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#1 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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EI/nutrient worksheet for dummies, like me :)
EI for Dummies
The worksheet was designed for EI but it will work for any dosing schedule. I know it makes things almost too simplistic and overly complicated with so many entries but this is what it took for me to finally understand the symantics of dosing and usage with a 50% water change. Well of course, Tom Barr, aka plantbrain needs the credit for EI, I finally understand it and I have come up with a basic worksheet that covers what I think is the important aspects and really lays it on the line for those that just don't get it. I know I didn't until I made so easy that my 6 year old son got it. I am not saying that it needs to be this simple to understand EI but for some of us. Also, without plantbrains willingness to help me understand the system, I would have never been able to get this far and finally get a worksheet that helps me understand it. Thank you Mr. Barr! Anyway: Initial reading is the initial reading before starting EI Tap water is the ppm in your tap water of whatever nutrient you are calculating. The fish food column is there mainly for PO4 as most fish food has it and we can at least enter it this way. It is not a neccesary entry but is there if you want to use it and see how much it makes a difference. The dosing section has the days of the week which are used to input what and how much you plan to dose on that day. The use column is the amount that it is estimated your tank will use. According to the Barr Report, this should be as follows: NO3: 1-4ppm per day PO4: 0.2-0.6ppm per day The ppm column tells you approximately how many ppm you should have on that given day. Edit: If you enter a number in the first space for the "use" column it will enter in all of them. They can then be changed if you want to. If you absolutely want to make sure you will never overdose anything then assume a 0ppm use. I use the middle ground for mine. I know the whole thing seems redundant but there is a reason I did it this way. I looked, and looked and looked at and read and read and read the Bar Report and everything else I could read on EI. I could never get a grasp on concept. The main sticking point for me was how can you blindly dose up to 60ppm on NO3 in a tank and not kill your fish? How can you dose so much PO4 that you don't have algae all over the tank because of the low levels NO3? What was the basics behind this that made it work and not kill our fish? It was very easy once I set this up and realized that every day, a certain amount is being used up. If I dose 10ppm of NO3 on Sunday and by the next dose on Tuesday, there should only be a max of 6ppm left, assuming only 2ppm used by the plants each day. I always figured there was a huge amount of NO3 and I didn't want more than 20ppm. I also figured that a little excess PO4 was ok but to have up to 3.5ppm dosed in my tank and then have my NO3 bottom out would lead to a major algae bloom and a monster green tank. So for all of you out there that have been reluctant to use EI take a look. The best part of the worksheet is it really shows just how much of a role the 50% water change has in keeping our tanks healthy and balanced. With it you can set up a dosing schedule and should see for absolute certain what your plants are missing and be able to adjust your dosing to help them. If you dose enough to make sure you have excess and your plants show a deficiency you should be able to pinpoint the nutrient instead of trying to figure out what combination of things could be causing it. No more worries of: It says that I need to dose 10ppm NO3 every other day but 30ppm of NO3 is not good for the fish. The worksheet also shows what your maximum ppm should be and allows you to adjust so that you can target low nitrates and low phosphates. It just allows you to do anything you want to do and be able to see and understand the way your tank should be using the nutrients. I hope it works for some of you and any feedback, god or bad as long as constructive would be appreciated. I know I had to oversimplify it to understand it so don't rub it in too hard |
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#2 |
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: IA
Posts: 477
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At the risk of sounding really really dumb
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coolchinchilla a small zoo is cool! |
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#5 |
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Planted Geek
Community Mentor
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What operating system are you using? Go to the Microsoft site, and there's a free download in which you can view documents created by Word, Excel, Power Point, etc. But if you are running a MAC, then you may not be able to. The downloads should be in the place where you download updates for MS Office.
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26G Medium Planted Community - 65W CF Lighting - Emperor 280 Bio-Wheel - Established Feb 2004 55G Aggressive Community - Filstar XP3 - Established Dec 2005 75G Heavily Planted - Pressurized CO2, 520W Lighting, Filstar XP3 with spraybar - Established Feb 2006 29G Planted - 130W Lighting, Filstar XP2 with spraybar - Established May 2006 5 10G Tanks - Various setups - Tanks Established May-Sep 2006. 3 currently empty. 5.5G Crypt/Java Fern Tank - Established Oct 2006 My 29G Thread : http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=78469 My 75G Thread : http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=70764 My 75G Makeover Thread: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=87691 |
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#6 | ||
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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Quote:
IMO better than Microsofts bloatware, except in very specific instances that 99.9% of people will never need. Quote:
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20G High -Currently in tank: 1 checkered barb, 1 cory, 1 BN pleco, MTS, variety of platy (fry, juvi, adult), lots of plants. http://www.photolocker.net/images/7Enigma/milfoil2.jpg |
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#7 | |
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
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Quote:
In excel when you make a trendline (linear fit, etc.) it won't give you the equation for the trendline. I know it's picky, but it is a deficiency. Anyways, Openoffice.org is awesome. Like 7enigma said, it does the job very well and is priced very well (free!). |
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#9 |
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 282
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Adding KNO3 to achieve 30ppm of NO3 and adding fish waste to achieve 30ppm of NO3 are entirely different.
Ask your self why that might be............why is it different? Why are some tanks balanced and other's not? Then think about algae, fish health and plants in the context of fish waste. Hint: (something to do with NH4+) 30ppm is srelative number, in general if it's this or less, things are fine, you do not need more, but it has not shown to cause any noted issues for fish. I've gone to 120ppm NO3 with KNO3 dosing, no issues, started killing Amano shrimps at 150-160ppm ranges, but not one fish(wild SA fish at that). 10-30ppm is a big target to hit. If it's 20-40ppm, no big deal, you can adjust if you are obsessive...... Regards, Tom Barr |
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#10 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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That is why it all works. I hope I now understand why it works. I will know if it works for me in the next couple weeks because I dosed according to my EI today and will for a couple weeks and will continue until it fails me.
KNO3 10ppm every other day KH2PO4 1ppm same days, tap has .5ppm K2SO4 6.8ppm same days MgSO4 7ppm day of water change once a week CSM+B 1 tsp in 100ml of water, dose 2 ml for .156ppm on opposite days of above Anyone see anything wrong with the numbers? Any suggestions to change them? But no comments on the spreadsheet, |
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