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Old 03-29-2014, 12:13 PM   #11
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Great info, so its Rhizoclonium, so i have been dosing, though not over dosing, with excel so i hope that will take care of it.m o2 levels being low, will have to do some research on that!

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Old 03-29-2014, 12:36 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Rivercats View Post
Unless you have an ongoing diatom issue you really shouldn't use any type of phosphate remover in a planted tank. Phosphate is a macro nutrient that plants need. Liquid carbons do not contain phosphates and aid in photosynthesis and growth. Use them at a rate of 1ml liquid carbon to every 2 gallons of water. It's hard to tell from the picture what type of algae you have but here is a good picture guide for you to look at and compare to the type algae you have.... James' Planted Tank - Algae Guide. Run lighting only 6 hours daily or run it 3 hours, off 2, and on again for 3 or 4 hours. Using a siesta period works very well for algae control. You can also spot treat the algae with 3ml of Hydrogen peroxide 3% to every 1 gallon of tank water (unless you have delicate shrimp). Turn off filters, pull up the correct amount of peroxide and slowly squirt the algae. Leave filters off 20 minutes. Most algae begins dying off within 24 hours.
That is a very nice guide to keep at hand! Thanks for sharing. Hope you get yours under control OP.

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Old 03-30-2014, 07:04 PM   #13
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So here is my water chemistry after my last water change @ 1pm:

Ammonia, not detectable
Nitrite, not detectable
Nitrate, somewhere between 5-20 ppm.....i hate API nitrate test kits, colours are too close!
Ph, somewhere between 7.6 & 7.8, again $&@ API colour cards!
Phosphate, .25-.50 ppm
Copper, not detectable
Kh, 6dKh or 107 ppm

Algae so far has not come back so i would say that Flourish Excel works as advertised so far, will update in a week just to make sure.

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algae, problem

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