Diy co2

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roydooms

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
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Hello everyone! I only know a few things when it comes to planted tank. I just cycled a 125g tank and I am going to buy at least $50 worth of plants. Mostly sword, java fern and anubias. My question is, when it comes to diy co2 do i need a co2 reactor/diffuser? How long should I run it? If I use a 2liter bottle how many 2 liters do I need? How do you control the bubbles? I have 6-65w bulbs but I only use 4 . 2-10k and 2-6700. Thanks in advance!
 
roydooms said:
Hello everyone! I only know a few things when it comes to planted tank. I just cycled a 125g tank and I am going to buy at least $50 worth of plants. Mostly sword, java fern and anubias. My question is, when it comes to diy co2 do i need a co2 reactor/diffuser? How long should I run it? If I use a 2liter bottle how many 2 liters do I need? How do you control the bubbles? I have 6-65w bulbs but I only use 4 . 2-10k and 2-6700. Thanks in advance!

I also heard that I need to add iron and other stuff to make plants healthy. Is that true? If yes, what and where can I get them. Thanks.
 
I've never done diy co2, but from reading I've learned you will have huge difficulty with that size tank.. It all be hard to keep a steady level and will cause more harm than good..

I keep some swords as well as some ludwigia & java fern that have been growing happily with root tabs and a little dose of excel every now and then..

Also, there are rosette swords that are smaller and more compact for mid ground plants.. Check out the ludwigia (has some red colors) as well, you can get that tank full from clippings in no time..

What are the dimensions of your tank? Do your lights go end to end?
I grow my plants in a 75g (20" tall) with two 54w t5ho 10,000k bulbs.. You may not need all of that light for those plants

I would scrap the idea of diy co2 on that large tank.. Sorry.. :(
 
You can look at my thread, "thoughts if my simple scape" to see what I have happening..
 
Agree with all the advice here so far...

For the other question about fertilizers:

Plants need 5 big things to grow, and several smaller amounts of other nutrients to thrive.

The big things:
1. Light - you have this covered... minimum of 1 watt per gallon for low light plants... with your fixture running 4 bulbs, you will be able to grow medium light plants as well

2. Carbon - This comes in a few forms... your plants will use CO2 in the water to get this. Without injecting CO2 your water will remain at equilibrium with the air, around 7ppm CO2. By injecting CO2 (pressurized, not DIY on a tank of your size) you can raise the CO2 to "unnatural" levels and essentially kick the plants into high gear. The consensus is the most beneficial level is somewhere between 20-40ppm CO2. You can also add Carbon by using a product called "seachem excel". It works very well with most plants, but can cause problems with others (namely hornwort, anacharis, and a few others) so read up on it before putting it in your tank.

3. Nitrogen (N): One of the 3 "macro-nutrients" for plant growth. If you have fish in your tank, there is a natural source of N provided by fish waste and uneaten food, in the form of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. Your plants will soak up these forms of N and use them to grow. As you add more light to a tank, especially if it is heavily planted, your plants may use up all of the N in your tank, and it may become necessary to supplement the N using fertilizer.

4. Phosphorus (P): the 2d of the 3 macro-nutrients. It occurs naturally in many water sources, and is also found in many foods and other organic material. It may be necessary to dose P in high light tanks where the plants are using up all available naturally occurring P. It occurs in the tank in the form of Phosphate, PO4... so you can get a phosphate test kit to check how much P your plants have available to use.

5. Potassium (K): The last of the 3 macro-nutrients. K doesn't occur naturally in much that is already in a standard tank. Most off the shelf aquarium fertilizers contain K (and not the other 2 macros). It is less harmful in large quantities, and almost any tank (from low to high) will benefit from the addition of a supplement that contains K.

The micro-nutrient or trace elements:

Plants also need other nutrients in much smaller quantities that are often referred to as micro-nutrients or trace elements. These include Iron (Fe), the most common trace element added, and a commonly available fertilizer. It also includes other elements, like Boron, Mg, etc.

Most ferts you find in your local fish store will be a liquid form that combines 1 or more of the nutrients I described above. Most serious FW Planted tank hobbyists prefer to dose each of the 4 categories above individually using dry fertilizers. You can buy enough dry fert to last years for a tank of your size for about $20-30. The liquid ferts sold in LFSs are very expensive in comparison, sometimes costing 20-70 times as much if you add up what you are getting per dose. Check out rexgrigg.com. He has a good explanation on dry ferts, and sells them as well.

In addition to liquid dosing or dry dosing to the water column, there are also "root tabs" available that get "planted" in the substrate under the plants. They can do wonders for plants that are heavy root feeders. They contain 1 or more of the categories of ferts (N, P, K, or trace) I described above.
 
cjldad said:
You can look at my thread, "thoughts if my simple scape" to see what I have happening..

I just checked your thread. Beautiful tank! I'm jealous! Haha!
 
fort384 said:
Agree with all the advice here so far...

For the other question about fertilizers:

Plants need 5 big things to grow, and several smaller amounts of other nutrients to thrive.

The big things:
Light - you have this covered... minimum of 1 watt per gallon for low light plants... with your fixture running 4 bulbs, you will be able to grow medium light plants as well

Carbon - This comes in a few forms... your plants will use CO2 in the water to get this. Without injecting CO2 your water will remain at equilibrium with the air, around 7ppm CO2. By injecting CO2 (pressurized, not DIY on a tank of your size) you can raise the CO2 to "unnatural" levels and essentially kick the plants into high gear. The consensus is the most beneficial level is somewhere between 20-40ppm CO2. You can also add Carbon by using a product called "seachem excel". It works very well with most plants, but can cause problems with others (namely hornwort, anacharis, and a few others) so read up on it before putting it in your tank.

Nitrogen (N): One of the 3 "macro-nutrients" for plant growth. If you have fish in your tank, there is a natural source of N provided by fish waste and uneaten food, in the form of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. Your plants will soak up these forms of N and use them to grow. As you add more light to a tank, especially if it is heavily planted, your plants may use up all of the N in your tank, and it may become necessary to supplement the N using fertilizer.

Phosphorus (P): the 2d of the 3 macronutrients. It occurs naturally in many water sources, and is also found in many foods and other organic material. It may be necessary to dose P in high light tanks where the plants are using up all available naturally occuring P. It occurs in the tank in the form of Phosphate, PO4... so you can get a phosphate test kit to check how much P your plants have available to use.

Potassium (K): The last of the 3 macro-nutrients. K doesn't occur naturally in much that is already in a standard tank. Most off the shelf aquarium fertilizers contain K (and not the other 2 macros). It is less harmful in large quantities, and almost any tank (from low to high) will benefit from the addition of a supplement that contains K.

The micronutrient or trace elements:

Plants also need other nutrients in much smaller quantities that are often reffered to as micronutrients or trace elements. These include Iron (Fe), the most common trace element added, and a commonly available fertilizer. It also includes other elements, like Boron, Mg, etc.

Most ferts you find in your local fish store will be a liquid form that combines 1 or more of the nutrients I described above. Most serious FW Planted tank hobbyists prefer to dose each of the 4 categories above individually using dry fertilizers. You can buy enough dry fert to last years for a tank of your size for about $20-30. The liquid ferts sold in LFSs are very expensive in comparison, sometimes costing 20-70 times as much if you add up what you are getting per dose. Check out rexgrigg.com. He has a good explanation on dry ferts, and sells them as well.

In addition to liquid dosing or dry dosing to the water column, there are also "root tabs" available that get "planted" in the substrate under the plants. They can do wonders for plants that are heavy root feeders. They contain 1 or more of the categories of ferts (N, P, K, or trace) I described above.

Great info. I will surely keep this in mind and buy the necessary ferts for the plants. Which do you prefer though? The liquid or dry? Should I put the tab the same time I plant it? How about the ones already planted without the root tab? Thank you.
 
Adding some root tabs will almost always be beneficial for root feeders. I use dry ferts to make my own liquid ferts, at about 1% of the cost of buying the liquid ferts. I run high light tanks with pressurized CO2, so I am dosing everything stated above. In your tank, none of it may be a requirement. I would recommend maybe looking at something like tetra flora-pride to start (a liquid fert). This is a good source of micro nutrients, namely iron, and also has K (potassium) in it. If you decide later to add the extra bulbs and add CO2, then look seriously at getting some dry ferts online, and setting up a dosing regiment using PPS Pro or Estimative Index (EI) dosing. For now... root tabs, maybe something with K and Fe, like the tetra florapride.
 
fort384 said:
Adding some root tabs will almost always be beneficial for root feeders. I use dry ferts to make my own liquid ferts, at about 1% of the cost of buying the liquid ferts. I run high light tanks with pressurized CO2, so I am dosing everything stated above. In your tank, none of it may be a requirement. I would recommend maybe looking at something like tetra flora-pride to start (a liquid fert). This is a good source of micro nutrients, namely iron, and also has K (potassium) in it. If you decide later to add the extra bulbs and add CO2, then look seriously at getting some dry ferts online, and setting up a dosing regiment using PPS Pro or Estimative Index (EI) dosing. For now... root tabs, maybe something with K and Fe, like the tetra florapride.

Tetra flora-pride and root tabs is what I will get then. I already saved all the infos for future use. I will try the "no Co2 system" and see how it'll go with just the ferts you recommended. Thank you.

Anyway, what should I use to attach(?) plants to a driftwood? Thanks.
 
Low test fishing line or cotton thread both work fine. Some also use rubber bands, but in my opinion it is easier to "hide" the thread and/or fishing line.
 
fort384 said:
Low test fishing line or cotton thread both work fine. Some also use rubber bands, but in my opinion it is easier to "hide" the thread and/or fishing line.

Got it. Thanks!
 
cjldad said:
I like flourish root tabs. Amazon has them by packs of 40 for a decent price.. :)

Is this the one with K and Fe fort was talking about?
 
". Flourish Tabs are growth-stimulating tablets containing essential trace elements, amino acids, and vitamins. Flourish Tabs are rich in iron, manganese, magnesium, calcium, potassium, inositol, choline B12, biotin, and other factors beneficial to aquarium plant roots.. Flourish Tabs are growth-stimulating tablets containing essential trace elements, amino acids, and vitamins. Flourish Tabs are rich in iron, manganese, magnesium, calcium, potassium, inositol, choline B12, biotin, and other factors beneficial to aquarium plant roots."

Yup, they have K and Fe, among other trace elements.
 
What kind of substrate are you using? I'm using regular old play sand..

Also, there are many different types of root tabs.. Some look like stuff jammed in a pill capsule.. I try to stay away from these as the capsule never fully dissolves from what I've been told.. The seachem flourish tabs will full dissolve not leaving junk in your substrate..
 
cjldad said:
What kind of substrate are you using? I'm using regular old play sand..

Also, there are many different types of root tabs.. Some look like stuff jammed in a pill capsule.. I try to stay away from these as the capsule never fully dissolves from what I've been told.. The seachem flourish tabs will full dissolve not leaving junk in your substrate..

I'm not sure if my substrate is suitable for planting. I have medium-sized pebbles(?). Do I need to get a different kind of substrate?
 
Nahhh. you can use about anything. Especially if you add root tabs. The specialized substrate becomes more important when you get into finer, delicate plants that create ground cover, etc.
 
fort384 said:
Nahhh. you can use about anything. Especially if you add root tabs. The specialized substrate becomes more important when you get into finer, delicate plants that create ground cover, etc.

What do you mean by specialized substrate? So, the ones that I have now is not good for a dwarf hairgrass?
 
cjldad said:
I like flourish root tabs. Amazon has them by packs of 40 for a decent price.. :)

Is it called flourish root tabs or flourish excel? Thanks.
 
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