More planted tank questions....

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phoenixkiller

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Yep, that's right, more questions about the same darned 50g tank. I just compiled all my remaining questions into one thread, so it'll be easier to sift through.
1. I am planning on shifting back to my idea of using 60lbs of Eco-Complete. Is it rich ENOUGH to support crypts, swords, and lotuses without root tabs? I can do root tabs, but I would go through them fast, I'm sure.

2. I have compiled a list of plants that I want in this tank, and where in the tank I want them placed. Specifics about the tank are below the list, along with a link to the light I want.

Plants I want for the 50g
Background –
Back/left corner –
A. Red Cabomba
B. Purple Cabomba
Back/back –
A. Alternanthera Reickneii
B.
C.
Back/right corner –
A. Contortion Val.
B. Jungle Val
Midground –
Mid/left – Swords?
Mid/mid – Dwarf Sag
Mid/right – Red tiger lotus
Foreground –
Fore/left – Ranunculus Inundatus
Fore/mid – Ranunculus Inundatus
Fore/ right - Ranunculus Inundatus

Any ideas? Thoughts? Criticisms? Suggestions for more/less plants?

Usual pH: Around 8. Varies by tank.
Lighting: Amazon.com: Odyssea 36" T5 HO Aquarium Light Dual Fluorescent Hood Fixture - Plant 2x39W: Pet Supplies
Fertilizers: I (will) dose full EI dosings of N,P,K, and micros. If root tabs are needed for specific plants, I will put a few in there. I have 50 root tabs rich in a ton of things coming in today.
Will be using pressurized CO2 (Or CO2 of any kind [Excel, DIY, or pressurized]) No.
Size of tank: 50 gallon acrylic (36" long, 20" high, 15" wide)

If I have more questions, I will be sure to add them!

Thanks!!
________
 
As far as plants go I'd switch out the two Cabomba's for Red Myrio (Myriophyllum heterophyllum) and Myriophyllum tuberculatum. Reason being is the Cabomba's are messy shedders and Myrio's are much neater. You are still getting about the same plant shape without the messy factor. I'd also add a couple crypts in there to add a different shape/texture to all the stem plants. Make sure to leave enough room for the swords so they don't shade out your stem plants. Same with the red tiger lotus... mine is still young and already is taking up a space about 9x9 inchesand is about 8 inches tall. I keep some leaves trimmed, ones that are going to the surface get cut to encourage bottom growth as I want no floaters, and any that start encringing into other plants growing space.

All root tabs are different but mine I add about every 3 months. Some here make homemade root tabs so if interested you might want to post about it. Swords are the ones that are nutrient hogs and will need the most in root fertilization. It is also a good idea to put swords in and leave them, they develop huge root systems and are a mess to move once they get established.
 
A lot of those plants would really appreciate co2, especially your choice in foreground.


What exactly are you imagining this tank looking like when it's done. Do you have a goal?
 
A lot of those plants would really appreciate co2, especially your choice in foreground.


What exactly are you imagining this tank looking like when it's done. Do you have a goal?
Foreground thing was a long shot, I will change it to Hydrocotyle Tripartitia.

Goal.... hmm... I just had a bunch of plant ideas, and tried to put them all in a list. Umm, I want some tall thin plants in the back, some contrasting colored ones. That was why I like the Cabomba. I wanted some large plants on the sides (Hence the Red tiger lotus and the Swords), and a foreground plant that has the majority of its leaves a few inches above the surface, to provide cover for the future African brown knife. I wanted that effect so he would hide under the leaves in the foreground in the daytime, so I can SEE him in the daytime.

So for the most part it was throwing together a hasty idea, and as you can see, (The list) was not the result of weeks of research and planning.

So if ya could give me some suggestions to make a more realistic list, that'd be great!
 
As far as plants go I'd switch out the two Cabomba's for Red Myrio (Myriophyllum heterophyllum) and Myriophyllum tuberculatum. Reason being is the Cabomba's are messy shedders and Myrio's are much neater. You are still getting about the same plant shape without the messy factor. I'd also add a couple crypts in there to add a different shape/texture to all the stem plants. Make sure to leave enough room for the swords so they don't shade out your stem plants. Same with the red tiger lotus... mine is still young and already is taking up a space about 9x9 inchesand is about 8 inches tall. I keep some leaves trimmed, ones that are going to the surface get cut to encourage bottom growth as I want no floaters, and any that start encringing into other plants growing space.

All root tabs are different but mine I add about every 3 months. Some here make homemade root tabs so if interested you might want to post about it. Swords are the ones that are nutrient hogs and will need the most in root fertilization. It is also a good idea to put swords in and leave them, they develop huge root systems and are a mess to move once they get established.
Thank you for the great reply! Very helpful and insightful.

I'll look into the Myrios. This was a crude list, just a bunch of ideas thrown together.

Regarding getting Crypts: I will have a good sized Crypt Wendtii 'Bronze' somewhere in there, dunno where yet though.

Sounds good, I'll have to keep a close eye on the Lotus growth and keep it under control.

I got some root tabs today, and they should last me a while, so I'll use a few and see how it goes.
 
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