph pen method is tricky and the pen will need calibrating often to remain fairly accurate.

I've just set my new tank up. I don't know what my dKH is or my PH. I dose nitrates, phosphates, potassium and the trace elements fairly on point. I keep control of my lighting and play around with my co2. My flow is exceptional and my co2 distribution is good. I allow a gently ripple on the surface to allow movement of o2. I may lose some co2 this way but I just turn it up to compensate. Oxygen is more important for the fishes.

Here is a video of my new tank.

https://youtu.be/g54_E2RoLro

You can seen the small micro bubbles of co2 mixing and the larger bubbles coming up from the plants. You should be able to make out an amano shrimp going about his business and some ottos at the back. You can see the sway in the plants.

It doesn't really get more technical than that. If my plants are doing poorly and I'm getting algae I'm going to turn the co2 up. What else can it be? I'm dosing EI and have good flow. I could turn the light down but I want a carpet some time soon. Has to be co2.

Remember, your tank is larger. You have more plants and faster growing plants that use more co2. It's harder to get the co2 to dissolve in a larger tank. Harder to reach all areas with flow. Harder to keep the tank clean. You have to consider all these things.

Hope this helps and things continue to improve for you.
 
Bert2oo1: Hey buddy, I have Amano shrimps which may turn blue, suffocate and die before any fish feels nauseating..... Hahaha. Shrimps mostly stay hidden, so hard to know what happens to them.

Caliban07: Nice video, it will be a beauty once your plants cover up the ground. Thanks.
 
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