Algae problems in 140g tank

[Tam]

Rex-
As your article and my local fish store guy suggested I put 4 X 96 watt bulbs over my new 140 gallon tank (2.6 watts/gallon) and put in some rocks and plants. The algae growth was unbelievable and actually covered all my plants and rocks and killed all of the hygrophilia. I have since turned off 2 of the lights for the 10 hour light cycle (only 192 watts/140 gal = 1.3 watts per gallon). Is this going to be too little. Will my plants die? If I turn the lights back up how can I keep the algae from going nuts?

Thanks for your help.

 

[malkore]

Tam,

I see no mention of CO2 injection...at 2.6wpg CO2 is necessary or plant growth will be inhibited, which allows the algae to bloom.

You don't mention any fertilizer dosing...but did you dose anything? Also, what were the nitrate and phosphate levels (you MUST test these if you wish to be successful with planted tanks).

Light, fertilizer dosing, and CO2 are all intertwined. More light requires CO2 and fertilizing, but you have to know your nitrate and phosphate levels first, so you don't overdose the ferts. Algae is always caused by a nutrient imbalance...either too much nitrate, phosphate, iron, or a lack of enough CO2 which causes these other nutrients to become available to the algae.

Lastly, it depends on the plants purchased, whether they'll survive at 1.3wpg (low light) or not. Hygrophilia like medium to high light, but apparently that didn't make it (which is surprising, because hygro is a noxious weed in some states due to its insane growth rate)

I'm actually going to break this out into a new post, since you have specific problems that need to be addressed.

 

[Tam]

Thanks for the tips.

My Eco-complete substrate says that I shouldn't need to fertilize. I have occassionally added fertilizer anyway (10 drops of Plant 24 by Dupla, every 2-3rd day). My nitrate levels are fairly consistent in the 10 range and the ammonia and nitrite are 0. The pH is 8.0 and stable, now that I have stopped trying to lower it with acid buffer. My LFS checked the phosphate level for me once and said that it was 0.25 which they said was low but not the desired 0.

I had really hoped to not do the CO2 infusion thing at least right away because of the additional cost. Someday I suspect I'll want it but I was hoping to hold off for right now. Does that mean I should keep the lights low (1.3 wpg) and look for low light plants only? Which plants would you suggest for that? Should I consider snails for algae growth control or stick with the Oto's and a few shrimp?

 

[malkore]

I'll start by saying many LFS's don't know about planted tanks' needs. You need nitrate and phosphate in a planted tank. If you had 0.00ppm phosphate and 10ppm nitrate, you'd start having other algae problems. It truly is a balancing act with nitrate and phosphate, and their consumption is driving by lighting intensity, and available carbon (which comes from teh CO2 injection).
Next, eco-complete is a great substrate...but it lies when it says you don't have to fertilize. Eco is great at holding nutrients in the gravel...but by itself it has relatively little available nutrients for the plants.

Now about CO2...is it really a cost issue? Or are you just intimidated by it?
If it's cost, I can tell you for under $200 you can have a nice pressurized CO2 setup. I don't know your Kh levels, but with a natural pH of 8.0 you should have plenty of Kh to prevent pH swing from injecting CO2.
If you're simply intimidated by CO2, don't be. It's not scary...it can't explode, and as long as you start slow and gradually increase CO2 bubbles to the desired rate, you won't kill fish.

If you don't get CO2 now, then yes I'd run half your lights, and stick to low light plants, or ones that are medium light but noted as being 'very easy' to grow.
It sounds like Dupla 24 is a trace fert. Should be ok to use occasionally, but a 1.3wpg tank doesn't need much. Most of your trace will refreshed by water changes every week.

 

[Tam]

Thanks- I will check into the CO2 possibilities at my LFS. Its not that I'm intimidated by it, its just another variable (and expense) that I was hoping to avoid while I'm still getting the tank set up.

Which plants would you recommend for low light?

What other creatures (fish, snails, or shrimp) would you recommend for working on the algae buildup?

 

[malkore]

True siamese algae eaters for algae (and some ottos). Do some research though, as several similar looking fish are often sold as SAE's, but they won't eat the same algae, and they all have much meaner temperments than true SAE's.

Nerite snails eat algae, as do malyasian trumpets...but the latter will reproduce exponentially (though a clown loach will keep their numbers in check) Neither will eat plants though.

Amano shrimp are supposed to be algae eaters, but I have no experience with them.

Here's a list of low light plants: http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=1&filter_by=2

 

[Nystina]

Don't forget about DIY co2! Its cheap, and a lot of people have great success with it! Check this out: http://www.qsl.net/w2wdx/aquaria/diyco2.html It's from Rex Grigg's site. You can also do a search, there are many different techniques posted in these forums.

 

[malkore]

DIY isn't going to make a dent in 140gallons of water.

 

[Nystina]

Oops, good point. No more suggestions from me.

 

[malkore]

Well, I should really say, DIY would be too inconvenient to work on a tank that size. Probably 5-6 gallons of CO2 mixture.

 

[BASSNMAN]

For a co2 system, check out online sources like ebay. You can get some bargains on the parts for a manual or auto system. I just bought one.