Changing over to a new light

[Straick85]

I've order a new Fluval Fresh and Plant 2.0(the 48" one) that should be in this week, as well as the wifi controller.
This will be replacing my 2 lamp F32T8, where each lamp is running a 4x overdrive over a 55 gallon planted with pressurized co2 and a modified EI fertilizer dosing. The plants are dwarf hairgrass, tropica sword, crypt wendtii, and anubias nana.
Given that I should be able to easily adjust the light with the phone, where would you all recommend starting for light levels?
I would do some pictures, but I'm a bit embarrassed as algae has started to take over due to the lamps degrading (color shift and all).

 

[Brookster123]

I'd start out mid power, see how it goes?? What type of algae? I'd try to get that whipped sooner than later.

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[Straick85]

The algae, I'm pretty sure, is due to the color shift from the flourescent lamps. The co2 has been kept stable, and the ferts haven't had one missed day in a couple months.
My other algae problem is my rather small cleanup crew of 2 amano shrimp and 3 otto's.

 

[Caliban07]

The algae, I'm pretty sure, is due to the color shift from the flourescent lamps. The co2 has been kept stable, and the ferts haven't had one missed day in a couple months.
My other algae problem is my rather small cleanup crew of 2 amano shrimp and 3 otto's.

I doubt colour shift is an issue. I think this is another myth to force people to replace extortionately priced tubes for no apparent reason. Light is light as long as it is within the visible light spectrum then is it useful to both plants and algae.

It's the strength of the light that determines whether you get algae because stronger light increases the requirements for carbon and other nutrients and if they are not supplied in sufficient amounts the plants will not grow and algae will take over.

Algae need less of everything than higher plants so you could argue that algae should thrive if plants thrive but there is a STRONG correlation that in fact the opposite is true.

A clean tank with healthy growing higher plants seems to keep most aquarium algae's at bay.

 

[Straick85]

I'm not going to argue color shift, I tested it about 8-9 years ago and was able to prove it does happen, so that's what I'll stick with.

I have the liquid fertilizers and co2(dosing based on testing, drop checker, and fish/plant behavior), but I'm holding the rest of the algae troubleshooting until I have the new light on and setup. When I get to that point, I'll do a thread in regards to it. Here, I was looking for advice on the initial setup levels based off what I have at the moment.

 

[Caliban07]

I'm not going to argue color shift, I tested it about 8-9 years ago and was able to prove it does happen, so that's what I'll stick with.

I have the liquid fertilizers and co2(dosing based on testing, drop checker, and fish/plant behavior), but I'm holding the rest of the algae troubleshooting until I have the new light on and setup. When I get to that point, I'll do a thread in regards to it. Here, I was looking for advice on the initial setup levels based off what I have at the moment.

Fair play. Good luck.

Before I leave it might be worth having a look through this thread.

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/actinic-lighting-vs-algae-growth.7801/page-2

 

[Delapool]

I'm not going to argue color shift, I tested it about 8-9 years ago and was able to prove it does happen, so that's what I'll stick with.

I have the liquid fertilizers and co2(dosing based on testing, drop checker, and fish/plant behavior), but I'm holding the rest of the algae troubleshooting until I have the new light on and setup. When I get to that point, I'll do a thread in regards to it. Here, I was looking for advice on the initial setup levels based off what I have at the moment.

Just out of interest how much shift were you getting?


No algae to speak of here but I do have a cheap Seneye reef par meter and at 9 months I'm seeing a spectrum shift (but not huge) and mainly a par drop. Hard to know what quality my bulbs are.

I'm happy with it all in my setup but would be curious on what you found.

 

[Delapool]

Fair play. Good luck.

Before I leave it might be worth having a look through this thread.

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/actinic-lighting-vs-algae-growth.7801/page-2

I do wonder if lights high in blues might get a bad rap as blue light penetration by water depth is so effective. So maybe easy to have overpowered lights if high in blue. And then issues.

I think on the red light hydroponics led light I have the bml website was saying about a third to a half of red light was lost at substrate whereas blue light was penetrating well.

But in saying all that I was growing bba equally well under blue/white lights or red lights

 

[Brookster123]

I do wonder if lights high in blues might get a bad rap as blue light penetration by water depth is so effective. So maybe easy to have overpowered lights if high in blue. And then issues.

I think on the red light hydroponics led light I have the bml website was saying about a third to a half of red light was lost at substrate whereas blue light was penetrating well.

But in saying all that I was growing bba equally well under blue/white lights or red lights

I Iike your thinking here Dela, makes sense in that corals seem to demand a healthy dose of the Ole sunshine and blues seem to dominate the sw lighting.
Op- what type algae?

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[Caliban07]

I do wonder if lights high in blues might get a bad rap as blue light penetration by water depth is so effective. So maybe easy to have overpowered lights if high in blue. And then issues.

I think on the red light hydroponics led light I have the bml website was saying about a third to a half of red light was lost at substrate whereas blue light was penetrating well.

But in saying all that I was growing bba equally well under blue/white lights or red lights

I wouldn't think there was a direct correlation between wavelength and PAR meaning that you could have a low PAR light mostly in blue and a high PAR light mostly in blue. I do understand your logic though.

This is why it's easier to say that as long as the light is between 400-700nm it is useable by both plants and algae. If the 'colour' or wavelength shifts it is still within the visible light spectrum of which both plants and algae use.

Light prominent at certain wavelengths will therefore accentuate what is being displayed to the human eye and doesn't really have any noticeable affect on plants or algae. Not proven anyway.

It is my belief that when we start going down unproven paths such as this one we often end up creating more problems for ourselves.

I think just keep light simple. Make sure you have enough. Using co2 lowers the light compensation point for plants so you can get away with less.

I recently made up my own mind that I'd like to use more light although I don't think it's necessary for most plants but doing so eliminates any second guessing and if you use enough co2, nutrients should be your only other variable.

My new LED is very white. It washes out the colours at maximum setting. I had algae but it was not due to light colour just light intensity whilst not supplying enough nutrients.

No two tanks are the same though. Apart from the hair grass in the OP's tank I don't see the need for lots of light.

I had hair grass coming up from the substrate under 2 T8 bulbs at about 20 inches. It grew very very very slowly and died off pretty quickly but new blades were coming up all the time. The tubes were brand new and I still had algae.

 

[flchamp89]

I wouldn't think there was a direct correlation between wavelength and PAR meaning that you could have a low PAR light mostly in blue and a high PAR light mostly in blue. I do understand your logic though.

This is why it's easier to say that as long as the light is between 400-700nm it is useable by both plants and algae. If the 'colour' or wavelength shifts it is still within the visible light spectrum of which both plants and algae use.

Light prominent at certain wavelengths will therefore accentuate what is being displayed to the human eye and doesn't really have any noticeable affect on plants or algae. Not proven anyway.

It is my belief that when we start going down unproven paths such as this one we often end up creating more problems for ourselves.

I think just keep light simple. Make sure you have enough. Using co2 lowers the light compensation point for plants so you can get away with less.

I recently made up my own mind that I'd like to use more light although I don't think it's necessary for most plants but doing so eliminates any second guessing and if you use enough co2, nutrients should be your only other variable.

My new LED is very white. It washes out the colours at maximum setting. I had algae but it was not due to light colour just light intensity whilst not supplying enough nutrients.

No two tanks are the same though. Apart from the hair grass in the OP's tank I don't see the need for lots of light.

I had hair grass coming up from the substrate under 2 T8 bulbs at about 20 inches. It grew very very very slowly and died off pretty quickly but new blades were coming up all the time. The tubes were brand new and I still had algae.

Plus 1
Your posts are always dead on.

I think a low par co2 tank with ferts that is heavily planted takes the user down the easiest path for success. Obviously tank size is a consideration. Often people spend alot for a high par light then realize co2 is needed. Probably could have budgeted a different light and have the co2.

 

[Straick85]

Since everyone has latched onto the algae, I have found a major flow issue from my 304 canister. I pulled out my 106 for some added filtration for during alhae cleanup, and that little 106 is moving water better than the 304. Guess it's a good thing that I've got a new 306 coming as well (the 304 has been having priming issues after service as well).

The true issue with the light shift from flourescent lamps as they age is in the shifting fertilizer requirements, which can get pretty drastic when you replace the lamps.

 

[Caliban07]

The true issue with the light shift from flourescent lamps as they age is in the shifting fertilizer requirements, which can get pretty drastic when you replace the lamps.

What are you saying exactly? that the old bulbs lose intensity and switching to new can increase intensity and thus requirements of fertilisers and so your current dose may no longer be adequate?

People are not latching on to the algae. Just the reasons why you think it has suddenly appeared.

 

[Straick85]

The algae has been there, it's just been a matter of finding the sweet spot to encourage the plants and discourage the algae.

For the bulbs, it's exactly that and the color shift. The two together lead to the change in fertilizer and co2 requirements.

I didn't mean for it to sound like I was blaming the lights, I was just not looking forward to redoing the fertilizer schedule due to new lamps, when I can instead change the fixture and be done with that headache fir years.

 

[Brookster123]

Latched on.... huh?? Just trying to help bubs.. seeing as you refuse to declare the type?? In true American fashion, I've become bored of the topic. G'day sir.

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[Straick85]

I know that you all are trying to help, but I also tend to focus on one thing at a time(really drives my wife nuts at times).
Right now, my focus was the light aspect, and the algae aspect will get dealt with in another thread (which will include pictures for aid in id'ing the algae, and it's trigger/cause).
I'm not sure on the type, I just know that it has been there for quite a while, and it has been slowly shrinking.

 

[Delapool]

Good luck with it and hope all goes well. Seems plenty of choice out there for lights nowadays.