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Old 08-31-2016, 07:15 PM   #11
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The Monte Carlo would be fine In soil and sand or even just sand with root tabs pushed near them. You would be fertilising the water column anyway so in essence the Monte Carlo would receive nutrients. The nutrients within soil that are most abundant are the micro nutrients or 'trace' elements and the plants need only very small quantities of these. The soil will last for years in terms of micronutrients. You would just need to add the macro nutrients, nitrogen (potassium nitrate) phosphorus (potassium phosphate) and potassium which is provided in the latter two. That's it.

I forgot to add that you need to forget the 24/7 feature of the 24/7 fixture. You need one eight hour photoperiod at whatever percentage intensity you desire.

As for co2. I can't count the bubble rate in my tank because they are moving so quickly. The drop checker is lime green in my tank and the ph drops to 5.9 at the height of co2 injection yet my fauna are fine. That includes ottos and shrimp.

You need to tweak the co2 up. This will help the plants draw on the excess ammonia being leached by the soil.

As the bacteria begin to breakdown the organic matter and ammonia in the soil the oxygen levels will decrease. So it's really important to try to keep o2 levels stable by creating a soft ripple at the surface. A strong flow rate will also help deliver oxygen and nutrients around the tank and aid the plants in terms of co2 delivery and uptake.

Edit: also do not chase the 'pearling effect' pearling just means that the plants are producing oxygen faster than it is able to dissolve in the water. Whilst it is true higher light intensity aids this phenomenon it doesn't mean that your plants are not healthy if they do not pearl. Better to have slow growing healthy plants than fast growing unhealthy plants. More light means you need more co2 and nutrients so you could turn the 24/7 fixture to maximum but you need to tweak the co2 up slowly until you see healthy new growth sprouting from the plants.

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This sheds a lot of light.....so many thank yous!!!!! I will definitely try your suggestions.
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Old 09-01-2016, 01:40 AM   #12
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This sheds a lot of light.....so many thank yous!!!!! I will definitely try your suggestions.

You're welcome and good luck.


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Old 09-21-2016, 05:37 PM   #13
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Hi Biochem

Any improvements?


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Old 09-22-2016, 08:23 AM   #14
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Hi Biochem

Any improvements?


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Hi. Funny you should ask. I'm in the midst of testing the variables, while cycling the filter again.

I'm currently cycling the filter off of an 18 gal plastic tub. As bio media, just decided to use very porous lava rock. On the interim, I have a medium sized round tupperware about 4" tall (filled with 2.5" of organic soil and topped with 1" flourite black sand). So far I'm, successfully growing an Aponogeton madagascariensis bulb. Within three weeks, its grown 6 shoots and has developed its first true leaf. Leaf growth is about 1/4 - 1/2 inch per day. Not sure why the leaf is dark green to dark brown, but it looks healthy (may be a different var?). Also, I haven't column dosed at all. Just ammonia for the cycling.

I didn't really fertilize the substrate. I just added 2 small Osmocote pebbles. My CO2 is ramped up where the indicator is lime-green. I also set the finnex planted + 24/7 to max (on a timer).

So far, I've noticed algal growth, when nitrate is high. On the flip side, this is a good thing. Bacterial growth is flourishing in those lava rocks.

All is do is test for the all 3 (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) to monitor cycling. As soon as my nitrate levels start reaching 50-60 ppm, I do a 50-75 water change. The water change itself is composed of 50% RO/DI and 50% dechlorinated tap.

I know some of these parameters and dosing parameters will change when I ready to fully scape again. One step and a time - its progress!
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Old 09-26-2016, 05:00 AM   #15
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Hi. Funny you should ask. I'm in the midst of testing the variables, while cycling the filter again.



I'm currently cycling the filter off of an 18 gal plastic tub. As bio media, just decided to use very porous lava rock. On the interim, I have a medium sized round tupperware about 4" tall (filled with 2.5" of organic soil and topped with 1" flourite black sand). So far I'm, successfully growing an Aponogeton madagascariensis bulb. Within three weeks, its grown 6 shoots and has developed its first true leaf. Leaf growth is about 1/4 - 1/2 inch per day. Not sure why the leaf is dark green to dark brown, but it looks healthy (may be a different var?). Also, I haven't column dosed at all. Just ammonia for the cycling.



I didn't really fertilize the substrate. I just added 2 small Osmocote pebbles. My CO2 is ramped up where the indicator is lime-green. I also set the finnex planted + 24/7 to max (on a timer).



So far, I've noticed algal growth, when nitrate is high. On the flip side, this is a good thing. Bacterial growth is flourishing in those lava rocks.



All is do is test for the all 3 (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) to monitor cycling. As soon as my nitrate levels start reaching 50-60 ppm, I do a 50-75 water change. The water change itself is composed of 50% RO/DI and 50% dechlorinated tap.



I know some of these parameters and dosing parameters will change when I ready to fully scape again. One step and a time - its progress!

Excellent. Glad you are making progress! Keep us informed.


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