Pressurized CO2

[SparKy697]

Here are some options-


http://cgi.ebay.com/Milwaukee-SMS122...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/SMART-SMS122-pH-...QQcmdZViewItem

[theotheragentm]

So that first one is everything you need, less the tank and a way to get the CO2 into your tank, yes?

[smn723]

Well almost. You also need either a diffuser or a reactor to dissolve the co2 bubbles. Like these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Spio-III-Co2-dif...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Aqua-Medic-React...QQcmdZViewItem

I wouldn't necessarily recommed that first diffuser but you get the idea. A glass diffuser is what you would be looking for. If you decide to get a reactor there are many plans online for DIY reactors. Probably some on this forum. I don't believe you need a check valve if you use the needle valve, correct?

[7Enigma]

A check valve is ALWAYS recommended, regardless of the setup. The last thing you want is a syphon and all your water on the floor if something bad happens. Their cheap, and easy to install. I just wouldn't chance it. Think of it like wearing your seltbelt in the car.

An inexpensive and very effective reactor is a low flow powerhead (PH) that has been plumbed with the CO2 tubing. I have mine setup with an airstone so it breaks the bubbles up before going through the PH and its completely silent.

I have the complete setup from Rex Grigg, and couldn't be happier. The solenoid does run quite hot, but its normal (I was the one who posted because I was afraid something was wrong). I have the solenoid, tank lights, and PH set to turn on and off together. So the CO2 is only on for ~9 hours a day, which saves tremendously compared to tanks that just run CO2 24/7.

My setup was about $160 shipped for the regulator, ~$90 for the 5lb tank filled, and ~$20 for the PH, airstone, and tubing. But it was well worth the consistency and constant second-guessing of whether it was the CO2 causing the algae problems or something else.

HTH