Check Valve or Not on CO2 Pressurized System???

[LindaC]

I would like to know whether or not a check valve is really needed when using a Milwaukee all in one pressurized system. Should there be one between the regulator and the tank/diffuser? I was told yes by a few people, so I purchased one and now I have to crank the system even higher in order to get sufficient CO2 into my tank. Now I've just been told that I do not need one as the bubble counter will keep the back flow from ruining the regulator.

Do other's use a check valve?

I am have so much trouble with my Milwaukee all in one needle valve holding a decent bubble count. This has been going on for 2 months now, no wonder I can't get rid of my algae and stabilize my tank. In order for me to get 30 ppms of CO2, I have to crank it to where there's at least 10 bubbles per second even more, and the psi is at 25-30.

I'm so frustrated! I could see if I had a lot of time to fool around with this system but I do not, I purchased it so it would save me a lot of time. I need to be able to depend on the system to turn on when the lights do and run at a decent rate, but it seems I can't. Some nights I come home from work to see one bubble here and there in my ladder. Sorry, now I'm venting.

Please, advise on the check valve would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Linda

[caribou]

I use a check valve on the tank side of my bubble counter and have not seen any flow restriction. I have found that brands of check valves can really vary the flow rate, so you might try another brand. You definitely don't want any syphoning/backflow to get to your regulator. I have the same brand of set as you do. I have read that plastic check valves can become brittle with CO2 use and should be replaced annually. HTH

[Wizzard~Of~Ozz]

I don't use a checkvalve. If you have the milwaukee kit, the solonoid is a "check valve".. unplug the solonoid and nothing gets back through.

I am curious as to why you need yours so high, I mean mine runs at 6-7 BPS, but I have a controller on it that turns it off at set PH. so as long as the Co2 is being diffused that fast I have no problems. but I also use a powered reactor @ 100-300GPH (depends on how clean the filter is)..

So the question. what kind of reactor are you using? or are you using a diffuser?

[LindaC]

I have a brass check valve on there now and it's very heavy and I think it's restricting the flow of co2 a lot more than when I didn't have one on there. I was told on Planted Tank forum that I don't need one because I have the bubble counter which would stop any back flow. I wish more people would reply so I could get different opinions. I'm so tired of fooling around the this sytem. Is yours working well caribou?

I just went out and purchased a plastic check valve anyway. I don't mind replacing it if it works well for a few months, they're cheap enough.

[Wizzard~Of~Ozz]

Plastic is generally fine if you feel the need.. Rubber is one to avoid as it will stick closed..

as I said, I don't use one..the solonoid is good enough for me. Backflow agains 25PSI is a non-issue unless you get a leak..

[LindaC]

Originally Posted by Wizzard~Of~Ozz

I am curious as to why you need yours so high, I mean mine runs at 6-7 BPS, but I have a controller on it that turns it off at set PH. so as long as the Co2 is being diffused that fast I have no problems. but I also use a powered reactor @ 100-300GPH (depends on how clean the filter is)..

So the question. what kind of reactor are you using? or are you using a diffuser?

We must have posted at the same time yesterday as I did not see your question when I posted!

I was using the Hagen Ladder up until yesterday and now I am using a glass/ceramic diffuser. In order to get the system to turn back on at the same rate in the morning, I'd have to run it that high, that's been my problem all this time. Believe me, I don't want to run it that high! When I'd run it at 3 bubbles per second, I wasn't getting enough CO2 and if I was, when the system would shut down for the night, it wouldn't come back on at the same rate the next morning.

However, yesterday I removed the brass check valve, added a different type of tubing (silicone) and hooked it up to my new glass diffuser and now I am getting a nice fine mist. This morning I was home when the system went on and the mist was coming out at the same rate, so hopefully I am getting this system under control. It's been a long road, I'm not sure if there was a leak or not but something was keeping the CO2 from coming out at a decent rate with a lower bubble count.

Sorry for the long response, just want to be sure that I explained it right.

Linda

[Lonewolfblue]

Originally Posted by LindaC

I have a brass check valve on there now and it's very heavy and I think it's restricting the flow of co2 a lot more than when I didn't have one on there. I was told on Planted Tank forum that I don't need one because I have the bubble counter which would stop any back flow. I wish more people would reply so I could get different opinions. I'm so tired of fooling around the this sytem. Is yours working well caribou?

I just went out and purchased a plastic check valve anyway. I don't mind replacing it if it works well for a few months, they're cheap enough.

As Wizzard has stated, you don't need a check valve. I don't use one either. When the solenoid turns off (lights out), nothing gets through. Then if there is any water in the line when it turns on, the CO2 forces it back out into the tank. Now if you didn't have a solenoid, then it would be highly recommended to have a check-valve. But in your case with the solenoid, don't need one.

[GlitcH]

Originally Posted by Lonewolfblue

As Wizzard has stated, you don't need a check valve. I don't use one either. When the solenoid turns off (lights out), nothing gets through. Then if there is any water in the line when it turns on, the CO2 forces it back out into the tank. Now if you didn't have a solenoid, then it would be highly recommended to have a check-valve. But in your case with the solenoid, don't need one.

That is unless you don't notice that you've run out of CO2 correct?

Then I assume you'll get the backflow.

I use a checkvalve...with the selenoid and bubble counter.

[Lonewolfblue]

True, that's why you always keep tabs on your CO2.

[LindaC]

Okay, I didn't think of that, what happens when it does run out and you're not aware of it, as I've heard that there is only a small window of time when it does? Can it hurt the fish? I know that the piece that measures the amount of CO2 in the tank stays where it is until it's just about out and then there's something like 24 hour before it hits 0, is this correct? Is this tank dump? I can deal with a little back flow the first time, if I miss it, but I do not want to chance anything happening to the fish.

Thanks!
Linda