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Old 11-07-2006, 07:02 PM   #21
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Quote:
on a 55 gal tank running only during the day and medium to heavly planted. I would say 6-8 months for a 7 pound tank.
Excellent! Now lets hope that it is the right cylinder. James is still at work so hopefully he can call tomorrow. It's a long way to drive just for it to be the wrong one.
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Old 11-07-2006, 07:08 PM   #22
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A 44 oz would still last quite awhile. 2 to 3 months. thats not bad either.
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:36 AM   #23
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Any suggestions on the test kit that I asked about?
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:47 AM   #24
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I take it that my little AP Master Test Kit is not going to suffice any longer?

that will work just fine.

when you get all your hardware in, the only testing that needs to be monitored will be KH and pH to monitor your CO2 levels as you start to inject.

With the EI method you really don't need to monitor all the other stuff. some do, some don't. I did and now I don't. Those would be NO3's and PO4's.

There is one more piece to the puzzle of your tank is that is the fertilizers and the schedule for adding them. We will cover this when you are ready. Have you ordered the fertilizers?

Oh and one more thing, you will need timers. one for your light fixture and one to run the solenoid valve and CO2 reactor. (and one more if you plan on running your air stone at night)

HTH
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Old 11-08-2006, 09:16 AM   #25
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I didn't know if I need all of those extra tests like Calcium and whatnot. I remember seeing a big test kit for planted tanks quite a while ago. It had tons of tests. I just checked Big Al's and didn't see it on their site anymore, but I could have overlooked it. That's great that I won't have to buy yet another item.

I haven't ordered the ferts yet since I need to wait a few weeks until our checking account refills. The light strip and misc other items from Big Al's combined with the new living room furnature kind of put a dent in the account. I don't plan on using the strip until I have all of the components though. So until the ferts are in my posession, I won't be using the strip.

I have two timers right now for my two 24" light strips. The new strip will only need one timer so that leaves me with one more.

If I don't have to run the air stone, I would rather not. It is kind of a pain in the rear. It bubbles water up and forms algae on my glass hoods. Every few weeks I have to scrape off the algae that has formed because it starts to block the light from coming through. So as long as I am fine without it, I'd rather keep it that way. We only have two on our 150 because a few of our Africans like to play in the bubbles. So far none of my community fish have taken part of the activity.

Thanks again, you have been a tremendous help. I greatly appreciate it.
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Old 11-08-2006, 09:26 AM   #26
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BTW fishyfanatic, how is your tap watar? soft, hard? do you know the GH and KH?

ok they me get the fertilizers out of the way. I don't recall if anybody has listed them or not. but any how:

get them here: http://www.gregwatson.com/DryAquaticFertilizers.asp

get these ones:

Plantex CSM+B
Potassium Nitrate KN03
Monopotassium Phosphate KH2PO4
Potassium Sulphate K2S04
(EDIT: you may have to get the GH booster depending on your tap water)
1 lb of each.

also get (2) 8 oz twin neck bottles. (this will make life 10 times easier, trust me).

I paid less then 35 bucks shipped.
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Old 11-08-2006, 10:12 AM   #27
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You probably saw the Hagen Nutrafin Master Test Kit. It has all the test kits that you could possibly need for a FW Planted tank, plus several like the iron and calcium that aren't sensitive enough to be useful. Since you've already got the AP Master Test Kit the most you would want to do is pick up the extra test kits that yours didn't come with. This is usually KH and PO4. Seachem is the recommended kit for PO4, and I believe the AP would be fine for the KH. You should already have the NO3 and PH test kits, which are the other main ones that are recommended for FW Planted tanks.
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Old 11-08-2006, 11:40 AM   #28
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I had some time to put together the dosing schedule, granted this is subject to change based on your fish loading and what not, but this will give you some idea as to what to expect. (I also included a .txt file so you can download it a print it out if you would like)

(information condensed to be more specific to a 55 gal tank, this information can be obtained here:

http://www.barrreport.com/articles/1...ive-index.html )

EI "light" for the less techical aspects of the Estimative index - 04-12-2006, 07:49 PM

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Overview
The Estimative Index (EI) is a straightforward method for providing nutrients for a planted tank. The idea behind EI is simply

introducing an excess amount of nutrients within an aquarium, throughout the week. This excess of nutrients floods the water column

and feeds the plants. This is an estimative method; measuring specific nutrient uptake rates is not necessary and no test kits are

involved. EI provides a surplus of nutrients that helps to prevents plant deficiencies, and allows plant growth unhendered. Most algae

releated issues are due to plant deficiencies rather than excess nutrient levels(Ammonium/NH4 + is the exception).

Basically you add a slight excess of nutrients to prevent anything from running out, then do a large water change at the end of the

week to prevent anything from building up. This allows you to maintain a range of nutrients without ever using a test kit.

The water change generally takes about the same amount of time once you haul out the hoses etc do the water change so the time

and work difference between a 25 % and 50% water change is fairly small.

The process of which this is done is simple. Each day (or 2-3x a week, weekly for low light tanks) fertilizers are dosed, and the

nutrients are absorbed by the plants. With this method being estimative, we can dose fertilizers according to general guidelines suited

for our particular setup (see below for regime). At the end of the week, one performs a 50% water change to Ďresetí the nutrient load in

the entire system. And then the entire dosing regime is repeated. The hobbyists can do larger(which will afford more accuracy) or

smaller water change routines, but 50% is just guide line.

The primary fertilizers are the macro nutrients - Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P), Potassium (K), and the micro nutrients Ė trace

elements (Plantex CSM+B, Flourish, Tropica Master Grow-TMG). Iron (Fe) can also be supplemented if necessary.

The Estimative Index method works best for a high light and well planted aquarium. However it is not limited to higher light setups,

smaller quantities of fertilizers can be dosed if low light is used. Also, the frequency may be reduced to 1-2x a week at low

light(1.5-2w/gal).

General Dosing Guideline for High Light and well planted aquariums.

40-60 Gallon Aquariums
+/- 1/2 tsp KN03 3x a week
+/- 1/8 tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/- 1/8 tsp K2S04 3x a week
+/- 1/8 (10ml) Trace Elements 3x a week
50% weekly water change

Example Dosing Regime for 29 Gallon:
See attached file.

EI target ranges
CO2 range 20-30 ppm
NO3 range 5-30 ppm
K+ range 10-30 ppm
PO4 range 1.0-2.0 ppm
Fe 0.2-0.5ppm or higher
GH range 3-5 degrees ~ 50ppm or higher
KH range 3-5

See dosing calculators for additional dosing guides for Fe, etc.

Where to buy fertilizers?
www.gregwatson.com can provide you with the necessary chemicals for dry and liquid dosing of the above. For micro - trace

elements, Plantex CSM+B, Seachem Flourish, and Tropica Master Grow (TMG) are equivalent to each other. www.bigalsonline.com

for the Seachem and TMG brands.

1 lb of each for Greg Watson Chemicals will last at least 1 year:

Plantex CSM+B
Potassium Nitrate KN03
Monopotassium Phosphate KH2PO4
Potassium Sulfate K2S04

Special Notes:

Providing optimal CO2 levels of at least 30 ppm are necessary for plants to prosper. If algae issue arise, remove all visible algae and

infected leaves. Recheck CO2 levels, and possibly reduce and adjust the lighting period.

Direct dry dosing into the tank is perfectly fine. Many dose straight into, or they dissolve each daily amounts in water before adding.

Plantex CSM+B is often mixed into solution for liquid dosing. 1 tablespoon to 250ml water is equivalent to: 20 ml = 1/4 teaspoon of dry

Plantex. This solution is stored in refrigerators to prevent mold from forming within the container. HCL can be added to prevent the

mold.

Small dosing teaspoons (smidgen, dash, pinch) can be found at Linen & Things, Bed Bath and Beyond, Wal-Mart, dollar stores, eBay

and other online retailers. To identify the specific measurements of your smidgen, dash, pinch set, a 1/8 tsp should fill a ľ tsp in 2

tries, 1/16 tsp in 4 tries, and a 1/32 tsp in 8 tries.


Sticking to a good dosing regime will make your plants flourish, and keep you delighted! If you seek more in depth discussion about EI,

there are two other articles here.

John N and Tom Barr
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Additional info added for Fishyfanatic:

I would mix 1 TBSP of Monopotassium Phosphate KH2PO4 and 1 TBSP Potassium Sulfate K2S04 into 125 mls of luke warm water

(one of those 4 oz twin neck bottles), This will be dosed Sunday, Tuesday, Thusday at a rate of 5mls (Halfway between the bottom and the 1/4 oz line on the top bottle, you may want to calibrate this with a childrens cough syrup measurer ect..)

and you will also add Potassium Nitrate KN03 dry or mixed with aquarium water at a rate of 1/2 tsp on those same days depending on
your fish loading. (make sure you use level tsp and TBSP measurements)

The CSM+B Plantex will be mixed (1 TBSP) with the other 125 ml 4 oz twin neck bottle, but this one should be stored in your refrigerator, due to

it sometimes becoming moldy, (again, use luke warm water, this helps to dissolve the chemical, but doesn't throw off the volume of

water to far). This will be dosed on opposite days of the other fertilizers. Monday, Wensday, Friday. You will dose this at a rate of 5

mls also (Halfway between the bottom and the 1/4 oz line on the top bottle). Saturday you take pictures and place them in the Planted Aquascaping Forum! and Sunday you

will perform a 50% PWC and the cycle starts all over again.

PS. don't forget that after the PWC is when the cycle starts agian. ie you have to dose your macro's right after.

HTH.

here is the file:

http://home.neo.rr.com/rkilling1/ima...shyfanatic.txt

EDIT: corrected some missed spellings
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Old 11-08-2006, 11:47 AM   #29
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Tap is liquid rock.

GH is 393.8 ppm
KH is 358 ppm

I have the AP Phosphate kit already, but I'll look into the Seachem kit. I think you are correct, the one I was was the Hagen kit.

I'll read the text this evening when I have a chance. Thank you soooo much!
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Old 11-08-2006, 11:49 AM   #30
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Then you are all set. just get the CO2 and ferts. well and of corse any and all the plants you want.
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