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Old 05-21-2010, 12:38 AM   #11
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fyi. i'm speaking first hand. i have a 55g with 4 wpg t5ho. bba was one of my first battles. took a while but i beat it.

the 2 of us are at a level that most people do not recommend. even the most of the pros say nay nay. tanks at our level require everything to be PERFECT. any fluctuations in ferts, co2, plant mass or disturbing the substrate too much can throw things WAY out of control.

i absolutely do NOT recommend that you switch to pps with that level of lighting. just like neilan said, it takes a while to dial in. while you're trying to dial in you will make mistakes and the result will not be pretty.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:41 AM   #12
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the best thing you can do is to take care of your co2 levels and increase circulation. there are ways to kill the bba by spot treating with h2o2 or excel and what-not but i would recommend just throwing the affected plants out. you'll have much faster results that way
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:40 PM   #13
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Ok, was out of touch for a day so a late reply.

I guess I should have said that right now I have my lights coming on in two cycles, from 8-12 and 4-8. My CO2 comes on right around 8 am and off at 8 PM. I have a tube going from my CO2 to a power head in the tank...

I do my water changes late evening on Sunday. I work from 8 am until 4:30 and do it after I get home. I'm not going to be able to do a water change in the morning on any day though, even if I change days.
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Old 05-23-2010, 05:46 PM   #14
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After a week of the fert schedule my tests are as follows:

Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 10-20
PH: 7
Phosphate was I think off the chart which goes to 10, I would guess around a 12 looking at the others...

I didn't do the hardness.

So, I'm not sure how to proceed. Too much phosphate? I did buy a bottle of excel. Pulling out all infected plants at this point would leave me with an empty tank so that really isn't going to happen. I'll try spot treating and treating all the water. I don't think I can up the flow of the tank any more than it already is (have a Fluval 405 on there now plus the power head for the CO2).

The only think I've ever seen that helped with the BBA was constant dosing of Excel. That tends to get expensive... but I'm really tired of having it and really don't know what to do.

Edit: I am willing to drop some of the lighting to help, but still want to make sure I have enough for the plants I have now. I think the ones needing the most light are the grass and baby tears.
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Old 05-23-2010, 06:04 PM   #15
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Kill it with fire, or H2O2. It will not only kill your algae but also oxygenate the water as H2O2 decomposes overtime into H2O and O2. Fill a syringe with 3% or 5% H2O2 solution which you can get at any pharmacy and spray it directly over the Algae. It will die in hours.

Careful though, I'm not to sure the effects of rapid oxidation on vascular plants. The reason algae is so vulnerable is because it's not a vascular plant. It absorbs everything in the water. The O2 rapidly oxidizes its cells, killing it on contact. The stuff has been used effectively before, with no adverse effects but try to keep at 5% H2O2 max. Use a siphon to take out any dead algae.

Secondly, always keep your CO2 on, even if it builds up it won't be enough in 12 hours to do any damage. Your fluctuating CO2 levels are helping the algae.
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Old 05-23-2010, 07:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crepe View Post
Kill it with fire, or H2O2. Secondly, always keep your CO2 on, even if it builds up it won't be enough in 12 hours to do any damage. Your fluctuating CO2 levels are helping the algae.
Is there a common name for H2O2?

If the CO2 is supposed to be on 24/7 is there a reason so many sell the electronic solenoids?
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Old 05-23-2010, 08:04 PM   #17
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It's myth that you should turn off the CO2 at night. 12 hours of plant respiration won't be damaging and keeping the CO2 on won't affect the water chemistry as much as it will turning it off as the rate of CO2 diffusion into the atmosphere is much much greater than it is into the water.
Electric solenoids are sold because it helps conserve CO2 in very high concentration tanks (above 30ppm) where it becomes very easy to overdo the CO2 at night.. If your CO2 stays around 20-30 ppm you shouldn't worry about shutting it off at night.

H2O2 is hydrogen peroxide, the kind that you put on your cuts and scrapes and fizzes when you do.
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:45 AM   #18
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Well, I'm happy to report that after several months I think I've finally conquered the dreaded BBA. I've been fighting this beast for 2 years now (at least it seems like that long). I still have some but it is all turning red and dying out.

I believe the biggest thing is what Crepe said and made the largest contribution-I started leaving my CO2 on all the time (so much for that 120 on an electric solenoid). I did spot treat (and still do) the H2O2 but I've been so sparatic with that I don't think it did the job.

So, I'm very happy! Hopefully will have a really clean tank soon!
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