It seems this is my problem:
Green water (algae bloom)
This is the most common problem if the cloudy situation extends beyond 10-14 days. Note that "green water" (GW) is not always green in appearance! Since GW is the most common problem and the most difficult to solve the answer needs to reflect several options. The situation that causes GW is usually a combination of high nitrates, phosphates, and mixed in some ammonia/ammonium. Substrate disturbance is usually the culprit. What happens is the algae (GW form) will flourish off of the ammonia/ammonium and phosphate, remembering that algae can consume phosphate easier than plants because of their thin cell walls, the algae uses up the ammonia/ammonium and phosphate, but it doesn't go away...because algae can quickly switch which nutrient it scavenges...it moves to nitrates. So you can see why water changes will not rid a tank of GW. Nutrients can be reduced very low in GW and fairly quickly by the GW algaes, but they can scavenge other nutrients...iron and trace elements. So, it's very common for the GW to solve the situation that causes it to begin with, but that won't eliminate the GW, for the reasons I've alluded to. Five methods exist to eliminate GW. Blackout, Diatom Filtering, UV Sterilization, Live Daphnia, and Chemical algaecides/flocculents. The first four cause no harm to fish, the fifth one does.
Method No. 1 - Blackout
The blackout method consists of covering the tank for 4 days, so no light whatsoever is allowed into the tank during this time. Cover the tank completely with blankets or black plastic trash bags. Be prepared, killing the algae will result in dead decaying algae that will decompose and pollute the water. Water changes are needed at the beginning and end of the blackout time and ammonia should be monitored also.
Method No. 2 - Diatom Filtering
Diatom filters can sometimes be rented from your LFS. This is my preferred method. Personally, I use my Magnum 350 w/Micron Cartridge coated with diatom powder. Diatom filtering removes the algae and doesn't allow it to decay in the tank. You do have to check the filter often, if you have a really bad case of GW the filter can clog pretty quick. Just clean it and start it up again. Crystal clear water usually takes from a few minutes to a couple of hours.
Method No. 3 - UV Sterilization
UV Sterilizers will kill free floating algae. They also kill free floating parasites and bacteria. They also can be problematic for extended use in a planted tank, as they will cause the “breakdown” of some important nutrients. They are expensive and don't remove the decaying material from the tank, if you can afford to keep one they are handy to have around, though not as useful IMO as a diatom filter.
Method No. 4 - Live Daphnia
Adding live daphnia to your tank. This can be a bit tricky. First you need to ensure that you are not adding other "pests" along with the daphnia. Second, unless you can separate the daphnia from the fish, the fish will likely consume the daphnia before the daphnia can consume all the green water.
Method No. 5 - Chemical algaecides/flocculents
I hate the last way, the flocculents stick to the gills of fish. Although it won't actually kill them, it does compromise their gill function for quite a while, leaving them open for other maladies.
(Taken from the website linked in my previous post)
I've had the lights off since that first post suggesting it, I've been dosing Flourish excel and comprehensive and I did a 50% water change.
From the article I quoted above, it seems that the approaches to getting rid of the algae are pretty severe. Are those the only options? Is there anything else I can do that would be helping to keep things under control? Thanks.
