So what "stuff" should I put in my water for plants?

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ScaryFatKidGT

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Joined
Jul 8, 2014
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I have 150g, planning on a fairly heavily planted low tech, I have 3 jungle val and just added 2 crypts from petsmart... will see how they do.

Eco complete for substrate.

I used a bottle for FLuval stuff up but thought it was kind of gimmicky and didn't say what was in it so I got some Flourish and sense I'm not running CO2 I got Flourish exell and I also have some seachem root tabs.

Should I just dose this stuff like it says on the bottle?

After not liking any LED solution I got an Aquatic Life T5 fixture not realizing it does like 75 par at 30", I'm hopping shinning it through my dirty scratched up glass tops with cut some of that. Don't know what else I could of get? 3 single T5 HO fixtures? or maybe a 4-6 T5 NO lights?
 
Hi ScaryFatKidGT,

Eco complete is a bit on the inert side at first, so I would suggest putting root tabs under the crypts (as they are heavy root feeders). Also be careful with the excel dosing with vals. They are known to be sensitive to excel and could melt. I haven't tried it myself, but I have read reports that you can slowly acclimate Vals to the presence of excel by gradually working up the dose to maximum over the course of several weeks. But I think you'd have to be consistent with the excel dosing for this to work.

Excel dosing is mostly good for low light tanks. For medium to high I would strongly suggest pressurized CO2 injection. Some have been able to manage medium to high light tanks with a high level of Glut dosing (generic excel), but at that high of a level, you'll most likely melt the Vals.

You might want to try on taming the light by using a layer of fiberglass window screen between the light and the tank. I believe it will reduce the intensity by 30 to 40%. Also don't run them too long. Maybe 6 to 8 hours max.
 
Hi ScaryFatKidGT,

Eco complete is a bit on the inert side at first, so I would suggest putting root tabs under the crypts (as they are heavy root feeders). Also be careful with the excel dosing with vals. They are known to be sensitive to excel and could melt. I haven't tried it myself, but I have read reports that you can slowly acclimate Vals to the presence of excel by gradually working up the dose to maximum over the course of several weeks. But I think you'd have to be consistent with the excel dosing for this to work.

Excel dosing is mostly good for low light tanks. For medium to high I would strongly suggest pressurized CO2 injection. Some have been able to manage medium to high light tanks with a high level of Glut dosing (generic excel), but at that high of a level, you'll most likely melt the Vals.

You might want to try on taming the light by using a layer of fiberglass window screen between the light and the tank. I believe it will reduce the intensity by 30 to 40%. Also don't run them too long. Maybe 6 to 8 hours max.
Ok thanks, but the Flourish should be fine? I wanted to stick with low-mid light and no CO2 and couldn't decide on an LED light, mainly due to lack of user PAR ratings and not really knowing how bright they would be or not be. I figured T5's are more tried and true but didn't realize Aquatic life T5 HO's were that bright. Idk what other light I could use, a quad or dual fixture wouldn't be enough to cover my tank and 2 dual fixtures would be the same as a quad (70-80 PAR from herehttp://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184368).

Maybe I should be looking at thos catalina T5 HO's or normal T5's?

I might give up and do CO2, how hard is it to measure it? I don't want to kill my fish.

Got another crypt in a little basket not sure if I should take it out or leave it in it.
 
Well the only way to tame t5ho fixtures is to either suspend them or use window screen. That's why I'm a little bias and love dimmable LEDs. But you're right, t5ho's are tried and true. Nothing wrong with them for some people.

Pressurized CO2 is actually a lot easier than it appears to be. Once you jump in and learn it, you'll ask yourself why you didn't do it sooner. The plants respond to CO2 like no other. A wise man once told me it's like the holy grail of plant growth.

I measure my pressurized CO2 with a bubble counter. Depending on the tank size, on average it's good to go with 1 to 3 BPS (bubbles per second). I have a regulator with a solenoid valve which basically allows you to hook it up to a mechanical timer. I have the CO2 kick on 2 hours before my lights turn on (also on a timer), then off 1 hour before the lights.

I also have a drop checker filled with a pH reagent and 4dkh reference solution. It changes colors to give you a good estimate of how much CO2 is dissolved in the tank. Blue = not enough CO2, green = just right, and yellow = too much. That's how you know it won't harm your fish, just keep it out of the yellow range.

Another way to automatically monitor and inject CO2 is through a pH controller. It's not as cheap as the other option. But if you have the money to burn, why not.

Aquatek and Milwaukee make decent entry level regulators. Start there when you're ready.
 
Well the only way to tame t5ho fixtures is to either suspend them or use window screen. That's why I'm a little bias and love dimmable LEDs. But you're right, t5ho's are tried and true. Nothing wrong with them for some people.
This site says I need 8 LMAO 24 Freshwater Aquarium Light 36 Freshwater Aquarium Light 48 Freshwater Aquarium Light
I think I have found what I want in the new not yet released Aquatic Life Maruqis lights, Dual T5 HO with timer and I will get 2. I think my cloudy, white scratched up glass tops are doing a pretty good job I have 4 lights on for 8 hours and 2 for 2 and it seems to be doing alright. My Val's already kind of melted but seem to be growing new leaves? With rounded tips vs the older shredded ones.

Pressurized CO2 is actually a lot easier than it appears to be. Once you jump in and learn it, you'll ask yourself why you didn't do it sooner. The plants respond to CO2 like no other. A wise man once told me it's like the holy grail of plant growth.

I measure my pressurized CO2 with a bubble counter. Depending on the tank size, on average it's good to go with 1 to 3 BPS (bubbles per second). I have a regulator with a solenoid valve which basically allows you to hook it up to a mechanical timer. I have the CO2 kick on 2 hours before my lights turn on (also on a timer), then off 1 hour before the lights.
So only CO2 during the day? Looks like I would need a reg, tank, reactor thingy, bubble counter. Is that really the only way? manually counting bubbles? lol Would a 20oz CO2 tank for paintball work? I don't really want to deal with all the disposables. Most of the stuff I see is for small <40g tanks. Also how do you disolve the CO2 and keep it from just going to the top like with an airstone?

I also have a drop checker filled with a pH reagent and 4dkh reference solution. It changes colors to give you a good estimate of how much CO2 is dissolved in the tank. Blue = not enough CO2, green = just right, and yellow = too much. That's how you know it won't harm your fish, just keep it out of the yellow range.
Yeahhhh you lost me lol

Another way to automatically monitor and inject CO2 is through a pH controller. It's not as cheap as the other option. But if you have the money to burn, why not.

Aquatek and Milwaukee make decent entry level regulators. Start there when you're ready.
Do they have like CO2 probes for reefkeepers and stuff? I thought about getting one to control 3 GLO single T5 HO lights, sense 4 is to many and I would need to spread 3 out to cover the whole tank.

So Fourish I only need to dose once a week? I have been looking into the off brand Excel and stuff, as I didn't realize how much you can go through, it says not to over dose but almost everyone on here is. I think I would probably pick up a 2L jug for $30 off amazon for now.

I'm also wondering about all the other stuff, is flourish the best compared to Fluval and APi plant zone and all that stuff, also what about all the other Seachem stuff, Phosphate, Iron, Potassium, Nitrogen? Amonium nitrate... Isn't that like high explosive, I feel like if I threw the bottle at my wall or dropped it it would blow up lol. I don't want to have to trim my plants every 2 days I basically just want them to help the fish but sense this is a fairly new aquarium I'm sure the plants are using up everything there. I was worried about phosphates from over feeding but I'm pretty sure my plants will use up all of that pretty fast.

The other thing I found was Seachem Equilibrium, is this like a more plant friendly salt? Can it be used in place of APi aquarium salt?

I now have the 3 Val's a crappy Petsmart Java fern that fell apart and has hardly and roots and I'm surprised is alive, a long with 2 crappy Crypt's, a nice LFS big Java fern and a nice big potted Crypt.
 
Your Planted Tank

Hello Scare...

If you have a reasonable number of fish in the tank, feed them a varied diet of flaked, freeze dried and frozen foods and change out half the tank water every couple of weeks or so, you don't need to add supplements.

The fish will provide all the fertilizer the plants need and the frequent water changes will replenish the good minerals that constant filtration removes.

Double check the plants lighting requirements, just to be sure you're giving them what they need and feed the fish and change out the tank water.

Save your money on the fertilizers. In my opinion, they're not worth the money and adding them incorrectly can really mess with the tank water chemistry.

B
 
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