Please help; anubia leaves turning brown/black

[malonbl]

New tank (50 days old). Low light tank (T8 fluorescent) with a 8 hour photoperiod. Purchased various anubia species (3 nanas , 1 coffefolia, 3 frazerii), java moss and 3 small java fern that I planted in a single bunch. All of these were purchased from an online source that was recommended on this forum. Plants looked great upon arrival 1 week ago.

Put plants in the tank 1 week ago. Either tied to driftwood or planted just the roots (didn't cover rhizome). Have dosed once with flourish comprehensive. No plans at this time to dose CO2, although I have considered metricide 14 (and can if needed).

This pictured leaf was near the piece of fishing line I used to tie to the DW. I hoped that maybe I had just damaged the stem with the tie. However, I am starting to see some similar darkening at the tips of other leaves of this same anubia frazerii. All the other plants look really good at this time. Water testing well at 0 ammonia and nitrites and 5 ppm of nitrates.

Only other issue is some beard algae that I have only noticed on the driftwood.

Should I be concerned?

 

[malonbl]

thought I would also show the presumed BBA to be sure that I have accurately identified it

edit: I have now been told that this may just be a driftwood fungus that should self resolve

 

[smithpants94]

Are the leaves and stems flimsy at all? Do they seem or feel broken?

 

[Rivercats]

The leaves appear to have a nutrient deficiency. Nitrate or phosphate deficiency which are both similar in appearance. What are your nitrate and phosphate reading? Also cut off all of the damaged leaves so the plant doesn't waste energy on them.

 

[malonbl]

no they don't feel flimsy, although I cannot say I truly observed for that before tossing this leaf in the trash.

My nitrates are at 5 ppm. My phosphate test kit is in the mail; I ordered it because I have seen this asked of others who have had plant problems. I will have it in by Tuesday or so and will test.

The other leaves showing brown spots are very large leaves and 99% of the leaf look very healthy with only a mm or so of darkness at the very tip. I shouldn't cut these away should I?

By the way, do you all agree that the driftwood growth (only on driftwood) is likely just a fungus that will go away in time?

 

[Rivercats]

It looks like a fungus and you can let it go away on it's own or give it a spot treatment with Hydrogen peroxide 3%.

You can leave the leaves that only have slight browning but it they continue to brown more then I would cut them off. The great thing about Anubia's are that you can cut off every leaf, leaving only the rhizome, and new leaves will grow. I've actually had to do that a couple times. You want your nitrate levels at 10-20ppm and phosphates at 1-3ppm.

 

[malonbl]

I am a rookie so bear with me please.

Nitrates at 10-20 ppm won't stress the fish? I know that water changes are primarily to decrease nitrates in a mature tank

Also, to increase nitrates, I presume one could do less water changes. Or is there a fertilizer that has nitrates in it that you recommend? I have flourish comprehensive that I am using, but I am not home to check the bottle. By the way, I have only dosed once since I planted 1 week ago.

Also, similarly with phosphate, I presume there is an appropriate fertilizer to bring the phosphates up? Flourish comprehensive?

Thanks for the info thus far.

 

[Rivercats]

Doing water changes are for keeping many different types of toxins from building up in the water. Many people believe if they have low nitrates they don't need to do big or very many water changes. This is a post made by AquaChem a while back about toxins and water changes...

"How confident are you that nitrogenous waste, phosphates, and GH / KH are the only thing that builds up? Don't make the mistake of confusing undetectable/unmeasureable with not there.

Fish don't just excrete ammonia. They excrete many, many organic molecules (metabolites, proteins, etc) that could potentially be toxic. These compounds could have a number of potentially hazardous effects on a tank, such as (and completely made up on the spot): noxious to fish gills, bioaccumulation, or fueling dangerous (or unsightly) heterotrophic bacteria or algae species like cyanobacteria."

People who run high tech heavily planted tanks, like I do use dry macro and micro ferts and often keep nitrates and phosphates at high levels. In the case of planted tanks you have to have a balance for both plants and fish. As long as nitrates are no higher than 20ppm (except for some very sensitive fish) those are acceptable levels for plants and livestock. I've run phosphates over 10ppm in high tech tanks with tons of non-green plants and fish thrive. I do 50% WC's in all my tanks weekly, even my 220g and keep nutrient levels where they should be and many of my fish even spawn.

I would try dosing the Flourish Comprehensive 2x weekly at the recommended dose and see if new growth stays green without developing any browning issues. If needed then down the road you can get other Seachem products to increase nitrates and or phosphates if needed.

 

[malonbl]

Great. Thanks again. Can I ask about dosing carbon in this low-light tank. I have seen mixed opinions. I am not apposed to acquiring and dosing metricide 14 daily, but I don't want to do it unless there is a benefit. And I certainly don't want to introduce any unnecessary harm.

Another question. I know fish waste and food are a source of nitrates. Are they also a source of phosphates? And if so, I plan to increase my fish stock soon, so I guess that could help increase my nitrate (and possibly phosphate) levels?

 

[mapexmac007]

I'm so new to all of this — I fear I did bury my rhizome. I will cut-away the three-four unhealthy leaves, and brush-away the gravel that covers the rhizome.

I am hopeful having this one anubia will help keep nitrites and phosphates in check. I'll be adding two more plants in a week or so. These seem to be the only plants which can co-exist with 4-inch goldfish*— who of course like to nibble on plants.

 

[Rivercats]

Great. Thanks again. Can I ask about dosing carbon in this low-light tank. I have seen mixed opinions. I am not apposed to acquiring and dosing metricide 14 daily, but I don't want to do it unless there is a benefit. And I certainly don't want to introduce any unnecessary harm.

Another question. I know fish waste and food are a source of nitrates. Are they also a source of phosphates? And if so, I plan to increase my fish stock soon, so I guess that could help increase my nitrate (and possibly phosphate) levels?

I use Metricide 14 in all my low light tanks as I find it helps utilize what available light there is. I have both used and not used it in low light tanks and in the low light tanks where I use it I have found I get better growth. I have also found running lighting from 8 to 10 hours also helps in low light tanks. As long as you don't get algae you can run lights longer.

Some fish foods release phosphates but it's not a good idea to increase feeding just for that. Plus only some flake foods do this. Also while a higher bio-load will result in more nitrates I don't suggest getting more fish just to produce more waste to increase nitrates.

 

[malonbl]

Thanks again for the info. My fish additions are independent of the plant concerns. Right now, I have 12 neons and 9 habrosus corys. I've got a good bit more capacity per aqadvisor. Plan to add a couple more small schools of nano size fish. Probably 8 ember or jelly bean tetras and 8 mosquito or green rasboras.

So, here is my plan:
1) I will increase my light from 8 hours daily to 8.5 and give that a few weeks to affect change. If no algae, I will work it up more.

2) I will add metricide 14 daily dosing. I believe I have seen 1/2 ml per two gallons, correct? Also, while my tank is 29 gallons, with the gravel, rocks, DW, etc, it probably only holds 25 gallons, so I will use that as my dosing volume.

3) I will keep doing 50% weekly water changes

4) dose flourish comprehensive twice weekly.

Please let me know if all this sounds appropriate. I really appreciate the info.

Oh, and I will update this thread with the phosphate levels once my test kit comes in.

Here is a picture of my tank just FYI

 

[Rivercats]

Yes that is correct BUT I would suggest starting with a lower dose of Metricide 14 with the cory's you have. Start by using 1ml of Metricide 14 (diluted) to every 5 gallons of water for 2 weeks. Then up to 1ml for every 3 gallons for a couple weeks and then up it to 1ml for every 2g. If your using the Metricide 14 straight from the bottle then use half the amount I listed. With some fish and shrimp I prefer to build up my Glut levels slowly.

 

[malonbl]

Thank you, Rivercats. I didn't receive my phosphate kit today as I thought I would. I will update this thread (hopefully tomorrow night) as I receive it. I will also give an updated picture of the anubia leaf that I am watching.

Thanks for continuing to watch this thread.

 

[malonbl]

Rivercats, just as a reminder, you were considering that I might have a nutrient deficiency (nitrates or phosphates) based on the browned leaf shown in the original post.

I received my phosphate test kit today, so now I can provide full details of my water parameters, although I am sure this is more than you need.

ammonia - 0
nitrite - 0
nitrate - 5 ppm
phosphate - 0 ppm
dKH - 5
dGH - 7
pH 7.8

These numbers are 3.5 days after a 50% water change, which I am performing weekly.

The plants have been in for 13 days. In general, they continue to look very good (in my uneducated opinion). One nana rolled out a new leaf today. I am including a picture of the anubia frazeri with the affected tip. It was initially browned, but now that area has sort of "melted away" only leaving "threads" of material. I have also included a picture from farther back to show the general health of the plant.

I presume you will tell me to get my phosphate and nitrates up. Please advise on the best way to do this.

By the way, I have still not had an opportunity to purchase a carbon additive. So, these plants have only received micro ferts from flourish comprehensive, carbon from mulm breakdown and 8 hours of T8 light daily.

 

[Rivercats]

Ideally in a planted tank you want to shoot for 10-20ppm of nitrates and 1-3ppm of phosphates. If you want to keep using liquid ferts Seachem makes Flouish Nitrogen and Flourish Phosphate for raising these levels. Honestly in the long run it is much cheaper to buy and use dry ferts.

 

[malonbl]

Thanks, Rivercats. As a result of this thread and your suspicion of a nutrient deficiency, I have read up a bit on macro ferts using dry products. Obviously, nitrates and phosphates are measurable and dosing can be titrated to fit. Is Potassium measurable or do we just estimate the dose?

Also, when using KNO3 (nitrate), K2SO4/KCl (potassium), and KH2PO4 (phosphate), where do you acquire these and are they dosed dry into the water column?

Also, when measuring for target levels (N 10-20, P 1-3, K ?), do you measure this before a weekly water change or after as I am sure that the levels will differ? Or maybe you want to be "in range" throughout the week.

 

[Rivercats]

I use these ferts.... Estimative Index | Aquarium Fertilizer | Green Leaf Aquariums.


I also suggest 3 of these dosing bottles... Fertilizer Dispenser | 1000 mL (32 oz) | Green Leaf Aquariums


Read this thread about dosing PPS-Pro but only read the opening post and not all the comment posts... Newbie Guide to PPS-Pro - PPS Analysis and Feedback - Aquatic Plant Central.


There are two things I do differently than the thread is that I split my macro nutrients up using one dosing bottle for nitrates, and one dosing bottle for phosphates and potassium. This allows me for better custom dosing to the needs of my tank. I shoot for 10-20ppm of nitrate and 1-5ppm phosphates. The thread also has MgSO4, magnesium sulfate in the macro mix. If your tanks Gh is 4 or over then your tap water has enough magnesium in it that supplementing it is not needed.

I rarely have to dose nitrates as my tanks tend to run about 10ppm nitrates with 50% weekly WC's. Potassium and phosphates are mixed together and potassium isn't tested for. Potassium deficiency presents itself as pin holes in leaves that enlarge over time. I've never had potassium problems when dosing with dry ferts.

I take nitrate and phosphate reading right before doing my weekly WC to see where my levels are. Then I can decide if my dosing is on target or if I need to use more of less of the nitrate and phosphate/potassium mixes. You always dose the micro mix the same. You want to shoot for 10-20ppm nitrates and 1-5ppm phosphates. I keep a ton of non-green plants in my tanks so I like to run nitrates at 10ppm and phosphates at 5ppm.

 

[malonbl]

Extremely helpful.

So, could you share your recipe since you split the nitrates from the potassium/phospate mix? As in "x grams KNO3 per unit of distilled water" and "x grams of KPO4 + x grams of K2SO4 per unit of distilled water". I will not need the MgSO4 (dGH of 7)

Do you have to treat distilled water with Prime?

I couldn't determine if this is daily or weekly dosing?

 

[Rivercats]

Macro Solution

In 1 liter bottle: (1000ml)
59 grams K2SO4 (Potassium Sulfate)
6 grams KH2PO4 (Mono Potassium Phosphate)
Fill with distilled water and shake well. Let sit overnight.

In 1 liter bottle:
65 grams KNO3 (Potassium Nitrate)
Fill with distilled water and shake well. Let sit overnight.

Micro Solution

In 1 liter bottle:
80 grams of CSM+B or equivalent trace element mix
Fill with distilled water and shake well. Let sit overnight

I also add 5ml of liquid carbon for every 250ml of solution in each bottle. I often double this in the micro solution. Also I've found I prefer using the 500ml dosing bottles sold on that site. I like having fresher solution and using it up faster.

You dose 1ml of each solution for every 10g of water daily before lights go on. Since I like to keep my nitrate and phosphate at certain levels I do a nitrate and phosphate reading right before each water change. That shows me if I'm dosing right, too much, or too little of nitrates and or phosphates. My tanks run at about 10ppm nitrates so I rarely ever dose them. Then I like higher phosphates due to the amount of non-green plants I grow so I usually have to double dose phosphates each week. Dosing PPS-Pro allows you to custom dose your tank to the needs of the tank. After a few weeks you'll see how you tank runs and the dosing levels it will normally use. In planted tanks you normally want to shoot for 10-20ppm nitrates and 1-5ppm phosphates.

You do not need to Prime the distilled water, just use it straight from the bottle. You can also use RO water.