malkore
Aquarium Advice Addict
the follow post assumes an aquarium with more than 2 watts per gallon (bright lighting) and CO2 injection (DIY or pressurized)
Choosing the right filter for a planted tank isn't too difficult. For tanks 40gallons and up, you'll want a reliable canister filter that's rated for the size of your tank. Eheim, Filstar, and Fluval are the most likely candidates.
Smaller tanks can use powerfilters/HOB's, but you need to avoid biowheels. These agitate the water quite a bit, outgassing a ton of CO2. If you're budget only allows a power filter, don't fret...just keep the tank water level high to minimize the 'waterfall effect' of the water return. I've found AquaClear brand HOB's to be the best: partially for their easy-to-customize filter media, and because they don't use those carbon filted, filter-floss wrapped cartridges. (carbon only lasts 7 days, and isn't necessary or desirable in the planted tank)
Really small 'nano' tanks can often utilize the tiny internal filters made by Fluval and the Marineland 'duetto'. This is what I use for my 5gallon betta tank.
In unplanted tanks, there's no reason you can't over filter or have extra current...but in a planted setup, you don't want to exceed 5x turnover per hour. Your filter's primary operation in a planted tank is mechanical filtration, not biological. The plants are going to help prevent any ammonia spikes, so nitrite shouldn't ever be an issue. Its pretty common to use an extra powerhead at the opposite end as your HOB/canister return, just to give a little better circulation. You don't want dead spots, but it doesn't need to be a spinning vortex of current.
Undergravel filters are NOT to be used in the planted tank. The general consensus is that the suction created on the plates of the UGF can interfere with root growth, and that the roots of other plants will become entangled in the grate. Plus UGF's need to be pulled and cleaned annually, and that's a huge pain with plants, and plant substrates like flourite, which always leaves a cloud when disturbed.
Lastly, do NOT run carbon/charcoal in your filter. It will strip out certain trace nutrients in the water...nutrients the plants need. In a densley planted tank, the plants are a big part of your filtration system. Plus, carbon only lasts 7 days, and it's primary purpose is removing medications, and odors from the water. A properly maintained planted tank will have a slight 'earthy' smell. If the tank stinks like fish, you're not keeping up on water changes and/or may be over-stocked.
Choosing the right filter for a planted tank isn't too difficult. For tanks 40gallons and up, you'll want a reliable canister filter that's rated for the size of your tank. Eheim, Filstar, and Fluval are the most likely candidates.
Smaller tanks can use powerfilters/HOB's, but you need to avoid biowheels. These agitate the water quite a bit, outgassing a ton of CO2. If you're budget only allows a power filter, don't fret...just keep the tank water level high to minimize the 'waterfall effect' of the water return. I've found AquaClear brand HOB's to be the best: partially for their easy-to-customize filter media, and because they don't use those carbon filted, filter-floss wrapped cartridges. (carbon only lasts 7 days, and isn't necessary or desirable in the planted tank)
Really small 'nano' tanks can often utilize the tiny internal filters made by Fluval and the Marineland 'duetto'. This is what I use for my 5gallon betta tank.
In unplanted tanks, there's no reason you can't over filter or have extra current...but in a planted setup, you don't want to exceed 5x turnover per hour. Your filter's primary operation in a planted tank is mechanical filtration, not biological. The plants are going to help prevent any ammonia spikes, so nitrite shouldn't ever be an issue. Its pretty common to use an extra powerhead at the opposite end as your HOB/canister return, just to give a little better circulation. You don't want dead spots, but it doesn't need to be a spinning vortex of current.
Undergravel filters are NOT to be used in the planted tank. The general consensus is that the suction created on the plates of the UGF can interfere with root growth, and that the roots of other plants will become entangled in the grate. Plus UGF's need to be pulled and cleaned annually, and that's a huge pain with plants, and plant substrates like flourite, which always leaves a cloud when disturbed.
Lastly, do NOT run carbon/charcoal in your filter. It will strip out certain trace nutrients in the water...nutrients the plants need. In a densley planted tank, the plants are a big part of your filtration system. Plus, carbon only lasts 7 days, and it's primary purpose is removing medications, and odors from the water. A properly maintained planted tank will have a slight 'earthy' smell. If the tank stinks like fish, you're not keeping up on water changes and/or may be over-stocked.
can i just dump out the carbon to help? or buy a different filter?
