Seeking advice on dry ferts and balancing nutrients

[J rider]

Hello,
I spent most of tonight reading all the posts related to this topic but in the end I became a litttle confused and afraid of doing the wrong thing. What I would like is some summarized advice and I will continue to educate myself too. Thanks

Tank 55 (establ Sept 6)
6 ottos
2 true siamese algae eaters
5 zebra danios
4 clown loaches
50% planted with mostly stemmy plants

Maintanence
Weekly water change, adding kents fert (1/2 reccommended dose)
2x65 watt on about 10 hours
feeding fish every other day

Ammonia=0
Nitrites=0
pH= 7.5
GH= 8

BTW one of the reasons I am writing in is because after about 2 weeks of adding Kents I am experiencing some algae growth. Long stringy (hair algae) is growing the fastest along with very small amounts of black and brown algae. So I want to find a better way to monitor and dose my nutrients. Please help.
What do I need to test for and how do I acquire the kits?
How do I know whether I need CO2 is DIY good for 55?
Should I purchase dry or PMDD from Greg Watson's website?

Thanks!!!!

 

[BrianNY]

Well one thing Jackie. That much light without CO2 is sure to bring on algae. You can safely stagger the lighting with a timer, say 3 hours in the morning and 4 hours at night to help until you add the CO2. JMO

 

[BASSNMAN]

Check out a sight called Chucks Planted Aquarium Pages. He has some great, easy to understand info on ferts ands chems, including a downloadable calculator.

 

[Guest]

Co2 would certainly help this tank. DIY CO2 on a 55g might be more of a PITA than its worth. Pres. CO2 would a much better option.

Running your lights on 3-4, off 3-4, on 3-4, then off for the night, would help a little.

Your Nitra is also low. Generally, you want your Phos/Nitra ratio at 1:10. If you dont have a Phos test kit, it's a must have in a planted tank. They go hand in hand, with one another.

As mentioned, Chuck Gadd's website is an invaluable resourch. While your there, download his planted tank calc and start crunching #'s. Rex Grigg's website is also an excellent site.

It seams a little confussing at first. Dont let dry ferts intemedate you. Thier great, you get far more control useing dry. Continue researching and asking questions. Thats why were all here

 

[XxTitleisTxX]

DIY co2 should be ok with about 2x2L soft drink bottles along with fertilisers. (Seachem excel will help your plants take in carbon dioxide)

 

[malkore]

SeaChem Excel IS a carbon supplement, not a carbon dioxide enhancer.
A friend of mine ran a 55g with DIY and he needed 2-3 1gallon jugs for his CO2 solution...I agree pressurized is the way to go.

I wouldn't go with the dry PMDD from gregwatson.com....rather buy the individual dry ferts KNO3, K2SO4 and KPO4, and maybe some PLantex CSM when your Kent's runs out.

PMDD is kind of a lazy, inaccurate approach. It contains nitrate, phosphate, potassium, trace, sometimes iron and calcium/magnesium.
But, what if your tank doesn't need phosphate this week...the plants aren't using it up...?
Well then you get a phosphate imbalance and start seeing algae.
Best to dose the individual ferts 2-3 times a week, in a controlled manner.

 

[J rider]

thanks and also

Thanks guys,
I will definitely be getting CO2 this week and look into buying the individual dry ferts next week.
In addition to online info can you reccommend a big aquatic gardening book for me to buy?
BTW, siamese algae eaters are awesome, I just bought my 2 and they have the greatest behavior. They are not shy and enjoy sitting on the tops on the plants when they are not busy eating.
The clown loaches found a few snails and went crazy pushing each other out of the way to eat them!
Jackie

 

[malkore]

This book is a good one. Lots of info, but not overly technical: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/A...36/sr=2-1/ref=pd_ka_b_2_1/002-9181679-7946417

For a technical, college course textbook type book, try Diana Walstad's "Ecology of the PLanted Tank"

 

[Swank]

Japonica Shrimp are well worth the (minor) expense...you can just see the algae disappear while they munch away...

 

[J rider]

oily looking film on water

I forgot to mention that a curious characteristic of my tank is that there is a sort of slick on the water. Its irridescent like oil but doesn't have any feel to it. It gets worse day after day in between water changes. By the 6th day the water collects air bubbles on it. I think that has gotten worse since I got more plants or started fertilizing, I can't tell.
What could it be....my fish look very healthy and my plants are growing fine (would be better without algae ; )).
Thanks
Jackie

 

[malkore]

it's just protein buildup. It's normal on all tanks, but since we limit surface agitiation on planted, CO2 injected tanks, its way more noticable.
Mollies will eat this later of 'scum', or you can use clean, unscented, un-dyed paper towels. Lay one on the water surface, then remove it. Repeat a dozen times, and you'll see it diminish.

Technically its not a health issue for the fish or plants, especially if you're doing weekly water changes.

 

[J rider]

oily film

Thanks for replying. I want to trust your hypothesis but I am feeling so worried about this observation. I did not notice it on the pet store tanks. I noticed today that one of the Ottos is looking opaque and not acting normally (over past 3 days). And one of the SAE that I just got has a torn fin and a bit of red on the fin connection to his body. I'll do another water test today or tommorrow. I did a water change added 6 fish, waited 3 days and did another water change. I'm sort of under the impression that any fish that has died before came to my tank sick but I also have an underlying paranoia that something isn't right.
When I get CO2 should I take any precautions to make sure it doesn't change my levels too much and upset my fish.
I wish I had a sick tank ; (.
Thanks again.

 

[Swank]

I have the oil slick too. Have had it for a while...been wanting to find out what it was, but now I know!!! Fish and plants don't seem to mind...