Dealing with "green fuzz" algae

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Barliman

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Feb 20, 2016
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Los Angeles, 3rd door on the left
Hi all,

I have a bit of an algae problem I need advice on. It's a heavily-planted 20-long. I've conquered most algae in it except for a green fuzz algae that especially likes to attack my alternanthera reineckii roseafolia. Here are the tank's details:

Size: 20-long
Substrate: Eco-Complete substrate
Filtration: One AC 50 (with purigen) and one AC 20 (sponge and biomedia)
Temp: 76f
Light: Finnex Planted+ (older model), 4 hours one, 4 off, 4 on

Water chemistry:
PH 6.8-7
NH3 0
NO2 0
NO3 10-20ppm
PO4 0-.25ppm
GH 3 drops/50-100ppm
KH 7 drops/100-200ppm
Free Iron 0 mg/l
Chelated Iron .25-.5 mg/l
CO2: Pressurized, 3 bubbles per second. Ceramic diffuser placed under the AC50's outflow.

Fertilizers: Easy Green and Easy Iron from Aquarium Co-Op, two pumps each twice a week.

Inhabitants: one otocinclus, 2-3 amanos, 8 neon tetras, and way too many platys. (They'll be re-homed, soon.)

(The iron test was done using the Nutrafin kit, the rest with the API master kit. I also use Tetra test strips, and the results are similar to the API readings.)

Like I said, it's a green fuzz (short hair) algae that mostly attacks my red plants. In fact, it's darn-near killed the alternanthera. Plant growth is great with CO2 and the "Easy" ferts, so I'm not sure how to deal with the green fuzz,

Suggestions welcome. :thanks:
 
Barliman
Might try one juvenile Bristlenose Pleco. My three BN are algae eating machines. As you know, they don't grow very big and are not known to damage plants.
I think your slightly acidic water pretty much eliminates using a copper based algaecide. Maybe a half dose?
 
What is your ph with co2 running? How much of a drop are you getting? It might be as simple as starting co2 earlier?
 
Thanks for the advice, folks!

V227:
Might try one juvenile Bristlenose Pleco. My three BN are algae eating machines. As you know, they don't grow very big and are not known to damage plants.
I think your slightly acidic water pretty much eliminates using a copper based algaecide. Maybe a half dose?

It's such a heavily planted tank that catching a bristlenose when it got too big would be a nightmare. Might try some nerites and more amanos, though. I'm reluctant to mess with algaecides, though, as my oto needs something to eat.

Coralbandit:

Thank you for those links! I don't know how I missed them earlier. Kind of embarrassing, considering I work in a library... :oops:

Possibly going to EI dosing of ferts may help ?
Do you use anything like excel{glute} ?

I do dose Excel, but it still appears. I considered EI when switching from Seachem, but the weekly 50% water changes were too daunting, and I'm generally happy with the results from Easy Green/Iron. I might give it a try, though, once my new Python arrives and I get used to using it.

mbkemp:
What is your ph with co2 running? How much of a drop are you getting? It might be as simple as starting co2 earlier?

That's a good question: I've never measured before/after PH. I should give that a try. I do know my drop checker never turns green, just stays blue. I've wondered if the tank needed more flow. CO2 turns on 45 minutes to one hour before lights on and shuts off the same time before lights off.

I'm beginning to suspect I'm providing too much fertilizer. The alternanthera are slower growers, even with CO2, and I suspect that's one reason the fuzz mostly attacks them. Since I've been dosing 2 pumps of each on Sundays and Wednesdays, I may cut back to 2 on Saturdays and 1 each on Wednesdays. Also, I may increase my water changes (I've been slacking) to pull excess nutrients out.

Thanks folks!
 
I bet flow is a great place to start. Try moving your drop checker or testing ph every 30 minutes to see what is happening
 
I gave up on these as too slow growing in my tank. They got attacked by algae and just too slow growing to do well.

Are you getting any algae on glass at all? I use that as a sign of how much light I’m putting into tank.

Phosphate seems a little low and would bring up to at least 0.5 or even 1 ppm. This may help with green algae although tenuous.

CO2 sounds worth checking as well.

I’m not sure limiting ferts will work. Ime algae grows in very low ferts concentrations anyway, even tap water if light is high enough. Extra ferts can set if off sure in an unplanted tank but would have to be careful not to limit ferts in a planted tank.

How are lower leaves on stem plants? Any holes.
 
Sorry for the slow reply. Holidays and all that. :)

I gave up on these as too slow growing in my tank. They got attacked by algae and just too slow growing to do well.

I finally tore them out. It's a beautiful plant, but I want to get this problem controlled before I try again. They are indeed slow growers and just weren't out-competing the algae.


Are you getting any algae on glass at all? I use that as a sign of how much light I’m putting into tank.

Some, but it's easily controllable by scraping during the water change. I let it run riot on the back wall so the oto has something to nosh on.

Phosphate seems a little low and would bring up to at least 0.5 or even 1 ppm. This may help with green algae although tenuous.

Thanks, I had thought that was a possibility, but wasn't sure. I have a bottle of Seachem Phosphorus left over from the days I was using their line, so maybe I'll try that as a supplement.

CO2 sounds worth checking as well.

Yeah, I may up it to 3-4 BPS. Drop checker has yet to "go green."

How are lower leaves on stem plants? Any holes.

Older leaves, yes, but that was from before I switched ferts and started with pressurized CO2. Newer leaves are generally in great shape. I should probably tear out the old stems and replant the newer ones as cuttings.

:fish1:
 
Yes, most stem plants I found that they needed replanting of newer tips. Kind of over stem plants now for the work to be honest except red ones.

You could also check your tank ph at start and finish of CO2 injection and see what the drop is. That might give a guide.
 
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