Need advice for switching to live plants

[FishyBusiness]

I hope someone here can help me, I've not kept live plants in about 15 years, so I have a lot to learn!

I've had my 90 gallon tank running for about 3 years now and I'd like to change out my fake plants for live. I really know nothing about any of this. I doubt I have the lighting required but that's one of the main reasons why I'm here too. I have the 48" aqueon LED light with the standard day strip and I have a colormax strip also. I have no idea if that's sufficent for plants. If not, I'll just keep the fake ones because I'm not going to change the lighting out. Also I don't have co2... So here's some plants I'm considering...


Or any other ideas that would work or if those 4 specifically won't please let me know.

I'd get the seachem flourish and their root tabs. I seen they have an iron one too, wonder if I'd need that also?

My substrate was gravel, just switched to PFS.

Any advice for me would be wonderful!

 

[dcutl002]

Only the first of those plants may suited for what you have, you should try: Anubias, Java Fern, Cryptocorynes, Tiger Lotus, Aponogetons. You will not need CO2 unless you get Medium-High to High Light. I will say that live plants tend to make healthier fish.

 

[Grumble69]

While you're looking, take a peek at this site too for ideas:

Live Aquarium Plants

They have a lot of plants broken down by categories (lighting, foreground/background, etc). I've ordered from them and been happy with my plants.

I'm still new to planted tanks. But from my experience, low light plants have been the easiest to maintain so far. I occasionally have to do some trimming, but it's as close to "plant & forget" as you can go. I've got Alternanthera Reineckii, Anubias Barteri 'Coffeefolia' (reminds me of a peace lily), Aponogeton, and Riccia Fluitans (held to rocks with a hair net cut to size).

I've got another tank with medium-to-high lighting. My intention was to not get into CO2 and just use Excel. But with the higher lighting, you have to be careful at balancing lighting hours, ferts, co2/excel or you can get bad problems with algae. Then you get the chore of figuring out where the problem lies. For me, the solution was moving up to DIY CO2 because the Excel just wasn't cutting it. My plants are thriving now. Algae is under control. The DIY CO2 wasn't hard or expensive; just change a bottle out every week. ...but those first few months were a bit rough until things got settled. It is worth it though.

 

[FishyBusiness]

I think that's the biggest reason I'm nervous to make the change is because of algae issues. I get diatoms from time to time but nothing major. I remember years ago I got some plants from petsmart (don't even know what kind lol) and I'd have stringy green algae on them, sometimes brownish... But I see all these tanks that don't have that issue.

 

[BBradbury]

Hello Fish...

Since you're starting out, we'll make things easy. Select only dark green plants, they need only low, subdued lighting. What you currently have is very likely enough light. Some examples are Anubias nana or nangi, any of the mosses like Christmas or Singapore. There are several floating plants that don't need planting. Anacharis, Pennywort (a little lighter green) and Hornwort are all good.

You just need to change half the tank water every couple of weeks to maintain healthy mineral levels and dose a good liquid fertilizer like Seachem's Comprehensive according to instructions when you change the water.

Pretty simple.

B

 

[Coursair]

I've had luck with 3 of the four plants. Dwarf Hairgrass ( DHG) is usually a more advanced plant. It grows best under High Light and injected CO2.

I've grown the other 3 with just liquid Ferts 1x weekly after my weekly PWC. I did add a Root Tab for my Dwarf Chain Swords...they took off !!Planted tanks normally IME thrive with weekly PWCs. Mine I do 25% or what's needed.

If you go with Dry Ferts then it's cheaper esp for a big tank, but you'll change 50% water weekly.

If you are getting algae there is something out of balance. Usually too much light or overfeeding or not enough water changes.

Planted tanks only need lights on for 6-8 hours.

I love Crypts. There are many kinds. They are heavy root feeders so they need root tabs every 4 months or so.

Anubias and Ferns get tied or glued to rocks or wood.

Substrate needs to be a bit deeper for plants. I try for at least 2-3".

To save money you can buy the dry form of Prime. Safe http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Safe.htmlor even Prime for Ponds http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/PondPrime.html

The easy way to start with Ferts is liquid. I use API Leaf Zone and Flourish Comprehensive as they work well together and cover Micro and Macro nutrients.

Then later you can go to dry to save money.
Here are a couple of good sites
http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizers-supplements/pps-pro-fertilizer-package.html

http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/index.asp?Option1=cats&Edit=9&EditU=1&Regit=9

If you join The Planted Tank (free) you have access to their sales forum. I've bought from several other hobbyists.
Don't know if this link will work
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=621602

Also check our sales forum here on AA. Occasionally Ferts are for sale.
Plants often for sale.


Smoke signals from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BBradbury]

Algae Problem

I think that's the biggest reason I'm nervous to make the change is because of algae issues. I get diatoms from time to time but nothing major. I remember years ago I got some plants from petsmart (don't even know what kind lol) and I'd have stringy green algae on them, sometimes brownish... But I see all these tanks that don't have that issue.

Hello again Fish...

Algae can be a problem for a tank in the beginning because the water, fish and plants need time to work out the water chemistry. Floating plants like Hornwort and Brazilian water weed (Anacharis) are natural water filters and help stabilize the water chemistry by using dissolved nutrients before algae can use them and in the case of the Anacharis plant that gives off a mild toxin that slows or even stops the growth of algae, you won't have a problem.

If you're careful how much you feed and get some help from Ramshorn snails that thrive on all kinds of algae. As your tank ages, the algae will shrink to a very manageable level.

B

 

[dcutl002]

I did not know that about Hornwort. Good info.

 

[MeCasa]

Great link Grumble

Thank you

 

[Coryluv]

Congrats on going planted. I've just completed my first year of planted and have found it far more rewarding than frustrating.

Algae control is part art and part science IMO. Feeding your plants properly is a must. In a low light setting your plants will especially like a liquid carbon like Excel. The algae will not like the liquid carbon. CO2, liquid or injected, helps with algae. So it's a win-win. Light is the other leg of the algae triad. Keep those three as well as any algae eating critters in balance and you will have a pretty tank with just enough algae to look natural and give the livestock something to nibble.

I have pond snails and two mystery snails to help control. Almost everyone uses snails, shrimp or algae eating fish to help out on the algae.

I have an acrylic tank so an old, suitably repurposed plastic ID card is my best friend for quick green spot algae removal.

I've had a few minor algae flare ups, but nothing bad. Right now my algae is truly in remission, and that is rewarding, too.

You might consider quarantining plants as well as fish to avoid something like the dreaded black brush algae. I've so far been spared.

Here is a guide to algae I like even though it s geared to high tech planted:

James' Planted Tank - Algae Guide

 

[FishyBusiness]

All excellent information, thank you!

 

[MM2]

Anubias..you can probably leave the light off and it will still grow. Easy plant.

 

[FishyBusiness]

So I'm making a trip to petsmart this weekend to see what they have available. I've never had algae problems before except diatoms from time to time. If I get live plants, would anything change for algae problems if I use homemade root tabs for their fertilization?