Need opinions on lighting/CO2

[AJ_117]

For my 29g, I'm considering buying the Finnex Ray 2 and getting a sliding glass canopy for the top. Also, for CO2, Fluval sells a kit for a 15g ($25) and one for a 40g ($85). I was considering getting two of the 15g ones to save money and also not have overkill in terms of CO2.

Does anybody have any suggestions/recommendations? Has anyone ever used the Ray 2 also? Thanks you for any input.

 

[dcutl002]

For my 29g, I'm considering buying the Finnex Ray 2 and getting a sliding glass canopy for the top. Also, for CO2, Fluval sells a kit for a 15g ($25) and one for a 40g ($85). I was considering getting two of the 15g ones to save money and also not have overkill in terms of CO2.

Does anybody have any suggestions/recommendations? Has anyone ever used the Ray 2 also? Thanks you for any input.

I have an Ista 45g kit and a 95g kit...in my opinion those kits are a waste of money. It would be more desirable, and cheaper in the long run to just buy a nice 2-stage regulator and a 5 or 10 pound CO2 tank. I buy mine from the local welding supply. there is an initial deposit on the CO2 tank plus the CO2, but after that I just trade the tank in on a filled tank and then I just pay for the CO2. I started with a 5 pound tank, upgraded to a 10 and then to a 20. The bigger the tank, the cheaper the CO2.

In conclusion, those little CO2 bottles are cute, small, and all that, but they will nickel and dime you all the way to the bank.

EDIT: I do not possess a Ray2, but I do have a Planted +. Finnex makes a great light for the money IMO.

 

[AJ_117]

I have an Ista 45g kit and a 95g kit...in my opinion those kits are a waste of money. It would be more desirable, and cheaper in the long run to just buy a nice 2-stage regulator and a 5 or 10 pound CO2 tank. I buy mine from the local welding supply. there is an initial deposit on the CO2 tank plus the CO2, but after that I just trade the tank in on a filled tank and then I just pay for the CO2. I started with a 5 pound tank, upgraded to a 10 and then to a 20. The bigger the tank, the cheaper the CO2.

In conclusion, those little CO2 bottles are cute, small, and all that, but they will nickel and dime you all the way to the bank.

EDIT: I do not possess a Ray2, but I do have a Planted +. Finnex makes a great light for the money IMO.

Could I possibly get away with using a decent lighting system and substituting excel/flourish instead of CO2? Sorry, I'm still pretty new to the whole planted tank scene and I don't want to burn a hole though my wallet haha.

Is it true though, if I use high light without CO2 I'll have terrible algae breakouts?

 

[dcutl002]

Hey, I fully understand. If you are on a budget check out Aquatraders for Green Element/ Beamswork LED lights. (Make sure that it is for Freshwater 6500K or 7000K). Also go to Amazon and buy a gallon of Metricide 14. A gallon of Metricide costs about the same as a liter of Excel, plus you only need about half. Example: 6 ml of Metricide is approximately equal to 10 ml of Excel). Metricide is GLUT just like excel. Hope this helps.

EDIT: Metricide comes with an activator bottle attached...throw that away!

 

[AJ_117]

Hey, I fully understand. If you are on a budget check out Aquatraders for Green Element/ Beamswork LED lights. (Make sure that it is for Freshwater 6500K or 7000K). Also go to Amazon and buy a gallon of Metricide 14. A gallon of Metricide costs about the same as a liter of Excel, plus you only need about half. Example: 6 ml of Metricide is approximately equal to 10 ml of Excel). Metricide is GLUT just like excel. Hope this helps.

EDIT: Metricide comes with an activator bottle attached...throw that away!

Ill be sure to check those out, and thank you very much. All of these websites I've seen have been telling all different stuff, and some of it made it seem harder than setting up a reef tank haha.

As a ballpark estimate, what kind of plants will I be able to grow with that setup, and can I get a carpeting effect with the repens I have in the tank? I understand that more reddish/purple plants need higher light so idk if those would be viable (sorry for the long winded questions btw!)

 

[dcutl002]

Is it true though, if I use high light without CO2 I'll have terrible algae breakouts?

I'll explain this as my limited understanding allows: look into EI dosing. A guy named Tom Barr came up with this I think. Anyway, Tom has proven that excess nutrients does not cause algae. Algae is caused by an imbalance in the triangle of light, nutrients, and CO2. So, if you overdose nutrients and CO2 then the limiting factor is light. Which I guess is good? anyway, If light is the limiting factor Algae is not supposed to be as much of a problem. I am sure someone with more scientific knowledge than myself will chime in...but that is about as good as my small brain gets.

 

[dcutl002]

Ill be sure to check those out, and thank you very much. All of these websites I've seen have been telling all different stuff, and some of it made it seem harder than setting up a reef tank haha.

As a ballpark estimate, what kind of plants will I be able to grow with that setup, and can I get a carpeting effect with the repens I have in the tank? I understand that more reddish/purple plants need higher light so idk if those would be viable (sorry for the long winded questions btw!)

for plants: Excellent List Of Plants For Low Light Tanks - General Aquarium Plants Discussions - Aquatic Plant Central

For a carpet try Staurogyne Repens

Here is a good link for EI Dosing. There are a plethora of links attached, so read on and have fun. http://www.barrreport.com/forum/barr-report/estimative-index

 

[AJ_117]

I'll explain this as my limited understanding allows: look into EI dosing. A guy named Tom Barr came up with this I think. Anyway, Tom has proven that excess nutrients does not cause algae. Algae is caused by an imbalance in the triangle of light, nutrients, and CO2. So, if you overdose nutrients and CO2 then the limiting factor is light. Which I guess is good? anyway, If light is the limiting factor Algae is not supposed to be as much of a problem. I am sure someone with more scientific knowledge than myself will chime in...but that is about as good as my small brain gets.

So by extended logic, if you limit the light hours per day but still have high light algae won't be a problem?

 

[dcutl002]

Right. I think it is more about the intensity/PAR, but the length of the photo period is definitely a factor. Try to shoot for 8-10 hours per day.

From the Barr Report: http://www.barrreport.com/forum/members-only-exclusive-access/algae-control
NOTE: You may have to join to view this

 

[AJ_117]

Right. I think it is more about the intensity/PAR, but the length of the photo period is definitely a factor. Try to shoot for 8-10 hours per day.

From the Barr Report: http://www.barrreport.com/forum/members-only-exclusive-access/algae-control

I think I'll just play my luck and try with the good light. I have a BN pleco if algae pops up anyways [emoji41]

 

[dcutl002]

If you overdose the Metricide, say half a milliter per gallon, a lot of algae will die. i had a bad case of clado Algae and the Metricide killed it.

 

[AJ_117]

If you overdose the Metricide, say half a milliter per gallon, a lot of algae will die. i had a bad case of clado Algae and the Metricide killed it.

Will diatoms be a problem at all? They're the bane of my 10g haha

 

[dcutl002]

Your Pleco should eat that. Nothing will eat Clado Algae.