My Plan to Get Rid of Algae

[pitt420dude]

Loachie you don't have to take anything out you don't want to. If it grows, it grows, no matter how it was "meant" to be grown. I think it's beautiful and if it works for you, go with it. I think purrbox was trying ot give you a heads up so you won't be surprised if it melts or can keep an eye on it.

Yeah that site is great for algae issues b/c they give pics too. Thank neil b/c he is who I found it through.

BTW, I got my dry ferts through Welcome To The Home Of The Best Aquarium Regulator and with the shipment ($20 combo pack will last you a LONG time) he gives you a dosing regime for EI as well.

[Purrbox]

Originally Posted by Loachie

As for the striped plant, it's supposed to be a color mutation of the Amazon sword - at least, that's what the LFS said. I really like it - is it necessary to take it out?

I'd just keep an eye on it. It may be fine. Some non Aquatics will do fine for several months and then suddenly die, so just because it's it's doing well now doesn't guarentee that it will work out long term. If it is actually a Amazon Sword varient then it should be fine.

[Loachie]

Ok, here's my new plan :

1) Change to a better fertilizer. I'm a little confused on this, due to all the choices out there. Purrbox, your advice was great... but I'm afraid I could use even more. Tropica Plant Nutrition Liquid doesn't have Nitrogen or phosphorus, which my tank seems to need more of. Tropica Plant Nutrition + has N and P, but their website states, "The fertilizer is particularly suitable where plants display a lack of nutrition. However note that if algae growth starts, PLANT NUTRITION+ liquid will promote this growth." That doesn't sound good.

I also looked into PMDD Pre-Mix. The website says: " PMDD Pre-Mix 1 lb contains 1 part each of Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate, Plantex CSM+B." It's cheap, and sounds pretty good. But then I saw a fertilizer comparison chart (Fertilizer Comparison Chart, by Giancarlo Podio ) and it looks like Flourish has every trace element you could ever need.

So, is Flourish the best (although probably the most expensive) choice?

2) Getting more leafy plants - I'm not so crazy about getting more wisteria, since it loses its bottom leaves, needing to be trimmed and replanted to keep it from looking too leggy. I don't mind the maintenance, but I'd like a plant that looks a little more full and compact. I like the look of Rotalia rotundifolia - will it lose its bottom leaves as quickly as wisteria?

3) CO2 - Do I need to add this? From what I'm reading, it sounds very important for my plants, but complicated. Maybe I should start with the homemade "yeast in a bottle" setup? It sound like it will keep the plants healthier, which will reduce algae, and it will naturally lower Ph. Although I'm convinced that I should stop chemically altering the Ph, it would be a nice bonus to have the CO2 keeping the Ph closer to the ideal parameters for my fish. On the other hand, it looks like I could spend anywhere from $10 to $500 on a CO2 setup and I really don't know what is necessary (definitely not going to spend enough for one of the high-end setups). I have no idea what a "solenoid" is, or how to choose the correct "barbs" for my "check valve." I had no idea what a humbling experience this planted tank would be.

So, Flourish Complete + Rotalia rotundifolia + simple CO2 setup = no more algae problem (hopefully)?

[Purrbox]

You'll want to select one of Tropica Plant Nutrition, Flourish Comprehensive, or CSM+B for your micronutrient fertilization. All three are good but none with provide the macro nutrients (at least not in sufficient quantities).

You can go with the Flourish Line (Flourish Nitrogen, Flourish Potassium, and Flourish Phosphorus) for you macro nutrients, but these are very dilute and will end up being very expensive. Your best bet is the dry ferts (KNO3, K2SO4, & KH2PH4). You can locate these locally in in other forms (KNO3 is the primary ingrediant of some stump killers, KCl is the primary ingrediant of some salt alternatives like NoSalt, and KH2PO4 is available in Fleet Enema) but even easier is to simply buy these online if you are in the US. Rex Griggs and Planted Aquarium Fertilizer are a couple of common sources. If you aren't in the US then locating a Hydroponics store is your best bet.

You amount of light will determine how well stem plants keep their lower leaves. If the wisteria is having problems then the other stem plants probably will too. All stem plants eventually need to be topped and replanted to keep them looking nice. Keep in mind the recommendation for the stem plants is to help get your aquarium established and algae free. You don't have to want to keep them long term. Once you get everything balanced you can work on switching them out slowly for plants that you actually do want to keep.

CO2 is a source of carbon. Providing additional carbon will help plants as long as their minimum needs for light are met. Adding carbon will cause the plants to grow faster and increase their demands for nutrients, so you would need to be prepared to increase dosing if necessary. Until you get over 2WPG you can usually have a very nice planted aquarium without messing with carbon supplementation.

You may find this article very helpful when it comes to figuring out the various types of CO2 setups. Notice the link to DIY CO2 at the top for more info about DIY setups.

[JohnPaul]

Originally Posted by Loachie

According to the website, I should increase my nitrates. Anyone know how to do this? What would cause low nitrate levels?

The most likely culprit is you are "too good" at doing your partial water changes. Remember, nitrates are what are produced at the end of the nitrogen cycle. So the most natural way (in the context of an aquarium) to increase your nitrates would be to do your PWC's less often and/or to add more fish to your tank (so you generate more fish waste).

[kimo]

Originally Posted by JohnPaul

The most likely culprit is you are "too good" at doing your partial water changes. Remember, nitrates are what are produced at the end of the nitrogen cycle. So the most natural way (in the context of an aquarium) to increase your nitrates would be to do your PWC's less often and/or to add more fish to your tank (so you generate more fish waste).

AND: The more plants you add to the tank, the more they soak up the available ammonia (fish waste before its broken down by nitrites), nitrates.
You'll have to increase fertilizers or bio-load. Some heavily planted tanks with low bio-load started from day 1 do not cycle at all unless helped along.
Water changes should be kept to a minimum UNLESS there is a clear reason to do it. 20% per month should be plenty for a normally stocked, moderately planted, low/medium light tank. A sterile tank (one that has the gravel vacuumed every week, water changes every few days, spotless with no algae, is a sick tank. It will never come into equilibrium.