Can Fish Be Added Immediately?

[StevesPrettyCool]

Edit: Can FISH/PLANTS be added Immediately?

Hey everyone, I wanted to add some potting soil or topping soil under my sand in my planted 55 to give the roots some structure. I've read in some posts that the soil must be cycled before filling or adding anything or it'll give out a big nutrient blast, but in others I've read that it should cause no problem. Anyone have any info or suggestions?

It's a planted 55g with swords, anubias, java and philippine ferns and five of one plant who's name I can't currently remember, and currently (but indefinitely) a bunch of angelfish, tiger barbs, glofish and catfish.

I can re-home the fish for a day or two in my 30g but not much longer than that. As for the plants, I have no other tank with proper lighting to transplant them if needed, so I really hope not...

 

[jetajockey]

If you don't mineralize the soil prior to adding it, then yes the organics in it will release ammonia as they break down. Most of the setups I've seen that use straight potting soil often wait for a few weeks for the soil to mineralize before adding stock, I think that even ADA aquasoil recommends this if I recall correctly.

One upside is that if the tank is well cycled it may be able to process this ammonia before it ever becomes a problem, but it's not something I personally would bank on.


I've never tried it myself, though, so I couldn't say for sure what your outcome will be. I've always spent a week or two mineralizing the soil prior to adding it.

 

[StevesPrettyCool]

thanks david, my next question would be, would I be able to just soak it in a large container for a couple weeks to mineralize the water? almost seems to easy to work but its worth asking! haha

 

[jetajockey]

Technically yes, that might work. You are mineralizing the soil, not the water.

It'd work a lot faster though if you just went through the mineralizing process as per the DIY writeups. You can google mineralized topsoil to get an idea of what to do, but basically it involves soaking the topsoil and then laying it out on plastic to dry, once it's dry, soak it again, and let it dry. Repeat the process half a dozen or so times and you are good to go.

The process itself is a bacterial one, so it'd help to have decent warm weather.

At that point you can screen the soil to get all the large organics out and it's ready to go in.

 

[StevesPrettyCool]

oh great call on the diy "soil mineralizing". I couldnt find any good info on it because I didn't really know what to call the process. Currently reading up on it now and it seems easy enough. What do you think the effects on leaving out the dolomite and potash that is mentioned in this article?

How-To: Mineralized Soil Substrate, by Aaron Talbot - Library - Aquatic Plant Central

 

[jetajockey]

I've always done the mineralized soil per the instructions on that writeup. I think though the worst case scenario is you may have to supplement with root tabs or dosing.

The idea of adding potash/dolomite is to create a total package substrate, so to speak, so that supplementation is unnecessary.

I do recommend getting the clay at least, it seems to help the soil stay down, although it still can get very messy if you aren't careful.

If you need the potash and dolomite and can't source it let me know, if you are in the states I can have it heading your way for $10 shipped. When I started doing these tanks I ended up having to order in the stuff so I have extra.

 

[StevesPrettyCool]

yeah I guess its kinda stupid to skip it, should be able to find that stuff at a home depot or lowes I'd imagine right?

 

[jetajockey]

Not really. When looking for dolomite, you want to get CaMg(Co3)2 which is pure dolomite limestone, and not the 'quicklime'/sometimes labeled as dolomitic limestone that is sold in the large bags at the big box hardware. That stuff is caustic and has no place in the aquarium.

I did however find muriate of potash once at a small local hardware store, but no luck in the big box.

 

[StevesPrettyCool]

well I just found out I can use crushed coral instead of dolomite, and should only be used in acidic water to help consistently raise the pH in the soil.

Also, Muriate of Potash is apparently just the "olden days" name for potassium chloride.... doesn't make it easier to find, just a little fun fact haha

 

[jetajockey]

I've read about the crushed coral thing as well. I bet it'd work just as well, but I'd probably grind it to dust first.

Chances are there will be some sort of Mg supplementation at some point anyhow.

Is there another easier to get alternative for the potash?

 

[BBradbury]

Edit: Can FISH/PLANTS be added Immediately?

Hey everyone, I wanted to add some potting soil or topping soil under my sand in my planted 55 to give the roots some structure. I've read in some posts that the soil must be cycled before filling or adding anything or it'll give out a big nutrient blast, but in others I've read that it should cause no problem. Anyone have any info or suggestions?

It's a planted 55g with swords, anubias, java and philippine ferns and five of one plant who's name I can't currently remember, and currently (but indefinitely) a bunch of angelfish, tiger barbs, glofish and catfish.

I can re-home the fish for a day or two in my 30g but not much longer than that. As for the plants, I have no other tank with proper lighting to transplant them if needed, so I really hope not...

Hello Steves...

I've used Miracle Gro organic potting soil and never experienced water chemistry problems and my fish were unaffected. I used it in pots topped with aquarium pea gravel and put the pots directly into the tank.

After using it for several months, I really didn't like it, but the plants did pretty well with it. It's too messy for me and over time as the soil breaks down, it has a tendency to cloud the tank water. At least that's been my experience. The organic mixture has just a trace of ammonia in it, but wasn't enough to change the water chemistry in my large, planted tanks. Small tanks may be another issue.

I'd recommend using a commercial aquarium fert in liquid, dry or granules instead of the potting mixture.

Just a thought to consider or not.

B