Drop checker question

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Prediscus23

Aquarium Advice Freak
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Aug 6, 2012
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Alexandria, LA
Where is the best place to put my drop checker? I have it on the right side panel of my 55 gal. My inflow and outflow pipes are on the right side too but they are on the back panel. Also I have an atomic inline diffuser on the out flow of my fluval 306. The reason I'm asking is my checker fluid isn't changing color. I know there is adequate co2 coming in.

Any thoughts?
 
If the checker fluid isn't changing color then there isn't enough co2 going into the tank. Ideally it should be located as far away from the source of the co2 as possible and the co2 should circulate throughout the tank to give a standard reading in the entire tank. Try upping the co2 a little.
 
I try to put mine either A) somewhere I suspect I will have the lowest CO2 levels or B) somewhere that has water moving up the glass such that there is some movement of the water in the drop checker so that it will reach equilibrium faster (ie, faster response time). I don't know that there's a "right" answer to this necessarily though, and about the only 'wrong' answers I can think of is directly above a ceramic diffuser.

As far as your DC problems, are you using 4 dKH solution and low range pH test solution? How are you diffusing CO2? How long has the DC been in the tank?
 
I try to put mine either A) somewhere I suspect I will have the lowest CO2 levels or B) somewhere that has water moving up the glass such that there is some movement of the water in the drop checker so that it will reach equilibrium faster (ie, faster response time). I don't know that there's a "right" answer to this necessarily though, and about the only 'wrong' answers I can think of is directly above a ceramic diffuser. As far as your DC problems, are you using 4 dKH solution and low range pH test solution? How are you diffusing CO2? How long has the DC been in the tank?


I just put a few ml of distilled water in and 4 drops of the solution that came with it.

I am diffusing for the 6 hrs that my lights are on, I know that it's enough I can see a mass amount of co2 bubbles coming from my out flow. It's been in for a month or so. It used to change colors but stopped a couple of weeks ago.
 
You absolutely need to use 4 dKH solution in your DC, as that's what the color charts are calibrated to. The test solution that comes with the DC is hit and miss, but most people have low range pH liquid test solution, and that's basically all it is.
 
You absolutely need to use 4 dKH solution in your DC, as that's what the color charts are calibrated to. The test solution that comes with the DC is hit and miss, but most people have low range pH liquid test solution, and that's basically all it is.

Oh ok thanks for the advice, so what's the difference? Why do they put the stuff in there if it doesn't work?
 
I assume you're talking about the test reagent? I'm not sure. All I know is that I've had test kits that read green out of the tank (definitely wrong) and others have had non-responsive kits or hyper-responsive kits (yellow at low levels) all using 4 dKH. The stuff that comes out of China seems to be especially bad.
 
I just put a few ml of distilled water in and 4 drops of the solution that came with it.

I am diffusing for the 6 hrs that my lights are on, I know that it's enough I can see a mass amount of co2 bubbles coming from my out flow. It's been in for a month or so. It used to change colors but stopped a couple of weeks ago.

What drop checker did you use? If i'm not mistaken you shouldn't need to add distilled water to it to get it to function properly.
 
I got it off of eBay. That's what the directions said. I dunno. I went ahead and changed the test regeant to low range ph fluid, I'm going to see how that works
 
I got it off of eBay. That's what the directions said. I dunno. I went ahead and changed the test regeant to low range ph fluid, I'm going to see how that works

It'll work, but it won't be working properly. You need to add the low range ph reagent to a liquid with a set and known dkh. Which is why aqua is saying you need 4dkh solution, that is what the color charts are set for. It can be found cheap on eBay.
 
It'll work, but it won't be working properly. You need to add the low range ph reagent to a liquid with a set and known dkh. Which is why aqua is saying you need 4dkh solution, that is what the color charts are set for. It can be found cheap on eBay.

I'm at work right now, I'll check and see exactly what it is that I have and get back to y'all this evening.
 
It'll work, but it won't be working properly. You need to add the low range ph reagent to a liquid with a set and known dkh. Which is why aqua is saying you need 4dkh solution, that is what the color charts are set for. It can be found cheap on eBay.

This is the stuff that I am using. Is this not the best type of fluid to use? If not please steer me toward the fluid most sensitive.
 

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Ok thanks alot, now I have to find a way to get my hands on this stuff....:eek:

Not too hard, you just need RO water, baking soda, a gram scale, and something that measures in mL. The only thing I didn't have on hand already was the gram scale - I was able to get one on ebay for about 10 bucks. It's also been useful for measuring fertilizer.
 
Not too hard, you just need RO water, baking soda, a gram scale, and something that measures in mL. The only thing I didn't have on hand already was the gram scale - I was able to get one on ebay for about 10 bucks. It's also been useful for measuring fertilizer.

What did you use to measure the mls? All I have is the 5 ml API test tubes lol. It would take a long to to do it with that.
 
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