questions about pressurized co2!!

[rachpreach]

OK Im very new to co2. I have a 100 gallon tank right now with a rena filstar xp3 canister filter. I am interested in running pressurized co2 but dont know what to get.
Here is a link off of ebay that i have been looking at:
this one includes a ph controller...im not sure how it works but does it cut off the co2 automatically if the ph changes?? Is this a good deal? Is it everything I need?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7768318998&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1

If that isnt the right route to go then I was looking on the aquatic botanic website at the milwaukee regulator and the power reactor. **click here and then go to co2 equipment http://www.aquabotanic.com/abstore/index.html
It says on the side something about a brass check valve?? what is that and would i need that? also is that reactor on that page going to be good enough for pressurized co2?
Do I need anything else??

please help me!!!

 

[Lonewolfblue]

That is the setup I have. Basically, here's how it works. You put the regulator on the tank. Then you run the CO2 tubing into a diffuser or reactor in the tank, or an inline reactor outside the tank. The solenoid on the regulator will plug into the ph controller. What that does is if you have it set at 6.5, the CO2 will remain on until the ph drops to 6.5, then turn off. As the CO2 outgases a bit, the ph will slowly rise. Then at about 6.7, it will kick back on again, driving it back down to 6.5. there is about a .2 ph fluctuation. When you have everything and ready to set it up, we can walk you through installing the regulator to the tank and turning it on and adjusting the bubble counter. Also, for the bubble counter, it's best to use distilled water so minerals don't build up in it making it harder to see the bubbles.

As for reactors/diffusers, it just depends on what you want. Here's what I have my CO2 running into.
http://cgi.ebay.com/CO2-REACTOR-M-C...oryZ3212QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Works great.

One other note, if you are more heavily planted, then you will want to plug an airstone or bubble wand into a timer so that when the lights go off, the airpump turns on. The plants will use O2 at night, and could cause problems. I had 3 fish die recently due to lack of O2. But you don't need it on during the day as the plants give off O2 when the lights are on.

 

[rachpreach]

so your saying that instead of using the calibration liquid for the bubble counter I should use distilled water? Im kinda confused about the calibration liquid and what its used for...

BTW your info is very informative...Does that ebay deal sound good?

 

[tbonem91]

I used tap water for my bubble counter but my tap is fairly pure - I can understand the mineral buildup and might switch to distilled if need be. just dont use anything that you wouldnt want getting into your tank.

If you are running a passive diffuser (bubble ladder, glass diffuser, etc) then you wont really need any check valves as there will be no source of back pressure... BUT if you use an active diffuser then you'll probably want one. Active meaning that water is being pushed through pvp and bio balls or some other setup.

In my setup, I have a powerhead running water into my DIY bio ball/pvc reactor and the CO2 is injecting into the input line. When the CO2 turns off, there is no longer a pressure source in the airline tubing (but the power head stays running). Without a check valve, I had the water pushing back into the airline, flooding my bubble counter and continuing to push back until the pressure equalized - this caused some issues when the CO2 turned back on.

I currently have a check valve right before the reactor so water cannot push back into the bubble counter BUT now the CO2 in the airline needs to build up enough pressure itself to push through the check valve. This causes a new problem where when it turns off, the excess pressure in the top of the bubble counter pushes all of the water out of it and into the excess airline running to my CO2 tank. When the CO2 switches back on, the pressure has to push all the water back up into the bubble counter before entering the tank - it seems to take 5 or 6 minutes and is working fine although I am going to get a second check valve to stop this from happening.

It does take a while to set up and figure out but once its all working, you'll be pleased. I, myself, dont have a ph controller but might invest in one in the near future...


edit: I dont know what calibration fluid is nor can I comment on the ebay deal cause Icant access it from here

 

[rachpreach]

can i use a paint ball co2 cylinder with this pressurized system?

 

[Purrbox]

You would need to use an adaptor since the paintball cylinders are threaded differently, or use a regulator specifically made for it (there aren't many manufacturers making these at this time). You'll probably find it much more cost effective to stick with a regular 5lb cylander since it wouldn't cost much more to fill and will last significantly longer.

 

[rachpreach]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7768318998&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1
should i get this??

 

[Friendly]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7768318998&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
should i get this??

That is what I bought not too long ago. It's a very good deal I would recommend getting it.

I currently have a check valve right before the reactor so water cannot push back into the bubble counter BUT now the CO2 in the airline needs to build up enough pressure itself to push through the check valve. This causes a new problem where when it turns off, the excess pressure in the top of the bubble counter pushes all of the water out of it and into the excess airline running to my CO2 tank. When the CO2 switches back on, the pressure has to push all the water back up into the bubble counter before entering the tank - it seems to take 5 or 6 minutes and is working fine although I am going to get a second check valve to stop this from happening.

I'm a little confused. So are you saying that the water from the bubble counter gets pushed back into the regulator from the excess pressure? I wouldn’t that to happen to me because I also plan on using a check valve right before my reactor.

 

[Lonewolfblue]

so your saying that instead of using the calibration liquid for the bubble counter I should use distilled water? Im kinda confused about the calibration liquid and what its used for...

BTW your info is very informative...Does that ebay deal sound good?

The calibration fluid is for calibrating the ph controller, not for putting into the bubble counter. The bubble counter let's you see how much CO2 is being put in the aquarium by counting the bubbles.

 

[Lonewolfblue]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7768318998&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
should i get this??

That is the exact one I use, as well as the link for the reactor I posted earlier. That's one of the best regulators out there for our use.

 

[tbonem91]

I currently have a check valve right before the reactor so water cannot push back into the bubble counter BUT now the CO2 in the airline needs to build up enough pressure itself to push through the check valve. This causes a new problem where when it turns off, the excess pressure in the top of the bubble counter pushes all of the water out of it and into the excess airline running to my CO2 tank. When the CO2 switches back on, the pressure has to push all the water back up into the bubble counter before entering the tank - it seems to take 5 or 6 minutes and is working fine although I am going to get a second check valve to stop this from happening.

I'm a little confused. So are you saying that the water from the bubble counter gets pushed back into the regulator from the excess pressure? I wouldn’t that to happen to me because I also plan on using a check valve right before my reactor.

well I have a very long piece of tubing (6' or so) between my bubble counter and my tank because I had planned on putting my tank in the closet... so the water from the bubble counter drains into the excess airline but never makes it to the regulator. This can be controlled by a second check valve before the bubble counter - which will effectively create 3 areas of differing pressure. The line from the regulator to the bubble counter will stay dry, the bubble counter will stay half full of water and the line from the counter to the reactor will never backflow.

hey, is that PH controller available separate on ebay? and if so, whats the going rate?

 

[rachpreach]

the ph controller on ebay is about 80 bucks....I found this website that offers the combo for cheaper...http://all-aquatics.com/tab1/store/category/8gts/co2_Stuff.html

 

[Friendly]

well I have a very long piece of tubing (6' or so) between my bubble counter and my tank because I had planned on putting my tank in the closet... so the water from the bubble counter drains into the excess airline but never makes it to the regulator. This can be controlled by a second check valve before the bubble counter - which will effectively create 3 areas of differing pressure. The line from the regulator to the bubble counter will stay dry, the bubble counter will stay half full of water and the line from the counter to the reactor will never backflow.

Ohhh I get it now. I have the Milwaukee regulator, solenoid, and bubble counter and they are all connected to each other. There’s no co2 tubing connecting the bubble counter to the regulator. Would the same thing that happened to you, happen to me if I added a check valve?

 

[tbonem91]

well I have a very long piece of tubing (6' or so) between my bubble counter and my tank because I had planned on putting my tank in the closet... so the water from the bubble counter drains into the excess airline but never makes it to the regulator. This can be controlled by a second check valve before the bubble counter - which will effectively create 3 areas of differing pressure. The line from the regulator to the bubble counter will stay dry, the bubble counter will stay half full of water and the line from the counter to the reactor will never backflow.

Ohhh I get it now. I have the Milwaukee regulator, solenoid, and bubble counter and they are all connected to each other. There’s no co2 tubing connecting the bubble counter to the regulator. Would the same thing that happened to you, happen to me if I added a check valve?

no - basically because there is nowhere for the water to go - but I imagine if you are using an active reactor, you could still get water backing up into the bubble counter, so I would place one somewhere between them.

hrmm... $80 for the ph controller... not so sure I can sport that if im getting a new filter, heater and lighting unit

 

[Friendly]

no - basically because there is nowhere for the water to go - but I imagine if you are using an active reactor, you could still get water backing up into the bubble counter, so I would place one somewhere between them.

I will be using an inline reactor that I made which is why I want to use a check valve. Thanks for clearing all that up

 

[rachpreach]

Can anyone suggest a good reactor to use with a pressurized co2 system for my 100 gallon?

 

[Purrbox]

There are several good options available. Do you want something in tank or outside of you tank? Would you prefer to purchase the reactor or to DIY?

 

[rachpreach]

whats the difference in the one inside the tank and outside the tank? I would prefer to purchase....

 

[rich311k]

The one outside the tank is much easier to hide, since it is not in the tank. I have an external inline one. It works great and sits nicely under the tank out of the way. Mine was DIY, but I didn't make it. I bought it from a member here.

 

[rich311k]

Double post. Sorry.