Lighting equivalency

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Straick85

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I'm trying to figure out the limits of my current lighting on my 55, which i keep on otherwise open top(the only thing across the top is the light).
My light is a Lights Of America t12 fixture that i converted over to t8 lamps(one of the original ballasts had quick, and the other was well on it's way). Both of the 32 watt lamps are being driven 2x over normal, until i get a second 4 lamp ballast, at which point they will be driven 4x over.
What would these setups work out to in lighting levels for plants that be kept?

Thanks for the help in advance, and I'm aware that overdriving flourescents is old school, but a nice LED fixture is out of my wallets reach for the moment.
 
There is a chart that lists the PAR levels for several popular fluorescent fixtures. From that you can determine which level (low, medium, high) of light the fixture can be classified as yet.
I have to dig it up...might take a bit.


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I've saved the chart, and thank you for that. I'm assuming that the t8 curve is for normally driven lamps, and that's where my issue on figuring this out is at. I know overdriving lamps produces more light, but how much more?
Once everything has settled in, i would like to do a dwarf hairgrass carpet, but from what I've been told, you need high light levels for that.

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I've saved the chart, and thank you for that. I'm assuming that the t8 curve is for normally driven lamps, and that's where my issue on figuring this out is at. I know overdriving lamps produces more light, but how much more?
Once everything has settled in, i would like to do a dwarf hairgrass carpet, but from what I've been told, you need high light levels for that.

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Can you not get a T5 high output fixture? These would probably do a better job of growing hair grass.

I don't know anything about overdriving fluorescents sorry.


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Sadly, everytime I'm around t5 fixtures and cfl bulbs (the screw in ones) I end up with a migraine. I've tried several different setups in the past as an experiment, and ended up with the same results, even when I can't see which one is on.

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Sadly, everytime I'm around t5 fixtures and cfl bulbs (the screw in ones) I end up with a migraine. I've tried several different setups in the past as an experiment, and ended up with the same results, even when I can't see which one is on.

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Sorry I don't understand what you mean here.

What same results?

Why do you get migraines?


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By the same results, i mean getting the migraines. They have to do with the frequency that the ballast drives the lamps at on the t5 lamps. The only solution I have found, albeit impractical, is to fully surround the fixture in a properly grounded faradae cage, but that drops the light ouput down drastically.
That's why I'm planning on buying a LED fixture, but I have to set aside the money first. LED's are a constant current, dc lighting source, so the only issue point would be the power supply, but that is a very simple matter to shield if it triggers problems.


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Sorry to hear about your issue. The "brick" portion of the power supply for Finnex series LED fixtures (and possibly other brands) are located a few feet away from the fixture along the power cord. Should be enough slack to insulate it as needed without affecting light output.


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By the same results, i mean getting the migraines. They have to do with the frequency that the ballast drives the lamps at on the t5 lamps. The only solution I have found, albeit impractical, is to fully surround the fixture in a properly grounded faradae cage, but that drops the light ouput down drastically.
That's why I'm planning on buying a LED fixture, but I have to set aside the money first. LED's are a constant current, dc lighting source, so the only issue point would be the power supply, but that is a very simple matter to shield if it triggers problems.


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This affects you looking in to the tank directly or when opening the lid?


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The t5's affect me anytime I'm around them, even if i can't see the light.
That's why I'm planning on getting a LED fixture when i buy a new one. Sadly, it won't be for at least a year yet, hence the reason I was wondering how the over driven t8 lamps work out to on lighting levels.

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The t5's affect me anytime I'm around them, even if i can't see the light.
That's why I'm planning on getting a LED fixture when i buy a new one. Sadly, it won't be for at least a year yet, hence the reason I was wondering how the over driven t8 lamps work out to on lighting levels.

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Ah I see. Sorry to hear that you can't use the T5's

LED is your best bet if you want to grow a carpet.


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Would my lighting be able to start a carpet, or am I just too low?
I do know that I've got some anachris naja that is growing in excellent, and from what I've read, it needs higher light levels to thrive.

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Would my lighting be able to start a carpet, or am I just too low?
I do know that I've got some anachris naja that is growing in excellent, and from what I've read, it needs higher light levels to thrive.

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It's tough to say. You need more than light to grow plants, you need nutrients too. So long as the light is above the plants light compensation point and you have enough co2 and nutrients in the water column the plant will grow. Because light dictates the rate of growth and people want fast carpets then high light is used which means more co2 and more nutrients. Some plants tend to grow upwards and become more 'leggy' in low light situations. It depends on the plants in question.

I have witnessed new shoots of hairgrass develop under t8 tubes with reflectors but the growth was so slow it was unbearable and eventually the shoots would burn out and die but this could be attributed to more than just lack of light in my situation.


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I am dosing ferts, 1ml of Flourish and Flourish Iron daily, Synthesis N as needed, based on testing, and pressurized CO2(I need to adjust either my schedule or rate, CO2 is low atm, based on drop checker with 4dkh solution). I still need to get a source of phosphate and potassium, seeing as how my phosphate tests out at 0 regularly, and I have had porassium deficiencies in the past.

I know that my current limiting factor will be the lighting, which is why I was wondering were it worked out for light level.

This would be so much easier if I had a par meter, but alas, they are more than an LED fixture. I know that the light level across the tank seems about the same as my 10 was when I was running 30 watt of t8 over it (I didn't know then what i now know), at least that's to my eye, but that can't be relied on for light level for plants.
 
I am dosing ferts, 1ml of Flourish and Flourish Iron daily, Synthesis N as needed, based on testing, and pressurized CO2(I need to adjust either my schedule or rate, CO2 is low atm, based on drop checker with 4dkh solution). I still need to get a source of phosphate and potassium, seeing as how my phosphate tests out at 0 regularly, and I have had porassium deficiencies in the past.

I know that my current limiting factor will be the lighting, which is why I was wondering were it worked out for light level.

This would be so much easier if I had a par meter, but alas, they are more than an LED fixture. I know that the light level across the tank seems about the same as my 10 was when I was running 30 watt of t8 over it (I didn't know then what i now know), at least that's to my eye, but that can't be relied on for light level for plants.


Sounds like you have everything else under control. In that case you could just try your current lighting and see how you get on. Increase the lighting when you can.

Like I said, I did see positive growth from my hairgrass under t8s in a 46 gallon. This was without co2 addition or nutrient dosing as I was trying the Walstad method. You may stand a better chance. I would recommend a decent set of clip on reflectors for your current tubes.


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I've saved the chart, and thank you for that. I'm assuming that the t8 curve is for normally driven lamps, and that's where my issue on figuring this out is at. I know overdriving lamps produces more light, but how much more?
Once everything has settled in, i would like to do a dwarf hairgrass carpet, but from what I've been told, you need high light levels for that.

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You can carpet Dwarf Sag in low light. It's a nice alternative to Dwarf Hairgrass.


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