Algae problems 55g
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The massive plant mass difference is due to me trying to remove algae from the tank. I really should remove more- any plant that is affected- but I am concerned with the effect it will have on my cycle. Thoughts?
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Fresh2o
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I understand the frustration of going from a system that was "on track" to something is a bit off. My CO2 tank ran out about 3 days ago and I am rewarded with a fine coating of hair algae on all of my plants. The only ones exempt are the new shoots of growth. Glut works on spot treating BBA but not so much green algae.
I wonder if the removal of the top growth in your tank allowed for more light penetrate to the substrate level and, thus, the emergence of algae.
I'm doing a modified PPS-Pro in which the nitrates are not in the macro mix. The fish (food/waste) are producing sufficient nitrates. Not saying that the increased nitrates are causing the issue, but they are not helping.
Keep up with the water changes to reduce the organics and add more crushed coral to the filter.
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Caliban07
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I agree and I also feel your pain, trust me. I was under the impression that the coral was already in. Your ph is almost certainly not helping matters. You must buffer that water with crushed coral. A cup or two should do the trick. Once your ph is stable you must remove all algae. Just manually remove it all. Discard any affected plants, soak hardscape and vacuum gravel. Many of times I've had everything out of the tank and have started again. Once the algae is all gone. You need to build up your co2. Use a ph pen to monitor the ph every hour. Aim for a few point drop at first and concentrate heavily on flow. Ensure all plants are swaying gently. Try to eliminate flow dead spots and continue with EI. Slowly build up plant mass and most importantly focus all your efforts on growing plants and the algae will not return. Make sure that ph does not fall so far. Keep co2 stable during the photo period. Reduce the light if need be or add floating plants to share them some if you think the light is too bright. Sounds like you have a plan. I'm almost certain your low ph has allowed this to happen.
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Caliban07
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What I found interesting is that when I stopped using co2 and adding EI ferts the nitrates and phosphates would build up by the end of the week through fish waste and fish food. When I resumed co2 and reverted to PPS-Pro (minus potassium) I can no longer get nitrates over 20ppm and the phosphates are a very light blue instead of dark blue. This just proves that healthy plants do actually remove these nutrients even in lower light settings. If my light was higher I am sure I would have to revert back to EI. I can further confirm removal of nutrients via my TDS reading that was always a steady 250ppm now falling to <230ppm. My point is that (as you know) when the plants receive adequate levels of co2 their uptake of nutrients does increase. It's just good for me that I can actually see this happening. Before PPS-Pro and just glut dosing, my ludwigia repens began to show pinholes in older leaves. Now the new leaves and the leaves about 4-5 down are still completely healthy. It really is just about finding the right balance.
My amazon swords are putting out crinkled new leaves and I noticed that they were in a flow 'dead spot' I have marginally increased co2 and reduce some of them surface agitation. I aimed the output of my secondary filter differently and now I can see the Amazon swords away gently. I fully expect them to recover.
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Morning ph: 6.4. Added some more baking soda. Will get crushed coral this weekend. I don't know what I was thinking with all these EI water changes- of course I should have increased by baking soda dose!
I will likely take a stab at this tank tomorrow morning. I blacked it out for today.
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I will likely take a stab at this tank tomorrow morning. I blacked it out for today.
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Caliban07
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Baking soda whilst better than nothing is too inconsistent. Good luck with the fix!
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Caliban07
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It depends how many leaves you have to sacrifice in order to make them algae free. Only you can decide on that one
you can still add more plants though. Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
I never seemed to have an issue with my cycle - ammonia and nitrites always measure zero. But I suppose this could have been an issue for a while as I have always been using baking soda as a buffer. What side effects could I expect with inconsistent ph, and how does algae scone into play with it?
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Caliban07
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Well all organisms have an Optimum ph. Your ph does not fare well with the bacteria responsible with the nitrogen cycle. They are always reproducing then dying then reproducing but they cannot reproduce at ph of 6 or even 6.4. The bacteria are also heavily reliant on carbonates which is kh (carbonate hardness) and so as a result you probably have no bacterial back up so if your plants are not receiving enough of what they need to grow then they are not taking up a
Ammonia which Is constantly being produced efficiently so algae take up the slack. Coral constantly replenishes carbonate as the ph drops the acid attacks the coral releasing carbonated which buffers the ph and keeps it steady. Bicarbonate of soda only lasts for as long as It is used up.
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Do I need to replace the crushed coral after a time to ensure its potency/effectiveness? I assume I should I expect my evening ph to be closer to morning ph after adding it-Right?
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Caliban07
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Yes I replace it now and then but I honestly couldn't give you a specific plan. Just as and when. Maybe every fourth time you clean the canister or something. Again it should not drop as far but it really depends on how much co2 you are adding. I go slow on co2 at first and monitor plants then increase if need be.
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Caliban07
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Good luck!
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Caliban07
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It needs time to stabilise. The acidic water will help dissolve the coral which in turn will buffer the water. Might take a week or so.
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Caliban07
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Nah no real need and your plants will need it. Just keep your eye on the ph. You want it about 7ish
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