Check Valve or Not on CO2 Pressurized System???

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LindaC

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Jan 18, 2006
Messages
355
Location
Massachusetts
I would like to know whether or not a check valve is really needed when using a Milwaukee all in one pressurized system. Should there be one between the regulator and the tank/diffuser? I was told yes by a few people, so I purchased one and now I have to crank the system even higher in order to get sufficient CO2 into my tank. Now I've just been told that I do not need one as the bubble counter will keep the back flow from ruining the regulator.

Do other's use a check valve?

I am have so much trouble with my Milwaukee all in one needle valve holding a decent bubble count. This has been going on for 2 months now, no wonder I can't get rid of my algae and stabilize my tank. In order for me to get 30 ppms of CO2, I have to crank it to where there's at least 10 bubbles per second even more, and the psi is at 25-30.

I'm so frustrated! I could see if I had a lot of time to fool around with this system but I do not, I purchased it so it would save me a lot of time. I need to be able to depend on the system to turn on when the lights do and run at a decent rate, but it seems I can't. Some nights I come home from work to see one bubble here and there in my ladder. Sorry, now I'm venting.

Please, advise on the check valve would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Linda
 
I use a check valve on the tank side of my bubble counter and have not seen any flow restriction. I have found that brands of check valves can really vary the flow rate, so you might try another brand. You definitely don't want any syphoning/backflow to get to your regulator. I have the same brand of set as you do. I have read that plastic check valves can become brittle with CO2 use and should be replaced annually. HTH
 
I don't use a checkvalve. If you have the milwaukee kit, the solonoid is a "check valve".. unplug the solonoid and nothing gets back through.

I am curious as to why you need yours so high, I mean mine runs at 6-7 BPS, but I have a controller on it that turns it off at set PH. so as long as the Co2 is being diffused that fast I have no problems. but I also use a powered reactor @ 100-300GPH (depends on how clean the filter is)..

So the question. what kind of reactor are you using? or are you using a diffuser?
 
I have a brass check valve on there now and it's very heavy and I think it's restricting the flow of co2 a lot more than when I didn't have one on there. I was told on Planted Tank forum that I don't need one because I have the bubble counter which would stop any back flow. I wish more people would reply so I could get different opinions. I'm so tired of fooling around the this sytem. Is yours working well caribou?

I just went out and purchased a plastic check valve anyway. I don't mind replacing it if it works well for a few months, they're cheap enough.
 
Plastic is generally fine if you feel the need.. Rubber is one to avoid as it will stick closed..

as I said, I don't use one..the solonoid is good enough for me. Backflow agains 25PSI is a non-issue unless you get a leak..
 
Wizzard~Of~Ozz said:
I am curious as to why you need yours so high, I mean mine runs at 6-7 BPS, but I have a controller on it that turns it off at set PH. so as long as the Co2 is being diffused that fast I have no problems. but I also use a powered reactor @ 100-300GPH (depends on how clean the filter is)..

So the question. what kind of reactor are you using? or are you using a diffuser?

We must have posted at the same time yesterday as I did not see your question when I posted!

I was using the Hagen Ladder up until yesterday and now I am using a glass/ceramic diffuser. In order to get the system to turn back on at the same rate in the morning, I'd have to run it that high, that's been my problem all this time. Believe me, I don't want to run it that high! When I'd run it at 3 bubbles per second, I wasn't getting enough CO2 and if I was, when the system would shut down for the night, it wouldn't come back on at the same rate the next morning.

However, yesterday I removed the brass check valve, added a different type of tubing (silicone) and hooked it up to my new glass diffuser and now I am getting a nice fine mist. This morning I was home when the system went on and the mist was coming out at the same rate, so hopefully I am getting this system under control. It's been a long road, I'm not sure if there was a leak or not but something was keeping the CO2 from coming out at a decent rate with a lower bubble count.

Sorry for the long response, just want to be sure that I explained it right.

Linda
 
LindaC said:
I have a brass check valve on there now and it's very heavy and I think it's restricting the flow of co2 a lot more than when I didn't have one on there. I was told on Planted Tank forum that I don't need one because I have the bubble counter which would stop any back flow. I wish more people would reply so I could get different opinions. I'm so tired of fooling around the this sytem. Is yours working well caribou?

I just went out and purchased a plastic check valve anyway. I don't mind replacing it if it works well for a few months, they're cheap enough.

As Wizzard has stated, you don't need a check valve. I don't use one either. When the solenoid turns off (lights out), nothing gets through. Then if there is any water in the line when it turns on, the CO2 forces it back out into the tank. Now if you didn't have a solenoid, then it would be highly recommended to have a check-valve. But in your case with the solenoid, don't need one.
 
Lonewolfblue said:
As Wizzard has stated, you don't need a check valve. I don't use one either. When the solenoid turns off (lights out), nothing gets through. Then if there is any water in the line when it turns on, the CO2 forces it back out into the tank. Now if you didn't have a solenoid, then it would be highly recommended to have a check-valve. But in your case with the solenoid, don't need one.

That is unless you don't notice that you've run out of CO2 correct?

Then I assume you'll get the backflow.

I use a checkvalve...with the selenoid and bubble counter.
 
Okay, I didn't think of that, what happens when it does run out and you're not aware of it, as I've heard that there is only a small window of time when it does? Can it hurt the fish? I know that the piece that measures the amount of CO2 in the tank stays where it is until it's just about out and then there's something like 24 hour before it hits 0, is this correct? Is this tank dump? I can deal with a little back flow the first time, if I miss it, but I do not want to chance anything happening to the fish.

Thanks!
Linda
 
All good questions Linda..........I wish I could answer them.
I'm looking forward to the answers myself.
I am on my first tank of C02 so I'm wondering how quickly it drops off too.

Although, I don't see how running out of CO2 can affect the fish.
The plants should also be fine......I'm just guessing but I'd think their growth would just slow a bit. Maybe the only thing to worry about is algae growth?

How far off base am I guys?
 
GlitcH said:
Lonewolfblue said:
As Wizzard has stated, you don't need a check valve. I don't use one either. When the solenoid turns off (lights out), nothing gets through. Then if there is any water in the line when it turns on, the CO2 forces it back out into the tank. Now if you didn't have a solenoid, then it would be highly recommended to have a check-valve. But in your case with the solenoid, don't need one.

That is unless you don't notice that you've run out of CO2 correct?

Then I assume you'll get the backflow.

I use a checkvalve...with the selenoid and bubble counter.

No. If you run out of Co2, the pressure in the line will equal the pressure of the water, no more, no less.. it would take an increase in the water pressure to even move into the line (excluding absorption since it's gas and a liquid) but we are talking days, possibly even weeks.

having an empty tank is no different then a check valve. the pressure on 1 side is equal to the pressure (applied through spring or air) on the other..

Now, hooking up a 100% empty (atmospheric pressure) tank to the system will allow water to flow through the lines until the pressure builds in the tank to equalize..

ever try and fill a 2l pop bottle with water? you have to tip it or manipulate it to allow the air to escape so the water can displace it.. tipping would be the equivilent to a leak. otherwise you will never be able to succesfully fill the bottle.. tape a bottle to the faucet and turn it on. you will see that water cannot enter the bottle once the air pressure is equal to the tap pressure

Also, I'm pretty sure for a 5 or 10lb tank to drain off 850PSI it would take 2-3 days at least.
 
I always run a check valve.

Regulator pressure should be around 25psi, then dialed down by the needle valve.
 
i recommend a check valve--i had tank water backflow into the chamber between the bubble counter and the solenoid. it totally corroded that chamber and i had to drill it out (as per the instructions of a VERY nice guy at milwaukee, who saved my from having to buy a whole new regulator!)

jmo
 
Thank you all, you've been very helpful! I think I will add a check valve then, it can't hurt, unless it starts restricting the flow of CO2 like the brass check valve did, then I might choose to just leave it off and hope for the best.

I'm so close to removing the pressurized system completely, I just cannot seem to get my algae under control, it's so very frustrating. I work long days and am so tired of getting home every evening only to find my tank looking like crap and having to spend a couple of hours removing algae testing the water, etc.

Thanks again!
Linda
 
I will be adding a check valve in a few days. I was cleaning my tank this weekend and I wanted to add more water to the bubble counter, it evaporates after a while. So I start to open the bubble counter and water is coming out everywhere. The water was siphoning through the tubing into the counter. I guess that added water just not the kind I wanted. A check valve would eliminate the backflow when opening the bubble counter for maintenance.
 
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