Algae Problem In a Planted Tank
- Thread starter Koopa_34
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Lonewolfblue
Aquarium Advice Addict
Actually, for a planted tank, you want to keep nitrate levels between 10-20ppm, and phosphate between 1-1.5ppm. In a more heavily planted tank, you will have to dose nitrates and phosphates, as the plants will use more than what your fish will produce.
Koopa - For a non-planted tank you are correct, it's important to keep Nitrates and Phosphates low. This is because they are nutrients for algae as well as plants. Since in a non-planted tank there is nothing to complete with the algae for those nutrients, the goal is to keep them as low as possible. With a planted tank you need to make sure that your plants have enough nutrients to out complete algae. In many tanks, especially those with high light, it is very common to have to dose them to keep the levels high enough to provide a tank fully of healthy plants with minimal algae.
What are some suggestion on where to get ferts with potassium, phosphates, and nitrates because most ferts i see says that they dont have phosphates in them, and what are some good brands of ferts. Also from my last comment i had on co2 systems can i get opinions on a system with a ph controller or a system that is just on a timer
For the most part you aren't going to find you them at your LFS unless you ask them to special order them for you. The Flourish line of ferts (Flourish Comprehensive, Flourish Nitrogen, Flourish Phosphorus, and Flourish Potassium) are quite good. These are also available from online places like www.drsfostersmith.com, www.thatpetplace.com, and www.bigalsonline.com. They can get a bit pricy when used on larger tanks. You can also order dry ferts (CSM+B, KNO3, K2SO4, and KH2PO4) from www.gregwatson.com. Greg's ferts are very reasonalby priced and will last you a LONG time.
I know dry ferts last longer, but what is more recommend dry or liquid and what is more safer to mess around with and i still need an a opinion on the co2 system. How can you tell with potassium if you need to add more or if you need to reduce it.
Dry ferts and liquid ferts are equally good and safe. It's more a matter of preference and cost that determines which most people use. Liquid ferts are just a premixed solution of dry ferts. You have a little more flexibility with the dry ferts since you can dose them dry or mix a solution with your choice of concentration. If you go with liquid ferts it's important to stick with a good brand especially for the Micro ferts. Many brands doen't have as good a mix of ratios on the Micro ferts and may even be misssing some altogether. The Flourish line is good and Tropica Master Grow is another good Mirco mix.
The only way to tell if you are dosing to much Potassium is through experimentation. You slowly reduce how much your are dosing a little less every couple of weeks until you start seeing Potassium deficiencies. Then dose a little bit more than where you saw the dificiency appear. Check out the following links for a description of what the various nutrient deficiency symptoms are.
Steve Hampton - Plant Deficiencies
Chuck Gadd - Plant Deficiencies
I'm using DIY CO2 so I can't give you any first hand experience with the various Pressurized setups. Again whether you use a timer or a PH controller is probably more preference than anything else. You could even just leave your CO2 running 24hrs a day. When I finally do go pressurized I plan to use a timer to gain savings on CO2 usage while minimizing the setup costs.
The only way to tell if you are dosing to much Potassium is through experimentation. You slowly reduce how much your are dosing a little less every couple of weeks until you start seeing Potassium deficiencies. Then dose a little bit more than where you saw the dificiency appear. Check out the following links for a description of what the various nutrient deficiency symptoms are.
Steve Hampton - Plant Deficiencies
Chuck Gadd - Plant Deficiencies
I'm using DIY CO2 so I can't give you any first hand experience with the various Pressurized setups. Again whether you use a timer or a PH controller is probably more preference than anything else. You could even just leave your CO2 running 24hrs a day. When I finally do go pressurized I plan to use a timer to gain savings on CO2 usage while minimizing the setup costs.
Lonewolfblue
Aquarium Advice Addict
Nitrates are a form of nitrogen. Also, nitrite and ammonia are a form of nitrogen as well. So if you have a planted tank, the plants will also consume any ammonia that is present, as well and nitrite and nitrate. But what you dose won't be the more toxic forms such as ammonia or nitrite, but nitrate instead, as it's much less toxic to fish. And you'll just be keeping the levels at 15-20ppm, so there's no harm to the tank whatsoever.
Lonewolfblue
Aquarium Advice Addict
Nitrates 10-15ppm, 20ppm max
Phosphates 1-1.5ppm
CO2 25ppm or higher.
No ammonia or nitrite for the fish.
Traces - Dose traces so Iron is .1ppm, and if deficiencies occur (depending on how heavily planted), bump to .2ppm.
Phosphates 1-1.5ppm
CO2 25ppm or higher.
No ammonia or nitrite for the fish.
Traces - Dose traces so Iron is .1ppm, and if deficiencies occur (depending on how heavily planted), bump to .2ppm.
what is a good trace and do they only make traces for iron or is there other traces that i have to get as well. So all i need to get for ferts is phosphates, potassium, nitrates and use Tropica master grow for my micro fert. Is tropica master grow consider a trace or is it just a micro fert. Also all i need to do after i have all the stuff that i need, im only going to have to measure my phosphates, nitrates, and iron. And with the micro fert i just do as directed on the bottle. I also have a question on tropica master grow. People that use it do they dilute it or do they just measure it out and throw the fert into the aquarium right out of the bottle
Traces and Micros are terms that mean the same thing, and Tropica Master Grow (TMG) is a great trace solution. You do care about more than Iron. You do not need to dilute TMG, and can rather just squeeze your dose into the dosing chamber and drop it into the tank directly.
However, TMG can get expensive quickly for your tank volume, and many dose 5mLs or so per 20gals to start. One suggestion is using Plantex CSM+B from gregwatson.com or another dry trace solution to supplement TMG. This way you get TMG's benefits (ability to keep Iron and traces available) while saving cost (by using Plantex to increase the concentration of traces).
However, TMG can get expensive quickly for your tank volume, and many dose 5mLs or so per 20gals to start. One suggestion is using Plantex CSM+B from gregwatson.com or another dry trace solution to supplement TMG. This way you get TMG's benefits (ability to keep Iron and traces available) while saving cost (by using Plantex to increase the concentration of traces).
Lonewolfblue
Aquarium Advice Addict
Mono Potassium Phosphate 1 lb. KH2PO4
CSM+B Plantex 1 lb
Potassium Sulfate 1 lb. K2SO4
Potassium Nitrate 1 lb. KNO3
Then if you think you might need extra:
Iron Chelate Sequestrene 10%
Magnesium Sulfate 1 lb.
CSM+B Plantex 1 lb
Potassium Sulfate 1 lb. K2SO4
Potassium Nitrate 1 lb. KNO3
Then if you think you might need extra:
Iron Chelate Sequestrene 10%
Magnesium Sulfate 1 lb.
Lonewolfblue
Aquarium Advice Addict
You don't. Both are in the CSM+B. But if you are dosing CSM+B and begin seeing an iron deficiency, then you can add a little Iron Chelate to the dosing of your traces until you see the deficiency going away. Same with the Magnesium. But usually the CSM+B will be enough in most cases.
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