New Tank ordered! What Now? :)

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MyMonkey

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Jul 22, 2005
Messages
123
Location
Oklahoma
Well folks, I pulled the trigger on a 72 Gallon Fluval Profile 1000 the other day and I am feverishly awaiting its' arrival! :) I have been looking into starting a new tank in my home office for some time now and the search into a custom tank left me less than pleased with the process. :mad: So, the wife and I both like the look of the Profile series so I ordered it. I Wanted a tank a bit longer but I figure this will suffice to start things off.

SteelProfileAquarium.gif

Stainless Steel Fluval 1000 Profile Aquarium

My rough idea of planning is in the list below.
Substrate: Eco Complete (Black) and a curving river of sand up the middle.
River Rocks and one large piece of driftwood also.
I had planned on a low tech approach, or possible mid tech as I don't mind additives but do want nice plants. I would like to avoid CO2 if possible. Unless it is a must have.
My research has stumped me on plant selection. I am struggling with the broad range available and would like a bit of guidance there as well as fish choices. The idea of a community tank sounds peaceful, maybe platys etc but is that overdone these days?

The other item is the plumbing. I have plumbed into the wall behind the tank a drain line and a water line. (Will supply pic soon) I am not sure how to incorporate that into the tank though. I would like to set up an auto WC and auto TO there but am not sure of what plumbing items I would use tom accomplish that? Anyone have info on those?

I may be rambling but am very excited! :)

Also, should I upgrade the filtration or just run with the Fluval 305?
 
Wow that's gonna be a nice tank and I'm sure being that it's a large Fluval tank, it must have cost a pretty penny. I know you stated you want to avoid co2, but since you stated it's not out of the question, i think a tank like that could have amazing potential if you incorporate co2 injection. Of course that also depends on the lighting. You already have a nice plant substrate.. Honestly, a decent co2 system wouldn't cost you that much now a days. It would break you out of the chains of being limited to low light plants. Moderate to high light plants mixed with some low light tolerate plants would allow for a broad range of foreground, mid-ground, and tall background plants; not to mention, the ability to grow red plants that contrast nicely with green.

As for the filter, do you already have the 305? I think that's under powered for a tank that size. You should at least get the 406. Or if you have a 305, you can get a second one and run two canisters.

As for Fauna, I'd go with some Angels with schools of dither fish and some ground dwellers like Cory cats.
 
Thanks Brian. Good info there. I will take a second look at the CO2 systems. I had looked before and the cost was not that great as far as I recall. I guess it is just new to me as I have no experience with it. :ermm:
 
sounds good from what he said i would run a 406 to but its all up to you in your budget aswell for the co2 it would help you out alot with growth ect and the lighting im not sure what it is so that is another factor aswell but i would put angels cory cats neons possibly i like discus but i know they perfer higher temp so good luck with your new fish tank
 
With the help of a drop checker, you can visually see a good approximation of the co2 levels saturated in your water column. I can further assist you if you're interested in taking the plunge. Check out my 12g tank in my signature. You can see the difference of what the combination of co2, lighting, ferts, and substrate can do. With a high tech co2 system, all you have to do is dial in the bubble rate (seen through the bubble counter) the amount of co2 you're injecting. My 12g is uncontrollable co2 injection because it's a DIY CO2 (which works in nano tanks). However, my 6g is high tech and I'm using a pressurized system, which is very easy to use (kinda like "set it and forget it"). Although I don't have direct experience with a high tech planted tank your size, I've done it successfully on a smaller scale and i have done research on a larger scale because I'm planning on a larger tank in the near future.

Anyway, with respect to a pressurized co2 system, i have created a nice budget friendly shopping list with "quality" equipment that could help in your application. Instead of me re-typing it, check out this other thread i was active in...
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=192837

Maybe just one alteration i would do, however, from what i recommended in that other thread is to possibly get a different co2 diffuser. Being that your tank is larger, you can either get one of those powered atomizer diffusers to help disperse the co2 better OR you can get a splitter on the regulator to run two lines on opposite ends to run two ceramic disk diffusers. Perhaps someone with more knowledge on larger tanks and co2 applications can chime in? But i believe my suggestion sounds logical. Another option is to get an inline diffuser that you put in the hosing of your canister filter. I've read the co2 diffusion is close to 100% that way.

Anyway, what's your lighting on this new tank anyway? BTW, I'm really jealous because i want your tank! Haha
 
Lighting as included is 4x39 watt T5's. I Plan on add some Mylar and moonlights in the hood to help with reflection. I had not thought of the filtration as limited but I suppose I can swap out the filter for the 406 easily. The 305 comes with the tank but I can likely just sell that. Thanks again.
 
Yeah that's excellent lighting... I would definitely run co2 which can also help in reducing algae with that amount of light.. So you know how tall your tank is going to be? Distance from light source to substrate is important to take in to consideration as well.
 
It is a tall tank at 25 inches in height. :ermm: I assume that will be ok so long as I avoid high light carpets? I look forward to filling in all that height with swords and other tall plants!

On the filter. Is it better to run one large filter or two smaller ones?
 
Gosh I'm not sure if I'm reading this source I use on lighting correctly, but with 25" in height minus a few inches in substrate, that would give you very high light, assuming the reflectors on the T5HO's are very good... If I'm reading it correctly? The PAR looks close to being 200, which 'I think' is meant for marine tanks... You would have to either raise the lighting to increase distance, remove a bulb or two, or add a screen, or dim the light somehow for a planted FW tank... I hope someone can clarify that.

Here's the source: PAR vs Distance, T5, T12, PC - New Chart,

For filtration, I think you can run two canisters, the 305 and another Fluval (I'd get the newer 306 though). Or just the 406 since it's rated up to 100g, sell the 305, and add a powerhead on the other end for better circulation. Either would work I believe.

I hate to sound like a broken record, but with your high lighting, co2 will be needed. And you can do a wide range of plants, carpeting ones too (i.e. DHG, UG, and/or HC) IMO.

Lastly, for inspirational purposes... when I see your tank and it's potential, I think these examples would look nice (not my tanks btw):
img_2170992_0_f30a8dd2fcd525039a6843df1a137a63.jpg

img_2170992_1_0de62b565714413712eb1f203c0717ca.jpg


Here's a tank at my LFS that the guys there just re-scaped and planted... I'm only adding it here because you mentioned a curving river of sand in the middle.. which I think would look awesome.
img_2170992_2_8fb822be185d0f84874ab7504458a4b0.jpg
 
WOOHOO! It's here! It's heavy too! I have ordered several other items such as some eco complete etc. However, in the interim I am struggling with how to plumb the drain line for my easy water change setup? It is a standard 2 inch pvc pipe there. I was able to find black vinyl tubing that I believe will connect to the water line and I can attach semi permanently to the tank to make adding water easy but I am not sure what to do with the drain.

One idea is to make use of the Python cleaner but I fear it is designed to run over a sink and may leak. Next, I though of just having the drain run into the stand and remove the cap when I want to drain water and stuff a line from the syphon down there. No idea though what's best. Any thoughts?

img_2179799_0_1353a1ea741067ba7cc9b9c80a11070e.jpg
 
The easiest way to go would be to use a normal gravel vac and syphon directly into the drain. For top off you could get PVC fittings and either make a hard pipe connection going above the top of the tank (not what I would do) or use a flexible hose connected to the spigot with adapters and a clamped barbed fitting. that would let you add water with less splashing which is an electrical hazard. Either way you'll want a ball valve to let you control the flow at the tank unless you have easy hand access at the main valve.
 
The easiest way to go would be to use a normal gravel vac and syphon directly into the drain. For top off you could get PVC fittings and either make a hard pipe connection going above the top of the tank (not what I would do) or use a flexible hose connected to the spigot with adapters and a clamped barbed fitting. that would let you add water with less splashing which is an electrical hazard. Either way you'll want a ball valve to let you control the flow at the tank unless you have easy hand access at the main valve.


Essentially I have done just that for the inlet/topoff water. I have attached a braided hose with 1/2 inch female end that attaches to a reducer and a black vynil tube that will be attached to the tank for the purpose of adding water etc. The drain line was a puzzle but after some consideration I added a P trap to keep gases in check and not have to remove the cap. I have reduced the 2 inch pipe to 1 1/4 so that the clear tube from the syphon will tie directly in there and can remain under the cabinet until used.

img_2180308_0_bee7a3fe94a4f02274123b8886072601.jpg
 
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