Dosing macros & micros separately?

[Delapool]

Hi, I've always read these should be dosed at either end of tank or with a 12hr gap so the iron and phosphate can't combine and drop out of solution.

I remember some old threads reporting they had observed this but wondering if actually a possible problem still (if I'm recalling correctly )? Also if others dose macros / micros separate? Thanks!

 

[plantnoob]

Hi, I've seen a couple of threads discussing this while scouring through the forums in Barr Report. My understanding is Fe reacts with KH2PO4 to produce iron phosphate which renders either unavailable for the tank. I dose them roughly 12 hrs apart. I've heard some people say they dose at the opposite end of the tank, but I don't take chances. I have other problems as it is


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Bert2oo1]

I've never really thought about it. I've been doing them 1 after the other doing PPS pro liquid solution. I have algae issues currently so maybe the irons eating all the phosphates


30g planted, 90g Oscar tank

 

[Fresh2o]

I read about that as well. I have not tried it. Mostly because I don't know how to tell if it made a difference (measure Fe, PO4, observe plant growth?).


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[plantnoob]

So the precipitation I believe is a given. The reaction is bound to happen. Now since Fe concentration is generally less than PO4, not all of your phosphates may precipitate out. Most of your iron might be gone, but the plants may still get a good bit of phosphates. I hadn't done any testing really, but should be easy enough to do a controlled test. I'll play with it this weekend and post results.

Cheers.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Caliban07]

So the precipitation I believe is a given. The reaction is bound to happen. Now since Fe concentration is generally less than PO4, not all of your phosphates may precipitate out. Most of your iron might be gone, but the plants may still get a good bit of phosphates. I hadn't done any testing really, but should be easy enough to do a controlled test. I'll play with it this weekend and post results.

Cheers.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

This is where nutrient rich substrates come in to their own. Soil and clay balls have tons of iron and other micronutrients. Therefore I tend not to dose micros.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[plantnoob]

But are you likely to deplete them over time? Especially if you have nutrient hogs like Vals?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Caliban07]

Dosing macros & micros separately?

But are you likely to deplete them over time? Especially if you have nutrient hogs like Vals?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

Impossible to say. It depends on the things we discussed relating to carbon uptake but I can just check for deficiencies and stick some osmocote root tabs in the soil or just dose as and when. Duckweed and other fast growing floating plants are good for highlighting nutrients shortfalls.

The start of this thread contains some estimated data based on a 55 gallon tank.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/the-soil-substrate-explained-343789.html


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[plantnoob]

Hey Caliban, great article on soil! In a month or so my swords are coming out, right after my crypts (planting tomorrow) melt and start growing. I was wondering what to do with them after that. I think I know now. Some experimentation with soil. Just swords planted in soil. See if I can grow them better than in my eco complete substrate.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Caliban07]

Hey Caliban, great article on soil! In a month or so my swords are coming out, right after my crypts (planting tomorrow) melt and start growing. I was wondering what to do with them after that. I think I know now. Some experimentation with soil. Just swords planted in soil. See if I can grow them better than in my eco complete substrate.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

Thanks bud.

In the early part of my build thread I suffered heavily from high organics and low oxygen.

Make sure (even if there are no fish) that you circulate the water well and provide a little surface agitation. Change water every couple of weeks but more so in the early stages as the large amounts of ammonia will be being processed by the bacteria. The swords and crypts should grow well provided the light intensity is not excessively high.

I look forward to this experiment and you should start another experimentation thread. Ive been meaning to go low tech soil substrate again knowing what I know now but haven't got round to it yet.

Remember to choose a topsoil.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Delapool]

So the precipitation I believe is a given. The reaction is bound to happen. Now since Fe concentration is generally less than PO4, not all of your phosphates may precipitate out. Most of your iron might be gone, but the plants may still get a good bit of phosphates. I hadn't done any testing really, but should be easy enough to do a controlled test. I'll play with it this weekend and post results.

Cheers.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

I'd be interested to see the results for sure. I have one chelated iron fert in a powder that I think is really just iron shavings and I suspect is just lying at bottom of tank.

 

[Delapool]

I read about that as well. I have not tried it. Mostly because I don't know how to tell if it made a difference (measure Fe, PO4, observe plant growth?).


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

Do you dose micros and macros each day (from separate bottles) for pps-pro? Wasn't sure on the system there.