Does 10000k t5ho benefit algae growth?

[adammak47]

Always read ppl mention 10000K t5ho bulb does not benefit to life plant. So does it benefit algae growth?

 

[mfdrookie516]

They're wrong if they say that it isn't good for plants. Honestly, the kelvin rating is not an accurate way to look at lighting for plants. Spectrums are.

 

[Fishguy2727]

The ideal color for photosynthesis is about 6500K (same as natural sunlight). 10,000K is good too though, I have plants growing well under it in my 75 right now. You will always favor one type of algae or another and many different details about the tank will determine which type is favored (nitrate, phosphate, silicate, herbivores in the tank, lighting, etc.).

Are you wanting alge or trying to avoid it?

 

[adammak47]

I am trying to avoid it.
I have a 58 gallon tank 36"w x 18"w x 21"h. I want to have a low to medium low light tank so I can avoid co2 and algae growth. The fixture that I am planing to buy comes with T5HO 2x39w 6500K. It gives me 1.34 wpg. Since this is HO light, I think it will gives me more than wpg rules means. In order to lower the chance of strong light and algae outbreak, I am thinking to switch 1 bulb to 10000K from 6500K. Does that help?

 

[jetajockey]

If you run into algae issues try reducing light intensity overall rather than changing the spectrum colors

 

[Fishguy2727]

I don't think you will have major issues with that little light. If you do have algae problems just get a bristlenose pleco. They will eat the algae but not the plants (or bother the fish). They will do all the maintenance for you.

 

[jetajockey]

What brand fixture are you ordering? A single t5ho would put you in the low-medium range where you wouldn't have explosive plant growth but also wouldn't have explosive algae growth either. A dual t5ho would probably also be workable but you may have to raise the fixture up off the tank a little if you want to reduce light intensity.

BN plecos only eat a few types of algae, so it's hardly a solution, but they are fun to watch.

 

[adammak47]

The brand is Odyssea. Below is the link
Odyssea T5 High Output Aquarium Lighting

 

[adammak47]

I want to use one bulb but all t5ho comes with dual bulbs. And I heard if you leave one socket empty, it will burn the fixture easily.
Could it reduce the light intensity if I have a top glass cover?

 

[Fishguy2727]

IME bristlenose plecos will eat almost every type of algae, especially the common types, so they are a great solution in almost any tank with almost any type of algae. You may need to add more than usual for certain types, but they will eat almost all of them.

I wouldn't worry about a problem that hasn't happened yet. That fixture type is fine (I would go with a higher quality brand myself). If the plants do well they will outcompete algae for nutrients. If there is an issue there are natural algae control options (bristlenose plecos, ottos, etc.). Changing the photoperiod and not the bulbs, fixture, or light color will usually be a great way to control algae if it comes up.

 

[jetajockey]

I want to use one bulb but all t5ho comes with dual bulbs. And I heard if you leave one socket empty, it will burn the fixture easily.
Could it reduce the light intensity if I have a top glass cover?

Yes, using a glass top will help diffuse the light some.

The oddysea fixtures have so-so reflectors so you may be ok running both lights.

The thing about using higher light is higher demand for ferts and co2, so in your case, where you don't want to do co2, you should stick with as little light as you can get by with.

IME bristlenose plecos will eat almost every type of algae, especially the common types, so they are a great solution in almost any tank with almost any type of algae. You may need to add more than usual for certain types, but they will eat almost all of them.

I would think nutrient, lighting, and co2 control would be a better solution than throwing fish at the problem.

Maybe we have different BN plecos, but the kind that I keep and breed are mediocre at best when it comes to algae control, they can only help lessen the impact of a problem that needs to be dealt with by the aquarist pulling the strings.

I wouldn't worry about a problem that hasn't happened yet. That fixture type is fine (I would go with a higher quality brand myself). If the plants do well they will outcompete algae for nutrients. If there is an issue there are natural algae control options (bristlenose plecos, ottos, etc.). Changing the photoperiod and not the bulbs, fixture, or light color will usually be a great way to control algae if it comes up.

I'm curious how plants outcompete algae for anything? Algae is far more adaptable and requires much less nutrient-wise. Please don't say allelopathy.

IME, algae takes advantage of imbalances, some species more than others depending on what that imbalance might be.

 

[-Mac-]

PAR vs Distance, T5, T12, PC - Updated Charts

Not perfect but this will help.

 

[Fishguy2727]

Plants are better adapted to more efficiently utilize nutrients. If they are doing well it takes a bigger problem to favor algae over the plants.

All of the BNs I have used are very good at taking care of algae. They are a great natural solution to an inevitable problem. Any tank favors one type of algae.

No matter what water changes are vital to keeping nutrients under control. If the problem is still there it is probably a lot more cost effective to buy a few BNs than a new light fixture.

IME doing more water changes, adjusting the photoperiod, and adding algivores are effective at controlling algae. Next would be changing the color of the bulbs. Then more extreme measures may be needed ot fix the problem.

 

[jetajockey]

Plants are better adapted to more efficiently utilize nutrients. If they are doing well it takes a bigger problem to favor algae over the plants.

I disagree, but this isn't on topic so I'll just leave it at that.

No matter what water changes are vital to keeping nutrients under control. If the problem is still there it is probably a lot more cost effective to buy a few BNs than a new light fixture.

It's even more cost effective to balance out nutrients/light/co2.

That's interesting, because most of the planted tank keepers that I know actually keep a more lax schedule on water changes than those with unplanted tanks. The exception is those that are dosing E.I. in which water changes are part of the routine in order to keep tabs on the fert levels.

And in some cases, doing water changes may even escalate the issue if it is thought to be nutrient-related. Tap water especially is far from a clean slate, so to speak.

Buying fish to deal with algae is not a solution, its a bandaid. It's a non-comparison to buying a new light fixture, because often times the cause of the algae outbreak is from the excessive lighting as it is.

 

[Fishguy2727]

Yes, obviously a balanced tank is an even better solution and should be the goal. But if that is the case and there is still algae then BNs are a good option. I am not talking about problematic outbreaks, I am talking about general maintenance. Almost any tank, planted or not, needs a little help with algae control.

Yes, plants are better adapted than algae. But what do I know, I am just a Biologist. I have seen multiple tanks do much better by simply adding plants. They utilize the nutrients better than the algae does and all of a sudden the algae problem is gone.

Yes, a less aggressive water change schedule is definitely an option in a planted. But if there are any problems, like algae, then increasing the water changes is always a good idea. Yes, obviously the exception is if the water changes themselves are causing the problem.

I am not saying these are the only ways to fix an algae problem, but they are what have worked for me. I like to be pretty lazy with my tanks, and so do my clients and customers, and these are the methods that have worked best for me. If the OP )or someone reading this thread) does even end up with algae problems and wants to mess with their fertilizer schedule, change the lighting, or get into CO2 then by all means, go for it. I am just providing another option as well.

How do you alter lighting without a new fixture?

 

[jetajockey]

In the case of too much lighting, you raise the fixture, or diffuse the light via the reflector material/shape. i think the glass panel between the fixture/tank will likely help as well.

 

[Fishguy2727]

Wouldn't it be more effective to shortern the photoperiod? I have used this on a number of tanks and it has been very effective.

 

[jetajockey]

yes shortening photoperiod is also very effective, I wasn't suggesting that intensity reduction be the only method to take, but it's definitely up there. My reasoning for jumping right to light intensity is because of how common dual t5ho fixtures have become in recent years. Anyone who wants a planted tank just grabs a dual t5ho fixture thinking that it's just a step up from their t8s or t12s but in reality a dual t5ho is a huge step up (especially a high quality fixture), often requiring some sort of co2 supplementation and regular fert dosing.

It'd be nice if they made single t5ho fixtures more readily available, they work out great for someone who wants to keep things fairly low tech or is just starting out in the whole co2/fert thing. A single t5ho fixture with a nice parabolic reflector is plenty to grow plants in most smaller tanks, and is forgiving enough for those who aren't always faithful to their dosing schedule.

Thankfully the cheapo dual t5ho fixtures do not have much for reflectors so it's not doubling the light output like one would think it does.

 

[Fishguy2727]

What do you think about a dual T5HO with 6500K vs 10,000K?

I have found that my plants do well under 50/50 reef lighting (NO T8) and 10,000K CFL (2x96 watt on a 75). I prefer the color of the lighting, I think the lower kelvin color bulbs are just too red and do not bring out all the colors of the fish.

 

[Blacksteel]

Ok I've kinda been trying to figure out what light (low/med/high) I have over my tank? It's a 29 gallon tall with a dual bulb T5HO? I have the availability of running 2 10000k's or 1 10000k with 1 actinic? I'm trying to stay in low to medium range?